Questions about my daughter's new BP

[rosiegirl]

Hi all,

So happy to find this forum. My 14 year old daughter just got a ball python 2 days ago. She did hours of research about the snakes themselves and what they need so I'm pretty comfortable with her setup.

A few questions, though:

1. We bought the mat heater and thermostat but put it on the side of the glass tank instead of underneath (the instructions seemed to advice against the bottom?). Is that okay? Where do I put the sensor for the thermostat if the mat is on the side? (yes, there is also a ceramic bulb for heat on the top and she has 2 thermometers in their to keep track of the temps on the hot and cool side).

2. Is it okay if the snake hasn't come out for 2 days now? He was fine when he went in and we got him from a reputable place, we just want to make sure that behavior is normal. My daughter is not taking him out of tank for a week and she plans to feed him on Sunday for the first time.

3. Is it okay for the heat lamp on top to always be on?


Thanks everyone! I attached a picture of the tank for reference.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharing

[walzon1]

BP's need belly heat for digestion. Side mounting is no good, ignore the packaging as it is made for many types of reptiles.

Ambient temps really don't matter that much until they go below 70, so no need for any other heating devices besides the heat mat.

I never ever see my BP out unless I take him out. If I did see him out during the day I would immediately think something was wrong. They don't call them "pet rocks" for nothing.

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[Craiga 01453]

BP's need belly heat for digestion. Side mounting is no good, ignore the packaging as it is made for many types of reptiles.

Ambient temps really don't matter that much until they go below 70, so no need for any other heating devices besides the heat mat.

I never ever see my BP out unless I take him out. If I did see him out during the day I would immediately think something was wrong. They don't call them "pet rocks" for nothing.

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I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

[christineho]

Hi all,

So happy to find this forum. My 14 year old daughter just got a ball python 2 days ago. She did hours of research about the snakes themselves and what they need so I'm pretty comfortable with her setup.

A few questions, though:

1. We bought the mat heater and thermostat but put it on the side of the glass tank instead of underneath (the instructions seemed to advice against the bottom?). Is that okay? Where do I put the sensor for the thermostat if the mat is on the side? (yes, there is also a ceramic bulb for heat on the top and she has 2 thermometers in their to keep track of the temps on the hot and cool side).

2. Is it okay if the snake hasn't come out for 2 days now? He was fine when he went in and we got him from a reputable place, we just want to make sure that behavior is normal. My daughter is not taking him out of tank for a week and she plans to feed him on Sunday for the first time.

3. Is it okay for the heat lamp on top to always be on?


Thanks everyone! I attached a picture of the tank for reference.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharing

As Craig said, you'll need a lot more clutter and I personally would move the UTH to...Under the Tank. Just keep it regulated with the thermostat, buy an IR temp gun to read the glass and dial it in. It's also likely that your humidity is way too low based on the screen top. Cover it with foil/something else to help with this.

[Caitlin]

I just want to emphasize that Craiga is giving you good advice. The only time I put a heat mat on the side of the enclosure is when I am dealing with a young arboreal snake that will be spending all of its time out and on elevated perches. That's not the case for a Ball Python, so you'll be providing the best temperature gradient by putting the heat mat on the bottom of the enclosure so that it covers about 1/3 of the floor space. The probe goes on the bottom of the OUTSIDE of the enclosure, sandwiched between the enclosure bottom and the heat mat. You can use foil tape (like HVAC tape that you get on Amazon or at Home Depot) to hold the probe in place. Don't cover the probe tip itself with tape, though!

Be sure that the UTH is connected to a thermostat to regulate temps and prevent burns.

Belly heat is not required for digestion for any snake, but all snakes require appropriate ambient temperatures for digestion, and they need a temperature gradient in their enclosure so that they can choose to be in a warmer area or cooler areas. As Craiga mentioned, a UTH does not affect ambient temperatures. A UTH is used to create a warm spot which will be the warm end of your temperature gradient. IF the ambient temps in the room where the snake is kept never ever go below 75F, then the UTH is all you'd need. Otherwise you will need another heating element like a ceramic heat emitter or a deep heat projector or a bulb. I prefer emitters/projectors because they only emit heat, not light, so you can leave them on 24/7 if need be without stressing your snake with needless light.

If you use a CHE, projector, or bulb, be sure it's on a thermostat as well.

Your tank has a screen top, so you are going to lose humidity like crazy. To maintain the humidity your snake needs, you'll likely need to cover most of the screen top with foil/HVAC tape.

Your new Ball Python is just a baby and needs to feel very safe, enclosed, and secure - and that tank is just too bare and open right now. Add another hide or two; add clutter like fake vines on the ground. For now, you could just crumple up paper towels and put them in there till you get your vines, etc.

Being in the hide is totally normal. Ball Pythons are a shy snake and will often spend almost all of their time in their hides. If they are going to be out and about, it'll be in the middle of the night.

I also agree with Craiga that you should wait till the baby has taken about 3 meals before you handle it. There's nothing more important right now than establishing good husbandry and establishing good eating patterns. Good luck to you guys, and I hope you feel free to ask questions and get support here whenever needed!

[walzon1]

I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

You can disagree with me all you want but please don't quote my post for technicalities. Thanks

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[Spicey]

You should also put feet of some kind on the corners of the tank to keep the undertank heater off the surface of the table or desk that it's on. The little sillicone nubbins that usually come with the heaters are pretty useless, so I'd advise getting some self-adhesive furniture feet pads or something similar.
Good luck with your new boopnoodle!

[Craiga 01453]

You can disagree with me all you want but please don't quote my post for technicalities. Thanks

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Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

[walzon1]

Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

Like I said it's not your comment it's that there was no need to quote me so I have to read your post it's fine for the OP.

I happen to disagree with your post as well I see no need to argue about it like you are trying to.


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[rosiegirl]

Thanks everyone! We are in New York, right outside of the city for weather/temperature reference.

Craiga,

1. I will buy a new heat mat to mount underneath. Can I leave the paper on and just tape it on with aluminum tape?

2. Right now, the warm side is 90 (55% humidity) and the cooler side is 80 (45% humidity). We have two thermostats but I will buy a heat gun, too. (and we can use it before the kids leave for school in the morning!)

3. The heat lamp is on top of the tank but it is not regulated by a thermostat...do we need to add a thermostat to the lamp or will the heating pad be enough? I'm guessing in our New York winters, we'll need the lamp too?

4. Got it on the snake handling, she will hold off!

5. Will add some more hides as well. Do we need a humidity box, too?

I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.