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  1. #1
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    Question UTH question, new python & herp keeper

    Hello, new here, first post, as many others probably did I found my way here after our family purchased a ball python and set up its home based on Petsmart recommendations instead of doing some research. Has been a struggle since then to maintain humidity in the glass tank with screen top, no surprise to you all. I am now looking at a UTH for the hot side to keep from drying the air out with the heat lamp. My question is - will this particular heater http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultrath...ater-uth-6-x11 require a thermostat in a 10 gal tank? The website says that it may not be needed since this model has such a low wattage density, it shouldn't get hot enough to risk burning the animal. Does the council concur?

    We believe our python is around 4-5 months old, he's about 18 inches long, good appetite so far. I know that we will have to go up in size from the 10 gal fairly soon, but for now I just want to get a "functional" setup going that doesn't require frequent misting, while we plan for longer term habitat.

    Side question, my daughter is afraid to feed him more often than exactly once every 7 days, even though he seems hungry by day 5-6. Ok to feed him sooner while he's young and growing fast?

  2. #2
    Sometimes It Hurts... PitOnTheProwl's Avatar
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    ANY UTH should be regulated.

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    bcr229 (07-06-2016)

  4. #3
    BPnet Senior Member BMorrison's Avatar
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    Re: UTH question, new python & herp keeper

    Always thermostat.

    You can feed them every 5 days when they're young. My little noodles are offered every 5 days, I'll feed them like that until they hit around 700 grams and then up the length between feeding to 7-10 days my female mojo is tipping 1700 now and I feed her small or medium rats every 14 days. Hope this helps!


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    BPnet Veteran chrid16371's Avatar
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    Re: UTH question, new python & herp keeper

    Yes you must use a thermostat. If the room temp rises the heat pad will also.

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    Yes you need a thermostat.

    Also when it's time to upgrade his enclosure I would recommend a Sterilite latch-box style tub instead of another tank. The UTH and thermostat will work just fine on it, and you won't have any issues with humidity.

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    Re: UTH question, new python & herp keeper

    [QUOTE=Jarvis the Python;2454103]Hello, new here, first post, as many others probably did I found my way here after our family purchased a ball python and set up its home based on Petsmart recommendations instead of doing some research. Has been a struggle since then to maintain humidity in the glass tank with screen top, no surprise to you all.
    /QUOTE]

    I have the same temporary set up for a young one that I have and the best advice that I can give is to not leave the heat lamp on all the time. I only turn mine on for short times to regulate the temperature and the humidity stays around 60. I have a larger glass tank with a screen top and heat lamp for my older female and again same thing, leave the light on for short periods for her to bask in and regulate the temperature and both are healthy and fine. I will be upgrading to stackable enclosures when I find the right ones that I like. No need for 3 random tanks in the house.

    Hope this helps.
    Jess

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    Super Moderator bcr229's Avatar
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    Re: UTH question, new python & herp keeper

    Quote Originally Posted by JAW1981 View Post
    I will be upgrading to stackable enclosures when I find the right ones that I like. No need for 3 random tanks in the house.
    In VA Home Depot carries PVC sheet. If you're at all handy with tools you can DIY some enclosures very easily.

  9. #8
    BPnet Veteran LittleTreeGuy's Avatar
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    I agree with the others... ANY heat source MUST be on a thermostat. There just really isn't a safe alternative to this. Yes, a good thermostat is expensive, but it's probably the single most important fixture for keeping your BP. There are several tricks you can do with a screen top to help a little with humidity. Getting a piece of plexi-glass to cover part of the top, or covering as much as possible with aluminum foil will help too. Add an extra water bowl, or a bowl with a handful of sphagnum moss in it that is watered down will help add some humidity. Spend some money on a good thermostat and some good thermometers/hygrometers and you won't be disappointed. I promise.

    As for the feeding, you can feed anywhere from 5-7 days until they start to mature, then you can go a little longer in between if you want. I fed my bp every 5 days until she was about 200g, and then I went to every 6 days. She's now about 500g and I'm going to every 7 days, as her meals are getting a bit larger.
    0.1 BP - Mojave - Lexi
    1.0 Bearded Dragon - Thunder (RIP)
    0.1 Bearded Dragon - Lightning



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