Can someone explain radiant heat panels to me?

[Jarvis the Python]

I don't understand at all, how they create the appropriate level of heat without drying out the air just like a ceramic heat emitter. Or why they can't burn your snake, like a CHE would if the snake could reach it. I'm using a 100w CHE now and I'm having to pipe in mist from a humidifier (admittedly I'm still using a glass tank with screen top) :/ I'm looking at something like a T8 or reptile basics equivalent and it seems like switching to RHP would be better - UTH won't keep the ambient from getting too cold - but it doesn't make sense to me that they work the way they are said to. I admit freely I have never seen one in the flesh. Also it seems like the t-8s (and equivalents in design and price) are designed with belly heat in mind rather than RHPs...?

[cron14]

I used a glass tank for the first year of owning my bp. What a headache. I tried to switch to a tub but that took away from wanting to see my bp even tho he never leaves his hide for the most part lol. I finally invested in a t-8 and it was the best decision I've ever made. I installed an 80 watt RHP myself in it and I am not a handy man. As for how it drys things out or how it doesn't burn your snake, you need a reliable thermostat. I actually glued my probe onto the lens of the RHP so that I can set the thermostat to a temperature that won't burn my bp but provide the adequate hotspot/ambient temps. Not really sure as to why it doesn't dry out the air but I have had 0 issues with temperature and humidity since i switched to the t-8 and I've had it for 8 months. Hope this helps.

[BPGator]

I'll take a stab at it...

I believe the mechanism by which an RHP and a CHE transfer heat is similar (radiation), but an RHP is designed to be much more efficient. Therefore it uses less energy and its surface isn't as hot to the touch. The RHP is larger too so it can distribute the heat across a wider area. I don't have too much experience with CHEs, but the max surface temp of my RHPs is 160°F. Although prolonged exposure to that temp can certainly burn, since the RHP is mounted to the top of an enclosure, the snake will not remain in constant contact for very long if it does touch it, unlike with belly heat.

You ask whether an RHP is better than UTH for a T8. I think the answer depends on your ambient air temperature. My house is kept cold, so as you suggest, UTH does little to help that. For that reason, I went with RHP in my T8s. I use coco chip substrate and mist periodically to maintain humidity.

As far as how an RHP works - radiative heat transfer. The air itself is not heated, rather objects in the enclosure absorb the energy emitted by the RHP. However, as a result of the objects being heated, the air warms too.


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[CloudtheBoa]

RHPs are specifically designed to heat the surfaces below them, as well as raise the ambients at the same time. I've actually found RHPs to dry out enclosures way more than a CHE because of this, I dampen my bedding to provide 100% of humidity through evaporation of the moisture in the bedding, so you can imagine the RHP attacks it a lot more than a CHE would. CHEs provide belly heat as well, but not as precisely or strongly as an RHP.

Of course, I've found in my T12's it doesn't really matter how dry the bedding is, it stays incredibly humid. The RHPs were extremely easy to install myself, so although the Animal Plastics cages are meant for heat tape/pads, it doesn't really affect the versatility.

[Coluber42]

A big part of why CHE's are so bad for humidity is that in most cases they require sitting on top of a screen top. Even if the rest of the screen is covered, you can't cover the part where the CHE is. So it heats the ground under it, causing any moisture in the substrate to evaporate and then escape with rising warm air through the screen where the lamp is. An rhp is mounted on the inside of the enclosure, so doesn't require that giant humidity-losing hole. The rhp doesn't hot on its surface because it spreads the heat over a larger area. It also does heat the air too, as a result of having such a large warm surface.


Any heat source will reduce the relative humidity some, because warm air can hold more moisture than cooler air; even in a totally sealed box, the relative humidity would drop if the temp went up, and climb when the temp went down. Since your enclosure is probably warmer than your house, it will automatically have lower relative humidity unless you limit ventilation and/or add more water that can evaporate easily (lots of forum topics about sponges, moss, substrates, large water dishes, etc).

Incidentally, you can put a rhp on a glass tank with some minimal mods to the lid. It's a safe and efficient heat source, and it will let you cover as much of the screen as you need to with foil or plexiglass to retain humidity, instead of having to leave a giant opening for the che.

[OhhWatALoser]

Efficiency, in normal cases both can get the enclosure at the proper temp, but the radiant heat panel will get hot to the touch, but not enough to burn. The che will give you third degree burn in a few seconds. Those higher temps remove the humidity at a much faster rate also.

[Jarvis the Python]

Good answers and things I hadn't thought of, thank you. Our house is kept in the neighborhood of 74 F, so I think I am going to try just the heat tape first, and get RHP if I need to. Thanks again.

[Alexio]

On full blast a rhp is going to reach 175f and a CHE can reach temps into the 300 and 400 degrees f. At that point you are essentially cooking the air which is why it makes it so much dryer.