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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran giaach's Avatar
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    yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    So about 2 weeks ago my snake regurgitated a mouse from the prior friday. Being concerned I took her to the vet, had a fecal float test done, and a general examination, both which came back negative for any diseases or parasites(GOOD NEWS). Later that week she started shedding and finished up this past monday. I tried feeding her last night and she wouldn't eat. I'm concerned because she hasnt been like this before, and after almost 2 weeks of no food i would assume she would be hungry. Whats the word yall?

    Shes about 18" and weighs 100g
    1.0 Spider Ball (Kingsley)

  2. #2
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    You need to double check everything, but also remember that between the regurgitation, the vet and the shed this is a lot of stress for a young BP.

    So same thing I posted earlier

    What type of enclosure do you use?
    How big is your enclosure?
    Is your enclosure in a low traffic area?
    What are your temps (cool & warm side)?
    What is your humidity?
    What type of thermometer/hygrometer do you use (dial,stick,or digital)?
    What kind of hides do you provide (log, homemade, cubbyholes etc) and how many do you have?
    Are your hides tight (all side touching your BP's body) and identical?
    How often do you handle your BP?

    The more details the better.
    Deborah Stewart


  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran giaach's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    What type of enclosure do you use? Tank
    How big is your enclosure? 10gal
    Is your enclosure in a low traffic area? Yes, bedroom noone comes in but me
    What are your temps (cool & warm side)? Cool side- 77-80, warm side- 89-92
    What is your humidity? 55%
    What type of thermometer/hygrometer do you use (dial,stick,or digital)? Digital thermo/hydro and digital probe for hot side
    What kind of hides do you provide (log, homemade, cubbyholes etc) and how many do you have? Rock cave (warm side) plastic tupperware blacked out with moss inside (cool side)
    Are your hides tight (all side touching your BP's body) and identical? not identical but she doesnt seem to have a problem with that
    How often do you handle your BP? once everyother day
    1.0 Spider Ball (Kingsley)

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran jdmls88's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    Cold Blooded Asylum-COMING SOON to a Rack Near You

  5. #5
    Registered User Sparky1's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    Yeah pre scent is a good idea, i do it to get all of mine into feed mode every week.
    1.1 pastel balls, 0.1 spider ball, 1.0 green tree python, 2.0 high yellow jungle carpets, 0.1 jaguar jungle carpet, 1.1 hypo-red group boa, 0.1 suriname boa, 1.0 ghost boa, 1.0 hypo boa, 1.0 anery boa, 1.0 red albino, 0.1 het red albino, 0.1 jungle het albino, 0.1 sunglow, 0.2 het albino, 1.1 proven DH snow, 0.1 het anery, 1.0 dh sunglow, 1.1 normal rtb.

  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran giaach's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky1 View Post
    Yeah pre scent is a good idea, i do it to get all of mine into feed mode every week.
    Alright, I'll wait till next week tuesday and try that. Hopefully she takes a meal.
    1.0 Spider Ball (Kingsley)

  7. #7
    BPnet Veteran frankykeno's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    Personally, I'd stop all handling other than what is absolutely necessary for enclosure cleaning until this snake is feeding and gaining weight appropriately. I don't like messing about with any snake under 200 grams if they aren't doing perfectly well.

    Try to make sure your cool side doesn't drop below 80 for her. Stable temps = happy snake = snake that eats.

    The big thing with these babies is that they feel safe and secure enough to hunt. Remember that when they are small their instincts tell them they are prey as much as a predator. This makes them nervy and jumpy and that's all perfectly normal stuff for a young snake. It's all about their survival. Try to tailor your feeding habits around this. Offer the snake food at night (pre-scent the area first), in a VERY quiet environment, in a VERY quiet manner with little fuss or movement around it. Monitor the live feed but don't hover over (triggers the OMG there's a predator over me response from the snake).

    Refusal to eat isn't the problem, it's a symptom of a problem or set of problems. Figure that bit out, the snake is more likely to eat for you.

    Can you describe in detail how you feed or try to feed this snake. Sometimes something in those details is the clue to the refusals.

    Also after a regurge they do need to heal somewhat. When that prey comes up, so does some of the strongest stomach acids on our planet. That burns them inside and even outside if they lay in their own regurge mess. Allowing a snake to properly heal from a regurge is a good thing, rush feeding and you may get another regurge, then a vicious cycle of them.
    ~~Joanna~~

  8. #8
    BPnet Veteran giaach's Avatar
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    Re: yeah yeah Im the regurge guy from two weeks ago...

    Quote Originally Posted by frankykeno View Post
    Personally, I'd stop all handling other than what is absolutely necessary for enclosure cleaning until this snake is feeding and gaining weight appropriately. I don't like messing about with any snake under 200 grams if they aren't doing perfectly well.

    Try to make sure your cool side doesn't drop below 80 for her. Stable temps = happy snake = snake that eats.

    The big thing with these babies is that they feel safe and secure enough to hunt. Remember that when they are small their instincts tell them they are prey as much as a predator. This makes them nervy and jumpy and that's all perfectly normal stuff for a young snake. It's all about their survival. Try to tailor your feeding habits around this. Offer the snake food at night (pre-scent the area first), in a VERY quiet environment, in a VERY quiet manner with little fuss or movement around it. Monitor the live feed but don't hover over (triggers the OMG there's a predator over me response from the snake).

    Refusal to eat isn't the problem, it's a symptom of a problem or set of problems. Figure that bit out, the snake is more likely to eat for you.

    Can you describe in detail how you feed or try to feed this snake. Sometimes something in those details is the clue to the refusals.

    Also after a regurge they do need to heal somewhat. When that prey comes up, so does some of the strongest stomach acids on our planet. That burns them inside and even outside if they lay in their own regurge mess. Allowing a snake to properly heal from a regurge is a good thing, rush feeding and you may get another regurge, then a vicious cycle of them.
    When you say stable temps is it okay from the temps on the hot side to fluctuate between 90 and 93?

    Also I think since she had a hard time getting the shed of her head she has been a little stressed, that might be the reason she wont eat. She was eating just fine before all this, and her environment has had major improvements since i brought her home. New hides, substrate, lighting and temp control. It might just be all the new changes that have kinda stressed her out. Im not gonna bother her till next week tues when I try and feed again... hopefully that way she gets comfortable and is ready to chomp down some mice.
    1.0 Spider Ball (Kingsley)

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