handling? thawed feeding?

[steve-and-megan]

hey everyone! first time here because as of 2 days ago we became python owners, our first snake. we have many tarantulas and have knowledge of how to keep exotic pets. the snake cage is set up perfect and it seems very comfortable. my question is this; is day or night the best time to handle it? i noticed that during the day, when it is in it's hiding spot ( a cave like burrow rock) and i lift it up, it is calm and once it is out it just seems to play on my arms and is gentle. at night however, when he was out and about, i tried to pick it up and it went into it's burrow and hissed slightly. i let it know i was there before picking it up too, and this was the first time i tried to handle it at night. does anybody have an input on this???

also, what is the best way to feed it thawed mice? megan has a huge problem with feeding it live mice, but that is what it is used to (this was given to me by a co-worker how could no longer care for it, not a pet store). i wish thinking of using long tongs and dragging the mice around the cage to grab its attention. and also should some kind of sent be put on it??

thank you for taking the time to read this, and we're glad to join the many members of this site

[frankykeno]

Welcome to BPNet. If you haven't had a chance to view our BP caresheet, it's a good read, lots of great info there. We also have an excellent search function and loads of great threads in our Husbandry section that can help you as new owners.

Since you've just gotten this snake it's best to not even try to handle it at first. Ball pythons are very shy, very nocturnal snakes that tend to stress out fairly easily so they do require special husbandry/handling. Usually a solid week of no handling, no attempts to feed, just basic cage maintenance is a good thing and allows your new snake to get the lay of the land so to speak. They also do best with two identical hides, humidity about 50-60% and warm side temps 90-92/cool side temps 80-82 (24/7, no need for a night drop).

Usually it's best to stick with the prey type and feeding style the snake is used to for the first 5 or 6 weekly feedings then consider switching over. Example to her that you bought a live feeding snake and it's only fair to the snake to allow it to eat in the only way it knows how to eat. If you have to go directly to f/t prey, tongs or hemostats and a nicely warmed up prey item may work (or they may not). Time to learn the zombie mouse dance/dead rat boogie LOL.

Don't panic if the snake refuses to eat the first time you offer (especially if you switch feeding methods). This snake's used to another home and another owner, it's likely to take awhile to settle in. They are definitely snakes that require a lot of patience.

Pics of the snake and it's enclosure are great!

[steve-and-megan]

thank for replying so quick! i handled it 4 times already, and it already ate a live mouse with no problems, and the setup in it's tank is the tank the owner gave to me, so no setup changes. i'll have some pics later today of the cage/snake thanks again

[shag]

I let mine thaw out to room temperature in the room with snake, actually leave it on a paper towel right on top of its tank and then after an hour or so warm it up with a blow dryer. The smell will drive him crazy just being in the same room, i use a pair of forceps and do a little wiggle but not much more than that. Once he gets a good taste of the sent he'll hit it.

[Blue Apple Herps]

I thaw mine in hot water from the tap. Then dry them off. The first couple of times I had to do the "mouse dance" to get them to eat it. Now all I do is put them in their feeding container and drop the mouse in there and they eat it just fine. I got lucky in that all my bps will take f/t this way.

The biggest thing is to make sure that the mouse is warm. For the first couple of times I would use forceps to do the mouse dance. Don't be frusturated though if he doesn't take it right away or at all. Good luck.