Is it possible that a ball python might WANT to be held all the time??

[BPmom]

So my fairly new (about 2-3 months) 6-7 year old ball python has a habit of being more active when I come home from work. I’ll come in, he’ll be calm, and when I walk by his tank, he starts moving all around his cage. Smelling every inch of the cover, climbing over the humidity gage, constantly following me around the room. It’s not what Iv read online about ball pythons, but it’s as if he’s telling me to hold him. When I open the cover, he sits there. Doesn’t move, doesn’t try escaping or reaching to the top... he just waits. And when I do pick him up, he curls around my arm and holds on tight (he even tightens when trying to pass him on to my fiancé who will have full support and handle of him, yet he tightens harder like he doesn’t want me to let him go.) I am, well, WAS deathly afraid of snakes until this guy came along and seems to prefer me over anyone else in the house. When I pick him up, he won’t let me go. When someone else is holding him, he bravely will try to stretch his body towards me.

anyways, since he’s still kind of new and Iv never handled, let alone owned a snake before him, I do get a bit nervous when he starts trying to travel up my arm, like towards my face. It’s 85 degrees out so I don’t wear gloves or sleeves. I know your not supposed to let a pet snake near your face or anything in front of his face but he always tries coming straight up my chest or makes his way up my arm. When we first got him, I have seen him scare himself by hitting the back of his neck on his own body and he turned and bit himself twice! Again, he seems comfortable with me enough with picking him up and holding him, but is it okay to let a semi-new snake climb towards my face? Do I move him away or just let him explore ny head/neck? I’m nervous about him scaring himself again or accidentally striking my neck.

He also does does not like when I put him back, he tries to slide out of the tank up my arm again. Is it possible he wants to explore or is there another reason he’s acting like this?

[redshepherd]

Unfortunately, there is no snake that wants to be held all the time, so I'd caution against anthropomorphizing your snake and deciding what he might want/not want according to our mammalian emotions. Overhandling or simply being outside of their enclosure for too long can cause stress and illness. This is why there are humidity and temperature requirements for their enclosures, so they don't get sick.

My active snakes become more active when I come into the room. They sense movement and mostly want food if this happens LOL.

When you put them back and they try to slither up your arm- just stick his head toward a hide entrance, and he will go in.

when you try to give them to someone else or put them down and they tighten around the wrist- it's an instinct where they're trying not to fall off what they currently have a grip on. They don't understand that you want them to move onto another object, so they just feel like they're being pried off/tipped over.

When they tighten around your wrist during handling, it's because they feel like they might fall.

[Indy]

It's a snake. If it was big enough it would kill and eat you. Don't personify it, don't expect it to actually be anything more than it is. Reptiles deal solely in and on the most base instincts.

They will get used to being handled, but they don't WANT to be handled.

[bcr229]

Most snakes do not want to be put down into tanks, which is why I don't use them with my larger ones; it's a battle stuffing them in there. When they are stressed they like to go up.

With a front-opening enclosure getting them in is easy. Simply position the snake's head just underneath the opening and they are happy to climb up and in under their own power.

[dakski]

I tend to agree. Snakes do not "like" being handled, or really, "like" or "enjoy" anything. No frontal lobe, only a reptilian brain.

My BP and Corn Snakes do fine being handled. However, when I put them back, it's usually straight to a secure hide!

Behira, my BCI is the odd one. When I put her back, half the time she crawls back out and I have to push her back in. Often, when I close the doors (front opening) to her tank, she watches me for a while and even puts her nose up against the acrylic. It looks like she's begging to come out, but she's really not. She, out of all the snakes I have, seems to "enjoy" (using that term very loosely) being out. She appears more curious and makes no effort to run and hide when put back. However, she doesn't hide half the time anyway. She really has little to no fear. So who knows.

One theory, which I don't think has been addressed, is that if her tank/enclosure isn't set up properly - with proper temps, humidity, etc. and a warm side and cool side with identical hides (proper husbandry), she may appear active because she is uncomfortable.

I think that would have more to do with her activity level than not wanting to go back. However, we want to make sure she's comfortable and feels safe in her "home."

Do you know hot side/hot spot temps, ambient temps, and cool side temps? Are there identical hides on both sides? How big is she, what type of tank are you using, and how big is the tank (length, width, and height)? Do you know what the humidity levels are? What is she eating and how often?

If you can provide that info, that would help rule out any issues with diet, husbandry, etc.

Additionally, 90% of bites happen in the tank with generally calm/docile animals (feeding strikes or defensive strikes). If she's letting you pick her up and not moving in darty motions, you are probably fine. Another thing is a happy snake is generally not super tense and has a happy tongue. Happy tongue = slow tongue flicks that are frequent, but not fast, and the tongue goes out all the way and moves around (up, down, sideways, or even circular motions). That's a I am taking things in tongue. A short (only partially out), quick, straight in and out, tongue, can often mean either, "is that food," or, "I am scared."

Learn to read your snakes tongue and body language. A relaxed body and "Happy Tongue" is a recipe for a good handling session and nothing much to worry about. Remember, even a relaxed snake can grab you pretty well to ensure they don't fall. Don't confuse that with a totally tense body and neck of the snake.

Below is a picture of my baby scaleless sunglow motley corn (she's tiny - 9G - and only 2 months old). It looks like she has multiple tongues because I took this with an iPhone and it kept the shutter speed normal, not high. However, you can see that the tongue comes out far, and moves all around - flicking up and down and left and right. That's a happy tongue. It's the same with all snakes really. My BP, BCI, and other corn snake, show the same tongue when relaxed and exploring/taking things in.

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is Behira, my female Ghost BCI, on my arm, with a happy tongue. It's a better shot here, so you can't see all the movement, but you can see the tongue is all the way out and pointed downward in the shot. If she were hungry or defensive, the tongue would come out half as far or less and be quick and the tongue movements not far apart.

Hard to tell from the picture, but aside from holding my arm so as not to fall, she's very relaxed and although reaching, her neck and head are not tense. Tense usually means "S" position, stiff, especially head/neck area, and quick and short tongue movements. If you are not seeing that, I really wouldn't worry. You are probably much more worried about the snake then she is of you!

[IMG][/IMG]

[Bogertophis]

So my fairly new (about 2-3 months) 6-7 year old ball python has a habit of being more active when I come home from work. I’ll come in, he’ll be calm, and when I walk by his tank, he starts moving all around his cage. Smelling every inch of the cover, climbing over the humidity gage, constantly following me around the room. It’s not what Iv read online about ball pythons, but it’s as if he’s telling me to hold him. When I open the cover, he sits there. Doesn’t move, doesn’t try escaping or reaching to the top... he just waits. And when I do pick him up, he curls around my arm and holds on tight (he even tightens when trying to pass him on to my fiancé who will have full support and handle of him, yet he tightens harder like he doesn’t want me to let him go.) I am, well, WAS deathly afraid of snakes until this guy came along and seems to prefer me over anyone else in the house. When I pick him up, he won’t let me go. When someone else is holding him, he bravely will try to stretch his body towards me.

anyways, since he’s still kind of new and Iv never handled, let alone owned a snake before him, I do get a bit nervous when he starts trying to travel up my arm, like towards my face. It’s 85 degrees out so I don’t wear gloves or sleeves. I know your not supposed to let a pet snake near your face or anything in front of his face but he always tries coming straight up my chest or makes his way up my arm. When we first got him, I have seen him scare himself by hitting the back of his neck on his own body and he turned and bit himself twice! Again, he seems comfortable with me enough with picking him up and holding him, but is it okay to let a semi-new snake climb towards my face? Do I move him away or just let him explore ny head/neck? I’m nervous about him scaring himself again or accidentally striking my neck.

He also does does not like when I put him back, he tries to slide out of the tank up my arm again. Is it possible he wants to explore or is there another reason he’s acting like this?

Welcome to the forum & to keeping snakes. Snakes are different from other pets in that even if bred in captivity, they are not 'domestic' animals. It takes a while to really
interpret their actions correctly, especially since this is your first, and it's not always what it seems. They cannot directly tell us what they need, so the better we are at
figuring out what their behavior means, the better care we can give them so they stay healthy, and also, the more likely we are to enjoy them as pets.

His activity when you come home from work: many snakes are more active (hunting prey) in the evening, & it's possible that he associates your presence with feeding.
If a snake's cage is uncomfortable (too small, too warm, too cold, lacking privacy, etc) that's another reason they may want out. While it feels better to think they just
want to be with us, that's easy to assume but hard to prove. His actions, waiting when you open the cage, might mean he is used to being fed that way, and when you
instead just pick him up and he clings firmly to you, well some snakes with food on their mind will do that instinctively. (You didn't mention what & how often you are
feeding him...if it's not enough, that could explain a lot...) Of course, I'm not actually seeing his behavior either, and it's true that snakes don't like to fall & hold on to
avoid that, but I've had occasions to let others hold my snakes & some make a point of coming back to me as well...I believe they feel safer with those they "know" best,
which makes sense too. So you see, there's more than one possible interpretation...keep an open mind & watch for clues.

You should be cautious about handling a snake near your face, especially since you & your BP are still getting to know each other. Some snakes do see our face as that
of a scary predator & may panic & suddenly nip, and you do not want a face-bite. There is disagreement among us about purposely handling a snake near your face, in
part because our snakes have variable personalities just as we do. What works for some of us can be dangerous for others. I've kept many snakes for many years &
used them in programs and "meet & greets" with strangers, so honestly, I make sure mine are comfortable around my face and none of them have misbehaved with
others because of that IMO, but I also don't recommend you do that until you know your snake far longer, if ever. Many snakes will innocently climb up our arms &
shoulders & that's different: if they are relaxed & IF you can manage to stay relaxed, it's pretty safe. But that's assuming you are "reading" your snake correctly, and
you say that you are still a bit nervous, as obviously he is too. Any snake that bumps himself & turns around to bite himself twice is nervous, hungry, or both.

As far as him not wanting to be put back in his cage, that's not unusual, but again there's more than one possible answer. Hard to say without more info about his cage.
Some snakes do like handling, others would like to escape. Snakes need traction so they don't like to let go of us for the strange uncertain feeling of being plopped back
in their cage. What you're doing is obvious to you, but not to your snake.

Remember that our snakes don't use vision to recognize us...their best senses are scent & touch. (when your snake appears to chase after you thru the glass/plexi of
the cage, they mostly are chasing unknown motion that might be dinner, NOT saying to themselves "hey, there's my favorite person". It's only by touching them or
when they get our scent that they really recognize us, so remember to communicate with their senses in mind. The less we startle them, the more relaxed they become, and the fewer dumb accidental bites we get.

[BPmom]

THanks all!

So to answer a few questions..

Feeding: He is at least 6 years old, we measured his shed about 3'9" - 3'10". Have not weighed him but here is a picture for a better idea of size. He was previously housed in a small 12"x6"x4" tub with no hide. Only big enough for the snake and a water bowl. His previous owner said he is fed 3 small mice every two weeks and has been on this scheduled since they got him. We fed him this past Thursday night. Only a day or two after eating has he previously been this active so we have not seen him this active this many days after eating. He is usually a happy humble snake who stays in his hide and casually roams the tank.

Heating: Again, from small 12"x6"x4" tub with no hide. We moved him temporarily into a 20 gal tank. Heat varies since we are, afterall, in New England. (Maine to be exact but in New England, whats the difference?) So the days get hot and cool. Ambient temp of the cage never drops below 77 but on hot days can rise up to 86-88. He has his hot hide which is heated with a UTH. That can vary again with the daily temps but ranges 89-96. (It was 88 degrees outside here and 96 under his hot hide. No AC in the room, no heat lamp. Just ambient temp plus belly heat. His water bowl is in the middle but I try to keep it more on the cool side if he doesn't move it himself. Cool side never drops below 77 but can range 77 - 82. Since its hot and humid here, not sure what to do about keeping the hot hide under 97 without taking away his belly heat. I have heard and plan on getting a thermostat/rheostat. His humidity can sometimes drop to 55 by sunrise but I will spray his cage before I leave and put a damp towel over half his cage and it will stay between 60-70.

Housing: 20 gal glass tank. Screen cover. When it gets chilly, I will use a low watt blue night lamp but outside temps + living in a big room, no AC, and on the second story = self-heated room. Hot hide is half a log. I don't think he would fit in a smaller half log so he enjoys the darkness and coolness of the Maxwell House Coffee plastic container I cut in half for him. I removed the lid so its not completely open or closed but gives him enough privacy during the day. (Im starting to think since moving him into this enclosure that he is enjoying the space and should upgrade to a bigger tank.) He seems to like to climb things like the glass walls and hides, and humidity gauge but nothing else in the tank besides some moss for moisture. I placed black Styrofoam boards on three sides of the tank for privacy/darkness and when im being active (cleaning, moving around a lot) I will cover most of the front of the tank too.

Again, I will add a picture for better sizing. I only handle him for maybe 5-10 mins max about every 4-5 days just so he knows that I am not a stranger, I am not food, I am not going to harm him.

[BPmom]

http://s346.photobucket.com/user/aly...tml?sort=3&o=0

[BPmom]

Also, the hides in the picture are no longer in his tank and have been upgraded. This was during his first shed, hence all the moss

[Bogertophis]

UTH MUST be regulated...even if you don't have a thermostat yet, go the the hardware store ASAP & buy a lamp cord with dimmer control (aka rheostat)
installed & plug UTH into that just for now- not expensive & useful for lamps too! Otherwise you risk burns to your snake, seriously! Expensive vet care
for you, but long term pain & suffering for him if you don't, & maybe even death. Burns can also get infected...

Since he was kept in a "shoe-box" sized tub before, no wonder he wants out & about now...how freaking awful! I know, not your doing, just saying...

This just a quick response from me, heading out the door. Might add more later...please fix (control!) the UTH now.