Debating where to go from here (heating)

[Ginevive]

I have our rack set up with the Sterilite tubs.. melamine housing.. all good. I am using the Zoomed pads on the rheostat dimmers, and all is dandy in the temperature aspect of things.. BUT I hate sliding the tubs in/out while the pad catches on the bottom shelf. It is creating a bunch of scratches in the melamine from the pad sliding, and it makes things very difficult when replacing tubs after cleaning or removing a snake.
Any advice on where to go with heating elements? I am hesitant to go w/ FW because, well, it is also an UTH and I am sure the same thing would happen.. also, I am leary about any under-tub heat really, afraid it could melt something while we aren't home, as it has no "outlet" for the heat and I would think the heat could build up in between it, the tub, and melamine.
So how about heat cable, or heated tiles? Anyone ever use these, and have any advice or experience to share? I was also considering getting FW and making it into a back-heat setup..

[Regal Boids]

Flexwatt is alot thinner than the average heatpad and there are no problems with my rack when I slide the tubs in and out. I would try it. I have not heard of heated tiles. IMO I wouldnt try heat cable, You would have to router a channel for it in the melamine. If the flexwatt is on a thermostat it wont melt anything unless the thermostat fails wich rarley happens with good brands! just my 2cents

[Ginevive]

Hm.. I am liking the FW after researching a little, but i am still so paranoid about something melting the tubs.. I am a newbie to tubs after using tanks for so long, which could not melt.. but yes, the FW is alot thinner after looking into it.

[Regal Boids]

The flexwatt will not melt the tubs if controlled with a thermostat, a reliable one that is!

[Kizerk]

i would trust flexwatt as long as it's hooked up to a good thermostat

[piranhaking]

also, you mentioned the heat pad scratching the rack? I know that with flexwatt, it is not attached to the tub, and doesnt move when the tub is slid. I dont see any reason not to stick the pads to the shelf too.

[Ginevive]

FW seems like a good choice. I don't have many extra funds at this point, but my birthday is in January, and I think I will just tell my family/friends that what I want, is fundage for snake-cage heat.

[TekWarren]

I've had my racks built with an extra 1/8 gap. I setup the FW directly on the shelf and then I put in a 1/8 particle material (its reminds me of cardboard but its not...can't remember the exact name). Anyway this keeps my FW in place and even helps spread the heat a little better. I didn't like the way the tubs where sliding directly over it and this was an easy fix.

I would also not to worry about FW with a quality controller. Honestly I'd be more worried about those zoomed heat pads that are not on a automated tstat.

[bigballs]

im new to flexwatt and need a bit of help for my new enclosure...

would 4" flexwatt that its running down the back of an enclosure(height) be strong enough to heat it if it is 3'x2'x1'???

should i got to 11"?????

sorry dont mean to steal your thread...

[Adam_Wysocki]

I've had my racks built with an extra 1/8 gap. I setup the FW directly on the shelf and then I put in a 1/8 particle material (its reminds me of cardboard but its not...can't remember the exact name). Anyway this keeps my FW in place and even helps spread the heat a little better. I didn't like the way the tubs where sliding directly over it and this was an easy fix.

I would also not to worry about FW with a quality controller. Honestly I'd be more worried about those zoomed heat pads that are not on a automated tstat.

You're not putting the 1/8 particle material directly over the flexwatt are you? Compressing flexwatt between two surfaces is a bad idea ... be careful.

I've seen bad things happen with setups like that.

Just trying to help.

-adam