Housing for a single ball python?

[5678]

Hello,
I'm completely new to snakes and I'll be getting a ball python this summer. I've got most of their requirements down but I still need help on deciding on an enclosure.
I've considered

• Glass Tank
• Pros: Cheap, common, allows for easy viewing
• Cons: Doesn't hold temperature and humidity well, top is the only opening
• Wooden Vivarium (DIY)
• Pros: Allows for easy viewing, holds temperature and humidity well, I can add a front opening
• Cons: Can smell bad, I have no woodworking experience
• Premade PVC Enclosure (most likely Animal Plastics)
• Pros: Holds temperature and humidity well, doesn't smell, front opening
• Cons: I don't like the big bar in the front that most PVC enclosures have, expensive (?)

And for backgrounds, I've considered

• Coconut Fiber Carpet & Insulating Foam (SerpaDesign's snake vivarium video)
• Pros: Looks good, holds heat well, can be removed
• Cons: I heard coconut fiber carpet will rot, chance of foam and coconut getting wet
• Silicone & Foam Background
• Pros: Easily customizable, works with wood decorations
• Cons: Cannot be changed out, more difficult to work with, takes longer to make

I will be keeping live plants so a material that dries quickly (both enclosure and background) would be preferred. I'm planning for a climbing plant on the backdrop too, so I would need a material that's easier for them to grow on.
Thanks!

[JodanOrNoDan]

I don't do any of this stuff. Mine are in tubs with paper substrate.

Pros
Cheap
Easiest to maintain.

Cons
Ugly

That said, Ball pythons + live plants is a loosing battle. They will destroy them. Also keep in mid that they will defecate all over anything that you put in with them. Any type of wood is going to absorb the pee and be very hard to clean.

[Craiga 01453]

I've been using glass with success for almost 20 years. It's not hard. It just takes a little tweaking to set up, but there are plenty of tricks. Once set up and dialed in its easy, honestly.

That being said, I'm slowly upgrading to PVC caging and Radiant Heat Panels. Why? They're even easier. No lamps. I can stack them and consolidate them. More snakes in less room. No more glass enclosures all over the place.
But....until you get more snakes that won't be an issue...

There is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with glass. Millions of people are using it with success. Some folks will say glass stinks, but honestly, it's really easy after a few simple tweaks.

I'd be happy to share any info you'd like if you decide to go glass...

[5678]

I don't do any of this stuff. Mine are in tubs with paper substrate.

Pros
Cheap
Easiest to maintain.

Cons
Ugly

That said, Ball pythons + live plants is a loosing battle. They will destroy them. Also keep in mid that they will defecate all over anything that you put in with them. Any type of wood is going to absorb the pee and be very hard to clean.

Considering that it's my first snake I think I'm going to go with an enclosure type that's easier to display. If I decide to expand my collection then I'll probably have majority tubs/rack systems, they're a lot better for saving space and cleaning.

- - - Updated - - -

I've been using glass with success for almost 20 years. It's not hard. It just takes a little tweaking to set up, but there are plenty of tricks. Once set up and dialed in its easy, honestly.

That being said, I'm slowly upgrading to PVC caging and Radiant Heat Panels. Why? They're even easier. No lamps. I can stack them and consolidate them. More snakes in less room. No more glass enclosures all over the place.
But....until you get more snakes that won't be an issue...

There is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with glass. Millions of people are using it with success. Some folks will say glass stinks, but honestly, it's really easy after a few simple tweaks.

I'd be happy to share any info you'd like if you decide to go glass...

Tell me all about it!

[Moose84]

What age snake are you getting and where is that snake currently being housed? I will say this. I made the mistake of moving a subadult from a rack to glass and he hunger struck me. He's going right back to a rack as this is obviously where he feels more comfortable.

Now the flip side to this. We also have a BP who we got young who went from a 10g to now a 20g glass and we have had ZERO issues whatsoever.. He eats, sheds and acts completely normal. Our 3rd (female) has never been out of a tub and I don't plan on making the mistake of trying to display her as she feeds fine.

Just my two cents is and what I have learned. I am not a proponent of either as I like the glass enclosure and I also like the convenience of tubs.

Hope this helps..

[5678]

What age snake are you getting and where is that snake currently being housed? I will say this. I made the mistake of moving a subadult from a rack to glass and he hunger struck me. He's going right back to a rack as this is obviously where he feels more comfortable.

Now the flip side to this. We also have a BP who we got young who went from a 10g to now a 20g glass and we have had ZERO issues whatsoever.. He eats, sheds and acts completely normal. Our 3rd (female) has never been out of a tub and I don't plan on making the mistake of trying to display her as she feeds fine.

Just my two cents is and what I have learned. I am not a proponent of either as I like the glass enclosure and I also like the convenience of tubs.

Hope this helps..

I don't have my snake yet, but I'll be getting one that's about 3 weeks old from a local breeder. I think the breeder houses them in racks but because they're so young I don't think it will affect their transition too much.
I would prefer to be able to leave the snake right into the adult enclosure (40 gallons) but I don't want them to get hurt or lost, so I might keep them in a 10 gallon until they're big enough.

[Moose84]

Yeah he or she won't do well at all going right into a 40 gallon from a hatchling rack if I'm hearing you right... the 10's are inexpensive and in my situation the snake did excellent coming from a rack as a baby.. Older ones, not so much..

[JodanOrNoDan]

I don't have my snake yet, but I'll be getting one that's about 3 weeks old from a local breeder. I think the breeder houses them in racks but because they're so young I don't think it will affect their transition too much.
I would prefer to be able to leave the snake right into the adult enclosure (40 gallons) but I don't want them to get hurt or lost, so I might keep them in a 10 gallon until they're big enough.

Advice... Unless you are very experienced with this species, the actual age for taking possession of a baby is not important. What is important is that it has eaten a least three meals in a row on its own. Mine are not sold until they do this. Some people will sell them right out of the egg. It is possible, but highly unlikely that a baby has eaten three normal sized meals in three weeks from hatching. I have never had one eat until after the first shed which normally takes a week to happen.

Baby balls should be kept in a shoe box sized plastic enclosure until you have it eating. Once that happens you can think about moving it to its permanent enclosure.

[Ax01]

i understand the desire that many peeps wanna put their baby BP's right into their forever enclosure b/c they want to save money from progressing enclosure size as it grows or b/c it looks pretty or whatever. after all, baby BP's in the wild have the largest enclosure. but in captivity, BP's are quite finicky. u could put it in a 40 or a 10, but u also gotta be prepared to put it is a 6quart shoebox tub if the baby proves to be difficult. the smaller enclosure will help it needs for husbandry and security alot better until it's established.

[Bogertophis]

Totally agree with getting a feeding record (3 or more times prior to you taking possession of ANY kind of snake)...that's really important, especially for your
first snake, that you not buy one "right out of the egg".

I also agree that a smaller enclosure will work best at first for a hatchling...they are instinctively shy, as predators of all kinds take them easily in the wild.

Whatever kind of cage you decide on, be sure to have it up & running (heat controlled by thermostat) for a week or more prior to your snake moving in; that way, if heat & humidity need tweaked, you aren't stressing the new snake, and if you have to buy/order something, you need time to do that.

When you get the snake, do not handle it...let it be a snake first while it settles in & has time to eat at least 3 times for you, easily & at normal intervals (weekly). There is no rush to 'tame' a baby snake, but if you handle too soon, they may refuse food & not do well. Eating is "job #1"

Be sure that you are watchful for mites for at least the first month (eggs take that long to hatch out): don't underestimate mites, they can & do kill snakes.
This is also why it's best to keep the initial enclosure simple: white paper towels for substrate, plastic hides, water bowl...no plants or wood/fiber decor,
because you'll just have to throw them out if mites come with your snake, & they make it harder to see any such health issues. That's really what's important.