Alternative ways to heat a tank

[MeerkatLyndz]

I've got a large glass tank that I've been housing my ball python in since I got her this summer. And already we've gone through two dome light fixtures because of the high humidity causing shorts in them. I'm desperate to find an alternate solution that can keep up with the size of the tank (55 Gallon long) and help keep humidity up. What would be anyone's suggestion? The lid is grated but have most of it covered in tin foil and a moist blanket (again keeping humidity in and up). I don't want to keep my girl in a tub after she's gotten used to her spacious surroundings!

[KevinK]

It depends on what your budget is....

A lot of people like myself who were sick of replacing bulbs and dealing with humidity problems in tanks (for adult BP's) will order an animal plastics T8 or T10, and run a Radiant Heat Panel (RHP) for the heat source along with a reliable thermostat.

AP T8 - $165 + $48 shipping
RHP - $120
Therm- $100ish

Figure on $450 at the worst for the complete setup, some people like to add flexwatt underneath as well, but I personally don't find it to be 100% necessary. Just a very nice addition. It's like a Chevy vs a Cadillac comparison haha.

I haven't ordered from them in year but I've heard Animal Plastics has quite the waiting list now for their cages, so keep that in mind. They're busy for good reason however...

What I just listed is the care free... but expensive option for sure, but it's a proven one and a lot of people like it. I'm going on nine years of the above setup without having a SINGLE hiccup. No bulb replacement needed, no covering of your cage, no damp/wet substrate needed to keep humidity (paper products work fine in AP cages, as they hold humidity VERY well from your water bowl alone)

[MeerkatLyndz]

What about keeping the original tank and such but using just the RHP under it? I can't do that entire big setup right now but I can do the heat source for 120 pretty easily... Think that would work while having the lid covered in tin foil?

OH! And I forgot to mention I have a small bamboo humidifier in the tank that runs on a timer off and on through the day. Which is my biggest source of extra humidity and what I think shorted the lamp out. But it's so amazing at keeping up with this dry winter we are having I don't wanna give it up.

[SquirmyPug]

Are you sure you need the humidifier? Since it's causing issues with your lights it sounds like you might have the humidity a bit too high.

If you can afford a RHP I would recommend it. I use one on both of my glass tanks. I have it on top of the screen and cover the rest to hold humidity/ heat. I like to use the RHP to get the ambient temp where I want it and still use an UTH for the hot spot. It holds humidity well so I only need to spray with water a few times a week.

If you decide to get a RHP you will need a thermostat to go with it, so it's not just the $120. (If you set it up the way I do with an additional UTH). Lots of people use only a RHP though so you will just have to adjust the thermostat until you get the hot spot you want plus the correct ambient temperatures.

[Craiga 01453]

Honestly, 55 longs aren't good for BPs or most terrestrial species. I have 2 of them sitting empty in my basement. The height combined with the narrow 12" depth just doesn't work.

[Bogertophis]

UTH (regulated, of course) under half to 2/3 of tank, & maybe a CHE over-head.

Not so sure that humidity caused your over-head lights to short & fail...were they both the same brand? try a better one...they are often not made well.

[MeerkatLyndz]

Craigfrechette:: I hope you aren't suggesting a tub/rack setup. Because I'm not going with anything smaller. While I'm not 100% sure it's a long and not just a regular 55 gallon, I haven't noticed my ball having any trouble handling it one way or the other. She eats like a champ. No bad sheds. And constantly find her chilling on one of the magnetic ledges or wound around the top of a large fake stump near the top (away from heat source).

Squirmypug:: Actually the humidifier was the final thing I tried after constant misting, wet towel over half the lid with tin foil around the other half, and still not getting it above 40%. Keep in mind though that's only been this winter. During the summer it was a heck of a lot easier as it wasn't so dry (even with 100+f degree Temps outside). So yes... For the winter and fall it is absolutely needed.

Bogertophis:: Both times when this has happened this winter (didn't happen all summer at all) there was a good bit of concensatiom and general wet under the dome around the light. Both times happened after upping the humidity for a shed (which is happening now as well)

[MeerkatLyndz]

Would it be possible to side mount a large 24 watt UTH on a thermostat (maybe on the longer side of the tank on the backside) to heat and help with gradient Temps? I saw on the description of the heat pads I use for my smaller baby corn snake tubs/tanks that they could be side mounted and that's got me ?????

[Craiga 01453]

Would it be possible to side mount a large 24 watt UTH on a thermostat (maybe on the longer side of the tank on the backside) to heat and help with gradient Temps? I saw on the description of the heat pads I use for my smaller baby corn snake tubs/tanks that they could be side mounted and that's got me ?????

I didn't say anything about tubs. I just said that a 55 isn't a good choice for terrestrial species. I use glass tanks as well, i jyst choose a proper tank wurh proper dimensions based on species. They're not one-size-fits-all. With terrestrial species the height of the tank is a waste. You can go with a 40 breeder and it would make a much better enclosure despite the smaller size in overall volume. It's all about floor space for terrestrial species.

As for a side mounted UTH... It's called and UNDER tank heater for a reason. They are not designed for ambient temps. They are designed solely to provide a hot spot.

[Hannahvh]

This is maybe my 3rd recommending this stuff to someone because I love it that much- SPHAGNUM MOSS!!!! This stuff REALLY helps with humidity, especially when the tank is being dried up by external heating sources. It's about $10 for a big box (don't use the whole thing at once- it is VERY humid stuff) from Petco/Petsmart, it has instructions on the box, but basically you soak the moss and place patches of it throughout the tank. When they first dry up, you can mist them a couple times, but eventually just replace the patches with fresh moss when they are TOO dry. Your tank does sound a little large, but if you like it that way, you can try playing around with the husbandry to make sure its properly humid.

You can also try a different substrate that holds humidity better (not sure what you already have)- but I use ForestFloor Cypress Mulch and it's great. I've also heard coconut husk is great as well. Maybe try mixing some together to get the best results! Once the humidity is holding, I find a LARGE UTH (make sure you aren't using the small ones for that big of a tank) for belly heat and an overhead heat lamp to keep the ambient temps up, but I've never had one bug out for too much humidity. I use ZooMed Deep Dome fixture ($20), Zoomed lamp stand so it is elevated off top of tank ($25), and I'll buy a 4 pack of the bulbs so I don't have to keep ordering when they burn out.

Also, if you aren't already, try using a digital hygrometer to monitor the humidity, especially during the drier periods as they are more accurate! Hope this helps!

I saw your note about attaching the heatpad to the side of the tank- I have heard of people doing that, but I've heard they just end up falling off or not working as well as you'd like, so I've never tried. Not sure , though!