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Picture of Stella and her temporary home!
Heres a few picturesof my first boa, Stella the BCI. I had just added some vines to her tank and figured id take a few pictures so you guys could tell me what you think. It is a temporary tank, @ 36x18x18 i am in the works of getting her a 6ft AP for when she outgrows this one. Funny enough i was just thinking about how she never really moves too far from her favorite spot in the top right leaves (at least not while i'm awake) and she decided to show off how big she's getting! She was born 6/29/16 and i have had her since 10/8. She has been eating like a champ, f/t rat hoppers, and has completed her first shed with me without any issues. Ive got her lights and heater on a timer so her temps stay right all the time, and i give her a little mist everyday to keep the humidity right. She still hasn't pooped since i've owned her, but i've been searching the forums and i'm not too worried. Based on how she stretched out just now it looks like she's definitely grown a little since i've got her. She's got a great temperment and i'm glad i joined the boa community. Awesome animals!
Also, sorry for the somewhat bad picture quality its from my phone. And the dried water on the glass from misting doesnt help either ha.
http://imgur.com/a/AwGBh
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dxw425 For This Useful Post:
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Congrats on your nice looking Boa!
The one thing I found that you can count on about Balls is that they are consistent about their inconsistentcy.
1.2 Coastal Carpet Pythons
Mack The Knife, 2013
Lizzy, 2010
Etta, 2013
1.1 Jungle Carpet Pythons
Esmarelda , 2014
Sundance, 2012
2.0 Common BI Boas, Punch, 2005; Butch, age?
0.1 Normal Ball Python, Elvira, 2001
0.1 Olive (Aussie) Python, Olivia, 2017
Please excuse the spelling in my posts. Auto-Correct is my worst enema.
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Hard to see but nice boa I think lol. Question though, what are you using for heat? Please don't say the clear light on the left lol. If you are, ditch it or the red light and switch one out for a CHE. And tell me regardless of what you are using, you got a t-stat somewhere in there
0.1 Rio Bravo Pokigron Suriname BC-Gina
1.0 Meltzer/Lincoln Peruvian Longtail het anery BCL-Louie
0.1 Biak Green Tree Python-Pat
1.0 OSHY Biak Green Tree Python-Alex
0.0.1 Super Reduced Reticulated Gila Monster-Dozer
0.0.1 Utah Banded Gila Monster-Tank
0.0.1 Super Black Beaded Lizard-Reggie
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Re: Picture of Stella and her temporary home!
 Originally Posted by Sauzo
Hard to see but nice boa I think lol. Question though, what are you using for heat? Please don't say the clear light on the left lol. If you are, ditch it or the red light and switch one out for a CHE. And tell me regardless of what you are using, you got a t-stat somewhere in there 
thanks! For heat i have the white lamp on (day only), a under tank heat pad(turns on when light turns off) and the red light stays on 24/7. You cant see them but ive got 3 seperate thermometers and hygrometers all in different areas to see temps/humidity. Everything falls right where it should at all times. Why would i switch the light out for the ceramic heat emitter? given that the temps are correct and the "daylight" is on for a regular cycle i see no point in wasting money on a che.
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You need a thermostat for that heat pad. Unregulated UTHs can/will get 110F or hotter which can burn or do neurological dmg to a boa. Also the substrate is way too deep for a UTH. You want about 1/4-1/2 inch deep. As deep as you got it, that UTH is doing nothing.
The CHE is to give heat with out light. You don't need a red light. But if you got a UTH and set it up right, then you will be fine without the CHE. I personally just use flexwatt only in my AP cages and a RHP in my Constrictors NW cage. I also only keep the aspen about 1/2 inch deep so the snakes can easily push it aside to sit on the heat if wanted.
Finally you say all the temps are "right" yet what are the temps when that daylight turns off? UTHs don't give much heat in AP cages. In a glass tank, it would provide 0 ambient heat and under what appears to be about 1-2 inches of Eco Earth, it would provide less than 0.
0.1 Rio Bravo Pokigron Suriname BC-Gina
1.0 Meltzer/Lincoln Peruvian Longtail het anery BCL-Louie
0.1 Biak Green Tree Python-Pat
1.0 OSHY Biak Green Tree Python-Alex
0.0.1 Super Reduced Reticulated Gila Monster-Dozer
0.0.1 Utah Banded Gila Monster-Tank
0.0.1 Super Black Beaded Lizard-Reggie
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Re: Picture of Stella and her temporary home!
 Originally Posted by Sauzo
You need a thermostat for that heat pad. Unregulated UTHs can/will get 110F or hotter which can burn or do neurological dmg to a boa. Also the substrate is way too deep for a UTH. You want about 1/4-1/2 inch deep. As deep as you got it, that UTH is doing nothing.
The CHE is to give heat with out light. You don't need a red light. But if you got a UTH and set it up right, then you will be fine without the CHE. I personally just use flexwatt only in my AP cages and a RHP in my Constrictors NW cage. I also only keep the aspen about 1/2 inch deep so the snakes can easily push it aside to sit on the heat if wanted.
Finally you say all the temps are "right" yet what are the temps when that daylight turns off? UTHs don't give much heat in AP cages. In a glass tank, it would provide 0 ambient heat and under what appears to be about 1-2 inches of Eco Earth, it would provide less than 0.
My temps are 84 at half the tank height on the red side at all times. The white light is topping out at 90 at the middle height, and drops down to 80 with the light off. Considering how much substrate there is and the fact that the snake never stays or burrows in the corner, i dont think theres reason for concern. And if anything i can just not use the UTH.
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Re: Picture of Stella and her temporary home!
 Originally Posted by Dxw425
My temps are 84 at half the tank height on the red side at all times. The white light is topping out at 90 at the middle height, and drops down to 80 with the light off. Considering how much substrate there is and the fact that the snake never stays or burrows in the corner, i dont think theres reason for concern. And if anything i can just not use the UTH.
That's a bad way to think, honestly. It's something that could easily get your snake burned, it's a very unnecessary risk. Your snake may not burrow now, but that does not mean it never will. If you do want to use a UTH, do so responsibly, that means getting a thermostat.
Crawling back into the reptile scene once more!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Fraido For This Useful Post:
PokeyTheNinja (10-31-2016)
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Re: Picture of Stella and her temporary home!
 Originally Posted by Dxw425
My temps are 84 at half the tank height on the red side at all times. The white light is topping out at 90 at the middle height, and drops down to 80 with the light off. Considering how much substrate there is and the fact that the snake never stays or burrows in the corner, i dont think theres reason for concern. And if anything i can just not use the UTH.
Your snake, your call. just know that herp vets will run hundreds of dollars if your snake develops an RI or gets a burn. And you want to take temps from the ground level, not halfway or top of the cage. And also a constantly moving snake is an uncomfortable snake. Most snakes that are content in temps, humidity and food will stay curled up or relaxed. All of my girls and my one guy bounce from cool hide to warm hide except my big gal who doesn't use hides and just curls up under her shelf in her AP cage on the cool side and the warm side.
Oh and if you are going to run a UTH with no t-stat, be careful as that can pose a fire risk as well especially if you plan on using AP cages. There is no gap between the cage floor and whatever you set it on. Sp if you stack them or even place one on a table, there will be no air gap so without a thermostat to regulate it, it can easily overheat and melt/start a fire. Just a FYI. And this isn't even taking into the acct like I said of a burn being a high probability.
Last edited by Sauzo; 10-31-2016 at 01:18 AM.
0.1 Rio Bravo Pokigron Suriname BC-Gina
1.0 Meltzer/Lincoln Peruvian Longtail het anery BCL-Louie
0.1 Biak Green Tree Python-Pat
1.0 OSHY Biak Green Tree Python-Alex
0.0.1 Super Reduced Reticulated Gila Monster-Dozer
0.0.1 Utah Banded Gila Monster-Tank
0.0.1 Super Black Beaded Lizard-Reggie
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Re: Picture of Stella and her temporary home!
 Originally Posted by Sauzo
Your snake, your call. just know that herp vets will run hundreds of dollars if your snake develops an RI or gets a burn. And you want to take temps from the ground level, not halfway or top of the cage. And also a constantly moving snake is an uncomfortable snake. Most snakes that are content in temps, humidity and food will stay curled up or relaxed. All of my girls and my one guy bounce from cool hide to warm hide except my big gal who doesn't use hides and just curls up under her shelf in her AP cage on the cool side and the warm side.
Oh and if you are going to run a UTH with no t-stat, be careful as that can pose a fire risk as well especially if you plan on using AP cages. There is no gap between the cage floor and whatever you set it on. Sp if you stack them or even place one on a table, there will be no air gap so without a thermostat to regulate it, it can easily overheat and melt/start a fire. Just a FYI. And this isn't even taking into the acct like I said of a burn being a high probability.
Thanks for the advise. When i get the AP set up i will definitely have a thermostat, and was planning on using a heat emitting panel only for the source. None of the current tank will be used for the new enclosure, this is just a temporary (month or so) space for her. I did go ahead and turn off the UTH, as it seems it has more potential for harm than benefits. I moved the thermometers to floor level and the temps are only a degree or two cooler. And good to know about them staying in one place, she loves her spot in the artificial leaves and she just shifts her positioning throughout the day.
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