PVC door styles

[WhompingWillow]

I think I've finally narrowed down PVC choices to Reptile Basics 48x24x15. I'd love to do AP, but I can't stomach the idea of a 10-12 week wait time when we're ordering one cage at a time. We should also be getting a BoaMaster (hopefully soon, ordered it a month ago).

With the Reptile Basics, the cage has a single swing down door. Ideally I'd want something with two doors, but I'm willing to compromise on the door in order to gain the additional cage height.

For people who have a single door, what's the ease of use like? Cages would be used for BPs and a Dumeril's. Mostly curious about cleaning and feeding. Thanks!

[larryd23]

We graduated from an Exo-Terra glass viv to an RBI PVC viv a few weeks ago and we couldn't be happier.

Our boy got the space he needed and we no longer have to mist twice a day to try to maintain humidity.

Our setup is a 2x3x12" with LED lighting and a UTH and RHP, both from RBI. We added a Herpstat 6 (for the inevitable additions) to control temps.

The fold down door works well for us. My only criticism of the RBI viv is that the finish on the cuts aren't very clean, especially the door which I lightly sanded to take off the rough edge.

[Neal]

Yea, the lead time of AP is bad, but it's because they're well made and good customer service. They have other PVC cage makers as well if you're interested. I'm not a fan of Reptile Basics as of late.

[WhompingWillow]

We graduated from an Exo-Terra glass viv to an RBI PVC viv a few weeks ago and we couldn't be happier.

Our boy got the space he needed and we no longer have to mist twice a day to try to maintain humidity.

Our setup is a 2x3x12" with LED lighting and a UTH and RHP, both from RBI. We added a Herpstat 6 (for the inevitable additions) to control temps.

The fold down door works well for us. My only criticism of the RBI viv is that the finish on the cuts aren't very clean, especially the door which I lightly sanded to take off the rough edge.

Thanks! I'm glad it's working now out for you so far! What wattage RHP did you get? I'm hoping to get by with just 80 watt panels and no belly heat since the room is constantly around 70...

[WhompingWillow]

I feel like at this point I've probably researched them all, lol. If NPI didn't have that weird recess for a heat lamp on their stackable cages, I'd jump on those in a heartbeat. Just don't think I could make a RHP work in one, and I don't want to pay the $150+ shipping for their other kind.

I also really like HerpHouses but don't want to deal with international shipping.

I know a lot of people love AP, and I'm sure with good reason. Just can't do the long lead time.

[larryd23]

Thanks! I'm glad it's working now out for you so far! What wattage RHP did you get? I'm hoping to get by with just 80 watt panels and no belly heat since the room is constantly around 70...

I have an 80 watt RHP mount to the far left of the viv, directly over the heat tape. The RHP does a great job of maintaining the ambient temps without losing too much humidity. If you are keeping a BP, I would recommend the heat tape in order to maintain the proper belly heat and heat gradient from one side of the viv to the other.

But I'm fairly new to this hobby. Others on the forum know much more than I do, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

[Sauzo]

You get used to the wait for AP lol. I have 3 T8s, 3 T10s and 3 T25s and got an A10 on order for Pat my GTP. They are well worth the wait. I have had issues with their LED lighting going haywire on me but Ali has always sent me new ones no charge within a day of calling her, even after a year+ with my T10s. We think it is maybe because i run everyone except my dumerils and BP at around 80% humidity. She sent me the new water resistant ones they are trying it and it seems to be working well.

I personally am not a fan of single drop down doors or acrylic doors. They warp with humidity and heat over time and they scratch pretty easy. Plus i have large constrictors so i need to use one side usually as a shield as my big guys really get the gusto going when they smell food. I did go with a single swing open acrylic door for my A10 though.

I personally love AP cages. They are sturdy and well thought out with all rounded edges and corners so snakes wont hurt themselves as well as owners. Also Ali is awesome to deal with, love their customer service.

[Regius_049]

I think I've finally narrowed down PVC choices to Reptile Basics 48x24x15. I'd love to do AP, but I can't stomach the idea of a 10-12 week wait time when we're ordering one cage at a time. We should also be getting a BoaMaster (hopefully soon, ordered it a month ago).

With the Reptile Basics, the cage has a single swing down door. Ideally I'd want something with two doors, but I'm willing to compromise on the door in order to gain the additional cage height.

For people who have a single door, what's the ease of use like? Cages would be used for BPs and a Dumeril's. Mostly curious about cleaning and feeding. Thanks!

I have some cages with the single swing door and in some respects, I like them better than the dual sliding. They allow you to open the entire cage, which makes manipulating the animal and cage contents easier (and more convenient). Cleaning will undoubtedly be easier. Dual doors really only helps with feeding if you have a particularly aggressive feeder. In my opinion, ball pythons don't really fit this category.

My issue with acrylic single doors is that when they are fairly large (> 2 ft or so), they seem to warp over the course of several years. It isn't generally horrible, but if you have something thinner like a colubrid, it can be problematic. It is less of an issue with thicker boid snakes.

You get used to the wait for AP lol. I have 3 T8s, 3 T10s and 3 T25s and got an A10 on order for Pat my GTP.

I don't know if this is changeable, but I would highly encourage you to switch your GTP cage from an A10 to something like a T5 (3' x 2' x 2'). I think you'll find that the length in more useful than the height.

[Sauzo]

It's switchable and trust me, i kicked around the idea of a T5, T12, A8, A10 and A20. I settled on the A10 because i wanted the 3 feet of height. You ask why? Because after doing the measuring, i feel 3 feet height is better than 2 feet. First, AP cages are not exact, so 36 height is about 1 inch shorter on the inside diameter as their measurements are done OD. So that puts me a 35 inches. Then add 1 inch for a RHP. Down to 34 inches. Then as pretty much RBI and Bob at Pro Products will tell you, you want at least 6 inches of air gap between the RHP and the closest object. That would put me at a minimum of 8 inches distance for the 6 inch gap, 1 inch for snake thickness as a adult and 1 inch for the perch. So I'm down to 26 inches now. Then add in at least 1 inch for substrate or 4 inches if i go bioactive. That puts me with anywhere from 22 to 25 inches of actual workable space for perches below the highest one for the heat.

So basically im using 11 to 14 inches just for the necessities of the cage. If i went with a 2 foot high cage, i would be left with 10 to 13 inches of space for perches.

That is why i settled for the A10. If i end up needing more length, i will just order something like an A20 and then use the A10 as an excuse to get another snake!!

Plus, while i agree, GTPs do like to climb horizontal on perches, the optimum exercise will come from them climbing up and down perches. That will expend the most energy and make them use the most of their muscles which will help them in pooping as activity helps get their plumbing moving and stuff.

Oh and forgot to add, without going back and editing all my numbers, just subtract 2 to 3 more inches from all those numbers after the highest perch as like i said, 8 is minimum total from the RHP. I feel safer going 10-11 inches from the RHP as the highest perch.