Trouble Feeder

[maausen]

I know you all see lots of threads on "trouble feeders", but I have been having some trouble and would find great comfort in finding some help. I have a 2 1/2 year old male ball that has been refusing feed since the beginning of July, prior to this he was doing great with feeding. I know this is only around 3 1/2 months but I am looking for guidance on what I should do. He has not lost any weight so I am not worried about that. His temperatures seem to be just fine!

I have been offering every 2 weeks and each time he comes out of his hide looking interested, but when I offer he just gets uninterested and goes back into his hide. I have read that I could just keep offering until he eats again, try switching to a f/t mouse to get him started, offer prekilled, offer live. I am wondering what would be the best steps to follow to get him feeding again.

Thanks for any help!

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Before changing prey I always recommend to do husbandry change from as little as the substrate to the size of the enclosure and putting the animal in something VERY cramped.

They fast for various reason as adult, from being sexually mature and wanting to mate, to being over fed and fasting to catch up (common in captivity and with males) to husbandry issue.

[maausen]

I think I will try out the substrate change.. maybe that will get him going again. Very frustrating last few months with trying to get him feeding. Thanks Deborah!

[maausen]

I hope it isn't a husbandry issue.. Thats my biggest worry! Even though the thermometer reads what it should I always worry about it. I have him in a AP cage with RHP. My thermometer reads usually ~88-95 under the RHP and cool side ~78-82. Humidity is always around 55% or so when not in shed. This is at least what my accurite reads. Because I was so worried about it being off, I have another thermometer/hydrometer from Reptile Basics that sits inside his cool side and takes temps from the inside. That one usually reads 80-82 and 60% humidity for some reason..

[Zincubus]

How and when are you offering food ??


Have you tried the hairdryer trick and tried feeding in low light evening time ?

Also I'm thinking 95F is rather too hot ??


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[Pezz]

How and when are you offering food ??


Have you tried the hairdryer trick and tried feeding in low light evening time ?

Also I'm thinking 95F is rather too hot ??


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I agree that 95 seems a tad high despite being less than mammalian internal temps. I try to aim for the ever elusive 91.

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[maausen]

I feed in low light in the evening time. I thaw food in fridge overnight, then put in warm water to get it warmed up then hit the head with a hairdryer.

Its not constantly 95F but will spike up to it. I have my herpstat set to 82 and it keeps the ambient best at that temp. The hot side just tends to spike? I don't really know why.

[honeybee]

I don't know if you've tried this, but it has improved my little ones feeding response in the short time I've had him. At first, he would take prey but not be super interested, now, I just dangle the rat in front of his hide and he strikes like his life depends on it.

I thaw the rat pup in a ziplock bag put into a tupperware of warm water for about 10-20 minutes. When I take it out, it's still slightly cold. After this I put the rat just to the side of his che to warm it to body temperature. This also gets the smell going through his enclosure, which I think is the reason his response has gotten so intense. After about 10-15 minutes under the CHE, I make sure the rats belly is soft and the head is warm to the touch, even better if you can measure the rat temp with a thermometer and shoot for around 100 degrees. After that I just take the rat with my tongs and shake it a little bit in front of his hide. Even if hes shoved way in the back of it, not even looking at the rat, within about 30 seconds hes struck and coiled and back in his hide.

The combination of the smell permeating the enclosure and the rat being warmed to body temperature has done wonders for me.

[Zincubus]

I feed in low light in the evening time. I thaw food in fridge overnight, then put in warm water to get it warmed up then hit the head with a hairdryer.

Its not constantly 95F but will spike up to it. I have my herpstat set to 82 and it keeps the ambient best at that temp. The hot side just tends to spike? I don't really know why.

All sounds good , only thing I'd change given he's not feeding well is the warm water part . I have a couple who wouldn't bother anything warmed in water and I'm guessing it was because the smell / odour of the rodent was simply washed away - some are ultra finicky . I thaw on a plate on the boiler or on a heat mat then boost with a blast from hairdryer . See as you in low light and evening .


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[maausen]

All sounds good , only thing I'd change given he's not feeding well is the warm water part . I have a couple who wouldn't bother anything warmed in water and I'm guessing it was because the smell / odour of the rodent was simply washed away - some are ultra finicky . I thaw on a plate on the boiler or on a heat mat then boost with a blast from hairdryer . See as you in low light and evening .


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Thanks Zincubus. I assume it may not be the water part because the rat is in a sealed ziplock for the entire process till I take it out and offer.. Unless you mean that this even has an effect?

I don't know if you've tried this, but it has improved my little ones feeding response in the short time I've had him. At first, he would take prey but not be super interested, now, I just dangle the rat in front of his hide and he strikes like his life depends on it.

I thaw the rat pup in a ziplock bag put into a tupperware of warm water for about 10-20 minutes. When I take it out, it's still slightly cold. After this I put the rat just to the side of his che to warm it to body temperature. This also gets the smell going through his enclosure, which I think is the reason his response has gotten so intense. After about 10-15 minutes under the CHE, I make sure the rats belly is soft and the head is warm to the touch, even better if you can measure the rat temp with a thermometer and shoot for around 100 degrees. After that I just take the rat with my tongs and shake it a little bit in front of his hide. Even if hes shoved way in the back of it, not even looking at the rat, within about 30 seconds hes struck and coiled and back in his hide.

The combination of the smell permeating the enclosure and the rat being warmed to body temperature has done wonders for me.

I might try this one! Sound like it could really work for him. Thank you for the help.