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BP Setup
Ok, so to start a little background... Ive been keeping monitors, iguanas, turtles, fish for as long as i can remember. Now im in college and cant take any of my bigger lizards with, me so im looking into getting a BP. My question is about the setup for my eventual BP. The idea is to make a desktop sized vivarium, talking 10/20 gallon aquarium; that provides both the best habitat for the reptile and also looks good too. So far ive been doin my research about BP's in general & i just want to know what the more advanced keepers would recomend for a very nice cage for a single animal. Cost is not really an issue when it comes to setting up the habitat. So hit me with your ideas, setup, everything you would include is what im shootin for here. Thanks
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Re: BP Setup
Welcome to the forums and the wonderful world of ball pythons!
First, a glass tank is going to be difficult to maintain heat and more importantly humdidty. The glass is very sensitive to temp fluctuations and drafts. It CAN be done, but it's a LOT of work. I prefer tubs, but understandably, you want something that can be a nice display piece without compromising the well-being of your new friend.
With that said, since you said cost was not an issue, I'd recommend that you take a look at an Animal Plastics caging system with the belly heat option at the very least. Check their terrestrial cages link and several of our members use the T3 version for their ball pythons.
While I have a glass aquarium, I can't say that I've ever recommended it to anyone, just because of all the daily maintenance that it takes to maintain consistent heat and humidity. I'm a recent convert to the Sterilite tub method of keeping ball pythons and I'm no where NEAR as obsessed with monitoring those as I am with the glass vivs. I think that the Animal Plastics option is probably the best of both worlds - ease of care of a tub with the showcase appeal of an aquarium.
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Re: BP Setup
Ahhh, missed the "everything you would include" bit.
So, first decide on your housing (animal plastics, animal plastics, animal plastics!!) then you want to have at least two hides, one on the warm side, one on the cool side. A water bowl and if there's a lot of floor space still, more hides.
I've learned from the good people here, less is more with ball pythons (less open floor space). They are shy, nocternal animals and they like the safety and security of their hides. Ideally, you want belly heat for the warm side, with temps about 92-94 degrees on that side, and the cool side with temps about 82-84 degrees. Also, an undertank heater (often referred to as a UTH) should be controlled by a thermostat so as not to overheat and burn your new friend. A digitial thermometer/hygrometer like AcuRite (which you can pick up at WalMart for under $12) is preferred over the pet store stick on thermometers/hygrometers - and cheaper!
All the other "stuff" (foilage, etc) is really more for the owner's appeal than for the snake.
We have a really good care sheet here on these boards, if you haven't read it already.
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