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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran frankykeno's Avatar
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    Rack designs...pro's and cons

    Mike and his dad are designing a rack to fit our big sterlite tubs (actually we found a design for CB 110's that almost exactly the same tub sizes...weeeehoooo!) but a few questions have arose....

    What are the differences in building/using an open side/back type rack like say the one Daniel built or the one at the link below, versus a closed in rack like say Boaphile sells.

    I can imagine the more open the rack is the more heat loss you might deal with but also you'd have better ventilation right?

    I've heard some people say that the closed in racks (especially black ones) act like a big hide for the snakes though and some don't even have to provide hides as the rack is so dark.

    If a rack is full enclosed though other than the front what about if you need to replace a flexwatt or something....isn't that more difficult than an open concept rack? Also I'm concerned about high humidity issues and ventilation as Michigan in August is awful and we don't have central air.

    We were thinking to go with this design but perhaps add sides made of heavy grade pegboard to find a sort of middle road between fully open and full enclosed. The back would be open I think to allow for ease of access to the flexwatt wiring.

    http://arbreptiles.com/cages/iris_rack/iris_rack.shtml

    If we wanted to paint the rack and it's sides black, what sort of paint/finish is appropriate and safe?

    Thanks all,

    ~~Jo~~

    P.S. Matt, I'm firing off an email to you shortly to ask about heating for this type of rack....you da man! LOL
    ~~Joanna~~

  2. #2
    BPnet Senior Member daniel1983's Avatar
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    Re: Rack designs...pro's and cons

    I am about to start on a new rack myself.....it will be almost identical to this one...

    http://www.exoticsbynature.com/boarack.html

    ...with a few modifications...the tubs will slide out of the long side instead of short side...i am using 2x4 for the main supports instead of 1x4...i am putting wheels on it...and it will have 5 levels of 41 qt. sterilites and 3 levels of 15 qt. sterilites....

    I just finished up all the sketches of what I want to build and figured out how much it is going to cost me....so I should be getting all the materials next week...then it is time for building....i will be sure to type up a 'how to' and take a bunch of pics during the process
    -Daniel Hill
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  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran TekWarren's Avatar
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    Re: Rack designs...pro's and cons

    Just looking over the plans on that site Daniel...I'm curious how you will keep the humidity up? It looks as though the top of each shelf is just mesh which won't hold any humidity unless of course the whole room is controlled for the environment? I've been making small modifications to my rack, the levels are solid top and bottum. Even though the wood is sealed it seems to still have a negative effect on the humidity in the tubs. Today I put down a layer of stick on tiles top and bottum of one of the levels. I am hoping this will both ease the sliding of the tubs in and out (which it already has) and keep the wood from sucking in any moisture or less escaping the tubs in general. I could just plug some of the holes in the tubs but if the wood is pulling even the slight bit of moisture that is just asking for serious issues that's why I'm starting with the tile.
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  4. #4
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    Re: Rack designs...pro's and cons

    I found vinyl covered pressed board at home depot for $6. Its just like pegboard without the holes, As one side is covered in vinyl that surface would be fairly slick for sliding tubs.


    However as only one side is covered with vinyl i dont know how it would do between layers unless the othher side was painted.

    When we build fishtanks with 2-4 sides being plywood we paint the plywood with swimming pool paint. It keeps the water in so done that way you shouldnt have any worries about wood pulling moisture. Its safe for the fish (after it has thoroughly dried).

    I think the open closed depends upon your humidity. Low humidity (like here in Utah) you want fewer places for it to escape, high humidity you want a fairly open design.

    Its pretty easy to make removable panels. You can set the back up like a door, just recess the hinges for a tight fit. Or you can make tabs that you flip down and over to keep the back panel in place. Either way when you have a problem just open the back and fix it.

    Bdadawg

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