UTH (belly heat) Please help

[Kojak]

I recently have second guessed myself at my Ramses' setup. I have him in a 30"x12"x12" glass tank with a red heat lamp to warm the hot side during the day and a reptile blacklight for night time use. He's just a little guy still, at a 141 grams and about 22". I put the UTH on the end of the cool side and have it all controlled with timers and a rheostat on the heat lamp. My temps are near perfect from what I have read: 90-92 on the warm side during the day, 84-86 on the cool side. 80-81 on the warm side at night, 77-78 on the cool side. I also monitor the upper end of the warm side, and it stays about 5-6 degrees warmer than down low, so if he wants to bask, it is warmer as he goes higher.
My UTH is on the end of the tank, however, not below. I did this because that was the manufacturer's recomendation (Zoo-Med UTH). It said to use the UTH as a secondary heat source and not the primary.
When I take my litttle guy out from his warm hide, he is always nice and warm, evenly throughout his body. So should I change my set up? Do snakes need the underneath heat for digestion like iguanas or something??? Any input would really set my mind at ease!

[tigerlily]

You do not want to have your temperatures drop at night. For nonbreeding snakes, it's best to keep temps stable 24/7.

Tanks can be difficult to heat, and heating from the side is difficult and inefficent since heat rises. Your best bet would be to get a UTH (under tank heater) under your warm side.

Also be careful with the heat lamps, as they can result in thermal burns if not monitored closely.

[jason221]

How's the humidity in the tank? It should be 50-60%.

[tmlowe5704]

also, that red heat light is okay to use 24/7

[Kojak]

Thanks all. Temps are easily maintanable at a constant if I so desire. Humidity stays between 51 and 54 percent depending on relative humidity outside of the tank.
This is all due to the way I customized the lid I'm using. it is a frame from what used to be an all screen top. I removed the screening, and replaced 2/3 with 3/4 inch plywood. I drilled lots of ventilation holes. On the other 1/3 (the warm side) I used 3/4 inch plywood and cut a whole roughly just less than the size of the frame and covered it with screen.
No risk of burns. I have the heat lamp on a rheostat and it is a good 6 to 8 inches from the screen.
Thanks for all the input. So does anyone know if I go with this set up, if putting the UTH under the tank is a must??

[tmlowe5704]

Thanks all. Temps are easily maintanable at a constant if I so desire. Humidity stays between 51 and 54 percent depending on relative humidity outside of the tank.
This is all due to the way I customized the lid I'm using. it is a frame from what used to be an all screen top. I removed the screening, and replaced 2/3 with 3/4 inch plywood. I drilled lots of ventilation holes. On the other 1/3 (the warm side) I used 3/4 inch plywood and cut a whole roughly just less than the size of the frame and covered it with screen.
No risk of burns. I have the heat lamp on a rheostat and it is a good 6 to 8 inches from the screen.
Thanks for all the input. So does anyone know if I go with this set up, if putting the UTH under the tank is a must??

yes

[Kojak]

Why? My snake is receiving enough heat on the warm side both during the day , and at night. The heat being generated from above actually warms his hide and branch, and he often basks on top of them. Do snakes require belly heat for digestion. I kept Green Iguanas for 7 years and I know that they DO require a direct source of heat to activate bacteria in the stomach that aid in digestion. Are snakes similar in this way? If not, then why is it a must for them to receive a heat source from directly below?
Not trying to argue, I just want to understand. At the same time I have nearly optimal temps and humidity, with the exception of wether or not to have a UTH mounted underneath.

[Kojak]

Also, why would you not have a slight drop in temps at night to simulate the natural changes between day and night?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but for breeding don't you gradually drop the OVERALL temperature ranges and at the same time decrease the amount of day light hours while increasing the amount of darkness all to simulate the winter months? After which you reverse the process to simulate the coming of Spring, all of this to bring females into season?
Just trying to learn all I can folks, and make my Ramses as comfortable and healthy as possible.

[recycling goddess]

you want your temps in the warm hide to be 90-92 - not the temps around your warm hide.

that's why you need the UTH to be mounted underneath.

[tmlowe5704]

Also, why would you not have a slight drop in temps at night to simulate the natural changes between day and night?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but for breeding don't you gradually drop the OVERALL temperature ranges and at the same time decrease the amount of day light hours while increasing the amount of darkness all to simulate the winter months? After which you reverse the process to simulate the coming of Spring, all of this to bring females into season?
Just trying to learn all I can folks, and make my Ramses as comfortable and healthy as possible.

Are you breeding? If not, then there is really no need to drop temps or simulate winter. This will cause many snakes to go off feed and it is not necessary. You say it is to try and simulate nature, but is being in an enclosure and having an appropriately sized prey dropped in front of you every week natural?