New ball python owner asking for advice asap?

[Azzymagic]

Insight:
I have been interested in owning a ball python for almost a year and did all my research in upkeep, costs maintenance etc and thought I was ready. A couple of days ago I bought a new young ball python. I do not know the sex or phenotype of the little one and bought it from a well reviewed pet shop in my area that sell many reptile pets.
Along with this reptile I bought a vivarium that ,I was told by the workers at the shop, would last around a year as it would eventually outgrow. (no problem). It has a fluorescent light bar, heat lamp and heat mat with the vivarium itself being made of beech wood and with glass doors. A couple of rocks, plastic plant, watering bowl and 2 half log hides for decor. A fir bark substrate covers the heat mat which resides in the centre.
With the initial set up I was surprised that I wasn't given a thermometer and hygrometer which gave me a lot of anxiety for the first night. The next day I went back and got the extra (plus a wedge). My second alarm was that the humidity seemed to vary so much and that perhaps the hygrometer was unreliable.
I knew when I set out to get a ball python that it wouldn't be super easy and I liked the idea of taking responsibility but this anxiety for my pets health is making me feel quite unwell
Summary
I want to be a good owner and the health and well being of my ball python means everything:
Is my set up adequate?
Should I make any changes to the set up?
With university fast approaching would it be better to take the young ball python back to the pet store or try to make this work?

(apologies for image quality)
Extra details
Zoo Med Premium ReptiBark - Natural reptile bedding
Arcadia IP67 vivarium ultra seal fluorescent lighting controller
Arcadia 450mm/18" Desert 10%+ lamp (9 month UVB) 15Watt
ProRep Basking spot lamp 40Watt
Heat matt (Currently in use so I can't clarify the make)
I was recommended to leave the UVB and Basking lamp on for 8hrs a day between 9.30am and 5.30pm and the heat matt 24/7.
Humidity varies from 50-80 although the substrate does not feel damp.
Temperature usually maintains 30-35 Celcius when both lamps are on (day) and 25-30 when only the heat matt is on (night)

[piedlover79]

Once you get a ball python set they don't take much maintenance so I wouldn't worry too much about school coming up as long as you do still truly want the snake as a pet. They are not effort free, but I had snakes all through college without any trouble. Easier to care for than any mammal or fish for that matter in my opinion.

Some pics of the enclosure would help, the ones you tried to post are not showing up. The heat mat, is that under the tank? Do you have a thermostat for it? If not, go get one, those heat mats can go wrong without one and will cook the animal. UVA/B is not needed for ball pythons, but won't hurt it either.

Swings in humidity are normal, just don't let it stay at 50 for too long.

[redshepherd]

It sounds like you're missing a thermostat (not a thermometer) to regulate the UTH... It keeps the UTH from randomly flying to dangerous temperature levels, which it can, so thermostats are a required piece of equipment that should come before everything else.

Log hides aren't ideal, because ball pythons like to be hidden completely and snug, so something with only one small opening.

The hygrometer/thermometer should be the digital kind, which are reliable, not the round analog with the pointers.

This setup guide would help
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

[Stewart_Reptiles]

BP are nocturnal animals and do not require UV light so that is the thing you can turn off and get rid off.

Now you mention heat mat however you do not mention a thermostat, do you have one?

As far as temps I would lower the hot side a bit to 32/33 maximum 35 is really too much, and cool side is fine between 25/28 however if the cool side is 30 I would actually do away with a hot spot all together 30.

Humidity at 80% is really high and not recommended too high of humidity can be as bad as too low.

How do you measure all that (temps and humidity) do you have some analog devices or digital ones? And where do you take your measurement (up on the top, the middle, or at the floor level)?

[Azzymagic]

From what I have read and was told I placed the heat mat under a layer of substrate in the middle of the tank. From what I have felt it seems quite ok.
With the starter kit there was no thermoregualtor but just a simple switch off and on system. I've been quite confused about heating systems as every other internet search I read heat mats are not needed or lights are not needed.
Indeed I have no electrical thermometer or hygrometer but was recommended a dial version which feels quite tacky. it can't even stick to the sides so is quite loose on the ground level. From placing it in different areas humdity varies but temperature seems quite constant.
When I asked the helper at the store I was recommended against smaller hides like say a coconut as there would not be enough room :/

As I'm new to the forum I'm confused how to put the pictures up as it only allows URl links

Thankyou all so much for the help, I'm taking note of everything!

[amrakweno]

Im very new at this and dont even have my snake yet. But have been researching to no end to get my home built right for my new addition soon. Im certain that the UTH or Heating pad should be on the exterior of your tank not inside. Seems only bad things can happen like if the snake moves the substrate and comes in direct contact with it, if water gets spilled on it , it could electrocute or cause a fire. I also read that the UTH should only cover about 1/3 of one side of the tank as to allow for gradual temperature decline from warm side to cool side.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

From what I have read and was told I placed the heat mat under a layer of substrate in the middle of the tank. From what I have felt it seems quite ok.[/QUOTE]It should be placed on one end or another, and you MUST have a thermostat not only to maintain proper temperatures with less fluctuation but also to prevent overheating which lead to bur and fire hazard.

Indeed I have no electrical thermometer or hygrometer but was recommended a dial version which feels quite tacky.

That means your reading are way off and the temperature could actually be even hotter than the one mentioned especially since you cannot really take the temperature above the heat mat with those, you need to get some digital thermometer and hygrometer.

So have the have the heat pad on one end regulated with a thermostat, have one digital thermometer with the probe right above the heat pad, the other on the cool side.

Have your "basking" light on the other side", it may or may not be needed depending on the ambient temperature achieved without it.

Here are some good threads on setting up various enclosures

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...e-Basics-*DUW*

And hatchling setup

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-hatchling-101

[Coluber42]

One more thing to add is that if you just put everything in, give it a couple of days before you freak out about humidity. There's a certain amount of moisture in the substrate when it's in the bag, and it will take awhile to equalize and settle in where it's going to settle. If your humidity over all is too high, increase the ventilation in the cage (exposing more screen top, drilling more air holes). If it's too low, decrease the ventilation (covering screen tops and air holes, etc)
The other thing about humidity is that the % numbers you hear about are *relative* humidity, meaning that it's a percentage of how much moisture the air can hold before it condenses, and that varies with temperature. So the humidity might well be different in different parts of the enclosure where the temperature is different, and that's OK.

You can get an electronic thermometer/hygrometer really cheap and easy, they're just the little digital ones people use in the house. Some come with a wireless (or wired) sensor that you stick outside, and it tells you the temperature inside the house and outside. Get one of those and it will tell you the temperature in two different locations in your enclosure. Acurite is a popular brand, but not the only one.

Hides can be boxes, upside down bowls, tubes, all sorts of things, not just what they have at the store. Flower pot dishes with an entrance cut out are popular.

I know it seems daunting to set up, but once it's all set up, a ball python is one of the easiest pets to care for that there is. Read through the various set-up threads, even the ones about different kinds of enclosures than yours. They'll still help you figure out heating, thermostats, thermometers, hides, etc.

[Azzymagic]

Thankyou for all the advice

I think it's for the best if I take it back. I really love the little snake but I may have made a mistake in affordability. Hopefully in future I will give it a try again.

[redshepherd]

Thankyou for all the advice

I think it's for the best if I take it back. I really love the little snake but I may have made a mistake in affordability. Hopefully in future I will give it a try again.

Aw it's really not all that bad! Especially if you started with a tub setup, instead of the glass tank which takes more management and equipment and thus more cost... A tub setup cost a little under $100 for everything for me, including tongs + hides + soldering iron, and assuming you get the basic Jumpstart thermostat ($25).

The key is don't ask a pet store for advice or buy everything they tell you to buy, no matter how good their reviews/ratings are... They may even be good-natured, but just aren't knowledgable enough themselves. Do thorough research online first, and it will save a lot of trouble and cost!