Reversing Stress in BP

[KingWheatley]

Due both in part to being starved and mistreated at the pet store, and mishandling by myself (as a new owner... I made some pretty crucial and stupid mistakes...) my little ball python is probably in a lot of stress.

He is still quite small, being a baby hatched in late August/early June.

His set-up is finally the way it should be.



the big rock has a small plastic flower cup I got from the gardening section that I got the reddish rock thing. The reddish rock thing has a hole in it to crawl into, and it's hollow all the way to the top. So if he wanted to crawl up there, he could. I moniter the temperature every hour when I'm home using the infrared thermometer. The UTH is on a thermostat set at 90, but I've observed the surface temperature going to 93 before I had to manually shut it off, so I don't really trust it.

This morning, while it was still dark, I misted the enclosure with water, then fed Wheatley a large mouse. He seemed to struggle with it a bit, however, he had no further trouble swallowing it.

Ive read that snakes won't eat when stressed, however he still shows signs of distress when I go to handle him.

He does the "S" shape, is very tense (wide body), huffs, and moves to hide.

He doesn't hiss, strike, or hit me with his loops anymore. And recently he's stopped balling up. After I get him up he relaxes and sniffs around, exploring calmly and shows no signs of stress.

(I don't pick him up after he's eaten, although I did move him a bit today because I thought he was in the other hide when I went to pick the one up to spray water under it...)

Im not sure how stressed Wheatley is at this point.

other than the changes I made to the husbandry, and limiting handling (when not digesting) to maximum of 30 mins a day, what else can I do to decrease fear and stress? Will he grow out of it as he gets bigger?

When I pick him up, I let him see my finger first, so not to startle him, then I pet him a little before I pick him up at the girthy part of his body. I have a natural tremor to my hands and bad neurological control, so sometimes my fingers start to jitter, which could be causing some terror to him.

[fireflii]

You could probably fit a few more hides if you wanted to (which don't hurt). Hides that are open at the bottom and enclosed on all sides are pretty good as opposed to the log hides (open on both sides) and cups (wide opening on one side). I'd also recommend some more leafy decor. You have some, but you can clearly still see how open the tank looks (you'll want to imagine he should feel hidden and safe moving from kne hide to the other).

For the thermostat, if it gets to 93, just lower the thermostat from 90 to 89 and see how it fluxuates then. Thermostats will either maintain a conatant temperatre (like many herpstats) or, as I'm guessing yours is, it will shut off if it gets too hot, so there's no need to manually shut it off.

As for handling, I'd just keep what you're doing. Maybe limit handling to like 5 minutes instead of 30 and then slowly extend it over a few months. Try not to come from above if you can. It sounds like you have a good method though (letting him see you, pet a few times so he knows it's you and it's not feedig time). But if he's relaxing after a few moments, he's probably just scared of the initial movement/handling, especially considering it sounds like it wasn't handled prior to you getting him. I personally also tap the side of my tub theee times before any time I ipen the tub WITHOUT food. I don't know if ball pythons are smart enough to learn or recognize things like that, but I suppose it's worth a shot.

[piedlover79]

Petting is not something a snake understands. You'd be better off just letting the snake see you then pick up from the midsection. Handle as little as possible for the first month to let them settle.

[KingWheatley]

Petting is not something a snake understands. You'd be better off just letting the snake see you then pick up from the midsection.

The petting is something I picked up for people who feed their snake in the enclosure. After a while, they learn that it means you are there to pick them up, rather than feed them.

I do it so he will know when I don't pet him I'm not intending on picking him up/handling him, so he doesn't associate opening the enclosure with just being handled. Especially when I go in there frequently now to mist the cage to keep the humidity where it needs to be, and verify the temperature is in a good range.

Im aware that they don't understand petting as an affection sort of thing. I don't think they could understand that, since they don't play, or do anything recreationally, I think they can't feel pleasure. Or if they do, it's simply the thrill of "catching" food.

[Prognathodon]

In addition to more leafy stuff (or even crumpled-up paper, cover the back and one or both short ends of the tank - I've used aquarium backgrounds, but even plain white copier/printer paper is fine. Just tape it on the outside of the tank. That will provide more security than transparent glass walls.


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[Stewart_Reptiles]

You really want to have a stress free BP downsize the enclosure size until your BP is 200 grams.

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[KingWheatley]

You really want to have a stress free BP downsize the enclosure size until your BP is 200 grams.

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it looks larger than it really is. It's crowded and half the tank is blocked off. Which works for me because that side gets to 68. And with how I set up the hides, it blocks the cold air from the air conditioner and the cool side he can reach only gets down to 75-77. The warm side has been consistent now between 85-95

[KingWheatley]

In addition to more leafy stuff (or even crumpled-up paper, cover the back and one or both short ends of the tank - I've used aquarium backgrounds, but even plain white copier/printer paper is fine. Just tape it on the outside of the tank. That will provide more security than transparent glass walls.


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I was considering using a sheet, but paper sounds better!

[The Golem]

I monitor the temperature every hour when I'm home using the infrared thermometer.
...and limiting handling (when not digesting) to maximum of 30 mins a day, what else can I do to decrease fear and stress? Will he grow out of it as he gets bigger?

The best thing you can do for your BP is leave it alone. You don't need to monitor every hour, and should not handle every day. In my opinion.

Also, wrap 3 outer sides of the enclosure to help the snake feel more secure. I used a 'desert' looking vinyl background bought from local pet store, they sell this stuff by the foot off a roll.



But you could use anything,

KingWheatley[/B]]Im aware that they don't understand petting as an affection sort of thing. I don't think they could understand that, since they don't play, or do anything recreationally, I think they can't feel pleasure. Or if they do, it's simply the thrill of "catching" food.

I haven't taught them to fetch yet - but there are a few 'games' or activities I play with my snakes.

[Ba11er]

Don't forget to check your humidity and keep it around 55 - 60 %. A towel across a portion of the top or something hold in the moisture will help maintain and keep humidity.