Ball Python

[JAGS]

Helo to everybody I am newbe at this my friend gave me a maltreated BP it was in a 20gl tank with a plastic top and rocks as substrate no lights or thermometer anyway I bough a screen top put some heating lights a water bowl and hide pot for it (I dont know if its a he or a she it did not eat for 3 wk but in Nov.1
it started eating one pinki a wk the problem is it has not done any poop it has eaten 4 mice since and still no poop, can any body give me some advice on this I relly like my new bp but I am worried about the no poop,

[Nate]

no poo for a while is common. they're not really weekly goers.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

First thing you need to make sure you have your husbandry is optimal.

Supply Check list

1 Enclosure

Your enclosure should not be too big the bigger the enclosure the more stress you will cause to your Ball Python, remember that in their natural environment they spend 70 to 80 % of their time in a tight termite mount.

If you get a baby you will only need a 10 gallons to start with and if you chose an adult a 30/40 gallons is all you will ever need. Use the rule of thumb the enclosure should be 2/3 of the length of your Ball Python.

A lot of people chose plastic tubs (Sterilite or Rubbermaid), which allow an easier control of the temperatures and humidity and make Ball Pythons feel secure.

When it comes to plastic tubs here are the sizes you will need according to your Ball Python's size (Remember you will need a drill or solder wand to make holes for airflow)

Up to 500 grams – 15 Quarts

Up to 1500 grams – 32 Quarts

Above 1500 grams – 41 Quarts

No matter which enclosure you chose remember to secure the lid as Ball Pythons are real escape artists.

1 UTH (Under Tank Heater)

Here are some products that will allow you to provide belly heat and achieve the required gradient temperatures in your enclosure: Ultratherm Heat Pads, T Rex Cobra Pads and Flexwatt Heat Tape (Unlike some other they do not stick permanently to the enclosure).

1 Thermostat

Regardless of the device you chose to provide heat you will need a thermostat, this will allow you to maintain proper temperatures and avoid over-heating.

I would highly recommend you to invest in a digital thermostat such as Ranco ETC-111000 and Johnson on the lower end, or Herpstat Digital Proportional Thermostat and Helix on the higher end, they might seem expensive but they are worth it. Keep in mind that if you get a cheap thermostat like the ESU 1 outlet or 3 outlets starting at 25 dollars you will get what you paid for, considering how long your BP will live you will want to invest in something durable, reliable and safe.

2 Hides

Provide one hide on each side of the enclosure. Ideal hides must be dark, tight (All side touching your Ball Python's body) and identical so your Ball Python does not chose between security and thermo-regulation. In my opinion the best hides are ESU/Zilla Creature Cubbyholes.

1 Water Dish

Contrary to what many believe the water dish does not have to be big enough for your BP to soak (Healthy, mite free BP rarely soak).

1 Thermometer/Hygrometer

When it comes to temperatures and humidity you cannot guess you MUST know. (Avoid stick and dial devices as they are not accurate). To get an accurate reading I would recommend a digital device such as Acu-Rite Hygrometer/Thermometer that can be found at Walmart for 12$ or Zilla Terrarium Hygrometer/Thermometer.

Substrate

Here are some substrates that can be used in your BP's enclosure: Newspaper - Paper Towel - Aspen - Repti-bark - Cypress Mulch etc. DO NOT use pine or cedar bedding as they contain phenols that can be toxic to your snake.

Temperatures

You will need to provide your Ball Python with a warm side between 90-94 F (32.5-34.5 C) degrees and a cool side between 80-84 F (27-29 C) degrees.

Humidity

You should provide your Ball Python with a constant 50%-60% humidity level. This level can be increased to 70% during the shedding period if necessary.

Feeding

A lot of care sheets will recommend feeding a prey equivalent to the girth size (widest part of your Ball Python's body) once every 5 to 7 days for young BP and every 7 to 10 days for adults.

Personally I feed a prey slightly smaller then the girth size once a week, in my experience by doing this it allows BP to eat with more consistency.

A Small Rat (4 weeks old) or 2 to 3 mice once a week, will be sufficient even for the largest adults.

Remember if you chose to feed live you must always supervise feeding and never let a prey unattended with your snake.

Do not handle your Ball Python for the next 48 hours following feeding. If handle to soon after a meal this could lead to regurgitation.

As far as not pooping, I am not surprised since you mentioned you feed him Pinkie mice. Those are way to small for a Ball Python, most hatchlings can be started on hoppers and moved to adult mice quickly after that.

You need to feed an appropriated size prey, slightly smaller than the girth size (widest part of your BP’s body).

Even than when fed properly there will not be a set schedule, your BP can defecate once a week, once a month or more.

Also if it is a rescue it is highly recommended that you take your BP to an herp vet for a clean bill of health.

[cutler07]

Helo to everybody I am newbe at this my friend gave me a maltreated BP it was in a 20gl tank with a plastic top and rocks as substrate no lights or thermometer anyway I bough a screen top put some heating lights a water bowl and hide pot for it (I dont know if its a he or a she it did not eat for 3 wk but in Nov.1
it started eating one pinki a wk the problem is it has not done any poop it has eaten 4 mice since and still no poop, can any body give me some advice on this I relly like my new bp but I am worried about the no poop,

wrong section lol