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  1. #1
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    Keep in the incubator until after they have 1st shed?

    Hi all,

    My first ever clutch is on day 50, been incubated at 88-89f and they’re starting to dimple,

    I’ve spoke to a few breeders that move the eggs to a clean tub with damp paper towels when they first start to pip and once they’re all out, remove the shells and put them back in the incubator until they shed, then separate,

    I’m guessing this is fine to do?

    I’m unbelievably excited to see those little noses pipping! I’ve decided not to cut and let them do the work!


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  2. #2
    BPnet Royalty John1982's Avatar
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    Lots of different ways to do these things. I personally like to give them more gradient while they're going through that first shed cycle. Then again, they mostly all just pile into the same hide anyway so it seems like a safe enough method. Good luck and enjoy the experience. It never gets old!
    Last edited by John1982; 05-05-2018 at 03:44 AM.

  3. #3
    BPnet Senior Member Lord Sorril's Avatar
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    Re: Keep in the incubator until after they have 1st shed?

    I have heard of people leaving them in the incubator for an extra day or two, but, not until the first shed.

    I imagine that depends on the size of your incubator and how many clutches are in it.

    I personally don't do that because when they hatch out their metabolism accelerates dramatically and their oxygen requirement spikes. 30 baby snakes in a sealed incubator-I wouldn't risk it...too risky imo
    *.* TNTC

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran Eramyl's Avatar
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    I set them all up in a single tub in my hatching rack with soaked paper towels as substrate. I sorted them out after each shed

  5. #5
    BPnet Veteran greco's Avatar
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    Re: Keep in the incubator until after they have 1st shed?

    Personally I move my hatchlings into a tub when they come fully out of the egg. But I keep the clutch together in a single 6 qt tub, on damp paper towels, until the first shed.

    Once they shed, I put them into individual 6 qt tubs with dry paper towels (I like the textured Viva select-a-size) and a handful of damp sphagnum moss, misting as needed for humidity. I picked up the moss trick from Chris Wofford. Seems to make the hatchlings feel more secure, and start eating more quickly.

    I give them a few days to settle in, then start offering live hoppers every 5 days. (Though I only wait 1-2 days to re-attempt feeding any that don't eat.) Once they've eaten several meals, I try to switch them over to frozen/thawed hoppers.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Avian Life Neal's Avatar
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    I always found it better to put them in the same tub together with a wet paper towel.

    I wouldn't leave them in the incubator, but that's just me.
    -Birds-

    0.1 - Poicephalus senegalus - Stella (Senegal Parrot)
    0.1- Poicephalus rufiventris - Alexa (Red-bellied Parrot)



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