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  1. #1
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    ball python feeding

    I have a new ball python, about 18 inches long, which I purchased captive-bred about 4 weeks ago. I did my research beforehand, and I'm certain the temperatures/humidity/etc are set to reflect everything I've read.

    However, he hasn't eaten in 3 weeks. In fact, every time I place him with a mouse, he seems almost frightened. I was using killed mice, but I've since tried live. He actually began cuddling with the mouse...

    He almost never moves inside his cage. When I handle him, he seems to be curious and active, but once I put him back in his cage he begins running his head against the glass walls until, after 5 minutes or so, he gives up whatever he was doing and proceeds to sit, motionless, until the next time I touch him.

    I'm not at all experienced; is this behavior anything to worry about?


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  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran aaajohnson's Avatar
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    Re: ball python feeding

    Do you have any hides in there for him??


    Neil
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  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran elevatethis's Avatar
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    Re: ball python feeding

    Quote Originally Posted by responsibility

    He almost never moves inside his cage. When I handle him, he seems to be curious and active, but once I put him back in his cage he begins running his head against the glass walls until, after 5 minutes or so, he gives up whatever he was doing and proceeds to sit, motionless, until the next time I touch him.
    Its completely normal for a ball python to find a place in its enclosure that it likes and stay there. As a matter of fact, a ball python that roams its cage constantly is usually doing so as a result of some stressor in its environment.

    First, you'll want to check your temperatures using a reliable thermometer. Stick-on pet store thermometers aren't worth the plastic that they're made of - get a digital thermometer. You are shooting for 82-84 on the cool side and 92-94 on the warm side. Ball pythons that are too cold usually don't have much of an appetite.

    Make sure you have more than one hide, at least one on both sides of the cage, and make sure that the snake can fit into those hides without much room to spare - ball pythons are much more comfortable feeling "crammed" than having a lot of space.

    Also, make sure that you are not handling the snake AT ALL until you get him feeding. Handling can be very stressful to a ball python getting acclimated to its new surroundings, which may be another cause of the lack of appetite you are experiencing.
    -Brad

  4. #4
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    Re: ball python feeding

    thanks for your replies.

    I have the cage set up with the two hides on both sides of the cage, and I use my digital multimeter to measure the temperature ( I just have the lead hanging into the cage) - it's very accurate. I'm certain that the temperatures are alright, and the hides are clean, tight, and concealing.

    I think it may be the handling. The longer he's gone off eating I've gotten more nervous and have been poking around his cage more often. I think I'll just leave him to get acclimated for a while and hope he gets hungry.

    Is this period of a fast anything to be worried about in particular? I've read that it's generally only a problem if they start losing signiticant amounts of weight, but is that likely to start happening in four/five weeks?

    Some I've spoken to have suggested I consider force-feeding but, especially if the problem's stress, I'd rather avoid that.

    Thanks again.

  5. #5
    Registered User digcolnagos's Avatar
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    Re: ball python feeding

    I'm somewhat new to this, having owned my BP for six months, so anyone feel free to correct me. That said, from what I've read (and I've read most everything I can find on BPs) force feeding is a really, really, really, really bad idea.

    Three weeks isn't long to go without food for a BP, especially when moving into a new home. Mine went about a month before he started eating again after I got him (part of that was due to shed) and he's now a total pig. Has it ever eaten for you? If it did once, then stopped, it would be a more significant issue, I would think. You're right to leave him alone and allow him to acclimate. That should help.

    A question about your temps. Be sure you're measuring the temperature at ground level on each side as opposed to the ambient air temperature. 92-94 on warm side, ground level; 82-ish on cool side.

    As somone else said, your snake's behavior sounds completely normal. Just be patient. And finally, whatever it was eating when you got it should be continued, whether it accepts the offering at first or not. BPs are creatures of habit, so switching from PK to live to F/T might be confusing for it. If it were mine, I'd pick a day and a time and offer weekly on that day at that time. Your odds are probably better at night. Give it lots of privacy--BP's can be shy eaters. If using F/T or PK, try leaving it in the enclosure with the snake for a few hours before giving up. If using live, though, don't let the prey alone with the snake.

    And do not force feed.

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