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  1. #1
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    New member, new snake Questions

    Hi, I'm a new ball python owner and wanted to share my little guy. My son and I went to the show at Pomona last weeken and came home with a new little guy. He is a coral glow 66% het pied. I set his cage up with a UTh. It's a 10 gallon tank with a hide and two heat lamps. So far in the last week he's eaten a live pinky and a F/T weaned rat. The pinky was eaten on Wednesday and the frozen on Friday. On Thursday he shed and still has what seems to be a stuck shed in his head. He can be a little hissy at time and strikes at me occasionally but I'm hoping it's due to the stuck shed and not a bad temper as my boys really want to hold him. My son says he needs a girlfriend and I'm still trying to convince my wife not to get rid of him let alone get another snake. Needless to say I've got big plans for him down the road. Couple of questions? Should I handle him more or less to reduce the temper he has? Should I let his stuck shed resolve itself or help him? Thanks! Edit I'll try to figure how to post pics soon

  2. #2
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    Re: New member, new snake Questions

    [IMG]URL="https://ball-pythons.net/gallery//showimage.[/IMG]

  3. #3
    Sometimes It Hurts... PitOnTheProwl's Avatar
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    That's a lot of heat on a 10 gallon tank. How are you regulating your UTH?
    Give him some time to settle in.

  4. #4
    BPnet Royalty EL-Ziggy's Avatar
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    Re: New member, new snake Questions

    Congrats on the new addition fire. First things first, is your uth controlled by a thermostat? That's gonna be a crucial piece of equipment. Secondly, you may not need that much heat. If your uth is dialed in the most you'll need beyond that is a low wattage infrared bulb, on a dimmer, to slightly boost your ambient temps. You'll also want hides on the warm and cool sides of the tank. You could add a moist hide to help with the stuck shed. Except for cage maintenance I typically don't handle new arrivals until they've eaten for me a few times. I feed young snakes every 5-7 days. Once he acclimates to his new home, has a few meals and handling sessions, he'll most likely mellow out. Best wishes with your new critter. Looking forward to seeing pictures.
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  5. #5
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    New member, new snake Questions




    To update he has pooped since my last post and weighed in at 210 grams. He does have a nice box to hide in. I regulate my temp with a rancho controller I had lying around from when I used to brew beer. I plan to get a 20 gallon tank and a better temp controller soon.


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    Last edited by Mofire; 01-15-2017 at 11:08 PM.

  6. #6
    BPnet Senior Member CALM Pythons's Avatar
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    Re: New member, new snake Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Mofire View Post



    To update he has pooped since my last post and weighed in at 210 grams. He does have a nice box to hide in. I regulate my temp with a rancho controller I had lying around from when I used to brew beer. I plan to get a 20 gallon tank and a better temp controller soon.


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    Good lookin BP bro..
    Just a fyi you dont need 2 heat lamps, you'll fry the lil guy. The belly heat and the lamp for Ambient (air temps) is all you need. Even on a big enclosure like 48"x12x24" all we run are 2 sources.
    As far as his weight he is the same size as my 6 month old.. I also have a 3 month old thats 80Grams. All the youngins seem snappy. Im having to dominate my male (6 month) by going directly in and not hesitating or giving him a chance to "S" up on me.. If i put my hand right over his head so he goes into a protective BALL i then can pick him up and he is then snapped out of it. If I open the cage and screw around and he has time to get ready then as soon as my hand goes in he strikes over and over..
    My female (3 months) is timid, thats differnet than my male being aggressive. If I move slow she will eventually strike into the air once & try to scare me off but then she flees and wants away from me..So now ive tryed to be gentle with her and a bit easier than with the male because she doesnt try to tag me as much as she tries to get away. . . I also use a snake Hook ($7.99 Pet store) sometimes when the male is waiting for me to put my hand in, then once he doesnt sense heat on the hook i can pull him out with it wothout him striking and into my hands he goes from there... A few tricks you can try... Also a dry wash cloth works too to make them stop the S posturing.. The key is to snap these little guys out of the mind set there in and then they are usually good to go.. Get him on a regular feed schedule too... Once a week is fine. There is so much info on this site you can read for hours... Keep us posted on the lil guy, he is gorgeous.
    ohhh and that Tstat is a good one. Some run Ranco's on this site.. I use a Herostat 2 so I can control both heat sorces.
    Last edited by CALM Pythons; 01-16-2017 at 12:11 AM.
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  7. #7
    BPnet Lifer zina10's Avatar
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    Beautiful little guy !!!

    Everyone already gave you GREAT advice !! Esp. about the heat and lamps.

    You should also cover the sides, back, and most of the top of the tank. No matter the size of the tank. The little one is very "exposed" and that can cause stress. Right now he only has a hide on the warm side, so he has to choose safety or Thermoregulation.

    Get some black paper (or any color, but darker the better) and tape it on the sides and back of the tank. Then cover most of the top of the tank. You should only have one lamp dome up there...you can cover the rest of the top with silver foil. Will also help with humidity.

    It will turn the tank into more of a "cave" feeling for the little one and he won't be so exposed.

    He is really pretty !!
    Zina

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  9. #8
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    Re: New member, new snake Questions

    That's a great looking snake you have there - good luck!
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  10. #9
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    Like others have said, ball pythons like to have cover, and all the more so when they're young. Apart from still settling in, the defensiveness could also be related to just being too exposed. You can add a bunch of fake plants,vines, branches, or even a bunch of balled up paper towels, paper towel rolls, etc, so he can slither through things instead of only across the open ground - especially when you move him to a bigger cage.

    It's also generally recommended to give them at least two hides in different temperatures; and the hides should be a snug fit. You can stuff moss or paper towels in the hide you have to take up some of the space. They like to have the sides of their body in contact with something solid all the way around.

    If you have a defensive baby, just keep in mind that it's basically terrified you're going to eat it. In order for it to settle down, it's not enough to just not eat it. It has to stop associating you with scary experiences. So when you start handling him, do it in the evening in low light, and move slowly and calmly. Keep handling sessions short. Try to pick him up by scooping him gently from underneath, not grabbing from above or grabbing for his head since that is what a predator would do. If he starts freaking out, put him back. The more time he spends out of his cage and in a panic, the more he will associate being out of his cage with panicking.

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  12. #10
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    Re: New member, new snake Questions

    So after reading some of the replies I've updated my enclosure. I took one heat lamp off and put the paper around the glass. I will add a new hide and even maybe some fake plants. He seems to be happy


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