Do I intervene orthe wait some more

[OTorresUSMC]

I have a killerbee yellowbelly that is going on 20 weeks off feed. His weight before his fast had gotten to 569 grams. He is now sitting at 495 grams. I know husbandry is going to be the first thing mentioned. He is in the exact same set up as my other 3 balls and he is the only one not eating. I have plexi tanks, 83-84 ambient 89-90 for the hot hide. coconut husk bedding, everything on thermostat and monitored by thermometers. My question is is it time to "assist" feed or do I continue to wait? What is considered too much weight for them to lose? Also his last couple meals were rats. I have since tried rats and mice and all live, pre-killed and F/T. Every now and then he will strike at one but never coils. Don't know if this is BP stubbornness, his spider wobble causing a problem or something else that I can't see. His behavior otherwise seems normal. He roams the cage at night, switches between his hot and cool hides and is drinking as evidenced by the fact I still find urates in his enclosure. His last shed also went with no problems. Recommendations????

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[VIP CONSTRICTORS]

Try african rat

[OTorresUSMC]

Try african rat

No where to get those around me. Also if rather not run the risk of him imprinting on something I can't readily get. I breed my own rats so that's what id like to stick with

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[Stewart_Reptiles]

You do not assist feed an animal that knows how to eat and that is healthy.

The first thing you do you make husbandry changes (always do that before offering alternative preys), because an animal is in the same setup than other identical animal does not mean that that setup works for that specific animal.

Downsize as much as you can V18 tub (or similar foot print) or 12 quarts tub or similar foot print, provide aspen or coco coir chips as bedding, wait a week and offer food. I would also recommend to lower the temps and not go higher then 86/88 on the warm side and 78 - 80 on the cool side.

[JodanOrNoDan]

You do not assist feed an animal that knows how to eat and that is healthy.

The first thing you do you make husbandry changes (always do that before offering alternative preys), because an animal is in the same setup than other identical animal does not mean that that setup works for that specific animal.

Downsize as much as you can V18 tub (or similar foot print) or 12 quarts tub or similar foot print, provide aspen or coco coir chips as bedding, wait a week and offer food. I would also recommend to lower the temps and not go higher then 86/88 on the warm side and 78 - 80 on the cool side.

This is a new one on me and one I have never tried. Why the lower temps?

[Albert Clark]

This is a new one on me and one I have never tried. Why the lower temps?

. Hey J, I have heard of the lower temps before in younger balls who are picky feeders and those that are off feed. Some juveniles and sub adults who are having feeding issues respond better in a few degree decrease sometimes. Definitely true with hatchlings who are being picky feeders too. I would also consider a trial run with 100% cypress mulch as a alternative as well.

[JodanOrNoDan]

. Hey J, I have heard of the lower temps before in younger balls who are picky feeders and those that are off feed. Some juveniles and sub adults who are having feeding issues respond better in a few degree decrease sometimes. Definitely true with hatchlings who are being picky feeders too.

This is really interesting to me at least. I have always assumed the opposite. The key word being assumed. Generally, the animals in my collection that go off food go off as it gets cooler and then go back on as it gets warmer. I wonder what is different about the hatchlings that triggers a feeding response at slightly lower temps.

[OTorresUSMC]

Well I keep the whole room heated so I don't know that I want to drop the temps for all of them. I could lower his hot spot I suppose and see if that does anything.

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[Albert Clark]

Probably has to do somewhat with the immature thermoregulatory systems in the younger animals as opposed to the adults. Like the humidity percentages seem to work in the opposite fashion as it relates to ages and extremes.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

This is a new one on me and one I have never tried. Why the lower temps?

Because the temps are a bit high on both side especially for a spider, Spiders seem to do better with slightly lower temperature. And with a cool end of 84 it would actually be better not to have a hot spot all together than have both.