New baby snake won't eat, losing weight?

[cyrus]

Hi- I just got a ball python about a week and a half ago.

The person I got him from told me he ate last about a week ago, and should be ready any time soon.

He's only a couple of months old (not sure the hatch date) and is about 47cm long, weighing in at 71 grams.

Last time I checked he was 74, and I'm very worried.

He hasn't eaten yet, I've tried twice (f/t hoppers).

I have a thermostat, hygro/thermo, and point-and-click thermometer on the way in the mail, but currently the temperatures lie around 78-79 on the cold side, and around 88-90 on the hot side (belly heat). This is in a 20g tank.

I've had to switch entirely to the heat pad on the warm side because my bulb has been overheating (I switch from bulb to mat overnight) and bringing the temperature to 105, but he mainly stays in the middle in a rock hide (which I assume would be cold because the mat is very small).

Any advice on how to get him to eat? I'm very worried and I don't know if I should wait a full week to try feeding again due to his weight.

Please let me know if this is an ok weight for a roughly 18 inch baby or if I should do something.

[JodanOrNoDan]

Check this out.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

In addition...
Tanks and lights are hard to manage. I would look at putting the animal in a tub.

If the animal just ate a week ago, this is not an emergency situation and it should be fine. If you are going to own a ball python you are going to drive yourself nuts if you worry about them eating. There are a lot of threads on here about feeding issues full of good information. Worry about if the animal looks healthy or not. Post a picture if you are really concerned and we can let you know how the animal looks.

[Willowy]

They can go many months before starving. So don't panic. My little guy didn't eat for 3 weeks after I got him home, then only had a few meals before going on a 6-week fast! But now he slams every meal.

First off, unplug the heat mat until you get the thermostat. . .this won't do anything to get him to eat, but if he burrows down to the glass he could be burned.

This is what I did with my little dude, no guarantee it's actually what got him to eat or that it will work for any other snakes: after getting the heat and humidity worked out, I covered the tank with towels so he wouldn't get scared of people or cats wandering by his tank. I stuffed his hides half-full with paper towels so he would feel snug. I didn't handle him at all, just peeked under his hide now and then to make sure he was OK. I offered food about every 4 days.

Don't attempt a feeding too often or he'll get stressed. Also try different methods of presentation---some snakes like their f/t meals to do a little dance or "run" around the tank (with tongs!), some prefer for you to just set it down and leave. How are you warming his meals? Sometimes the thawing/warming method makes a difference.

[PitOnTheProwl]

What temperature are you keeping at 105?? 95 degrees is the max surface temperature you want.

Second was he eating f/t when you got him?
74g isnt very old at all unless he hasnt eaten but once or twice out of the egg.
Live hopper mouse may do the trick.

[LittleTreeGuy]

1. What are you using to measure your temps with now?
2. What kind of substrate is he on, if any?
3. What is the humidity in the tank, currently?

My BP was 2 months old when I got her, and she weighed 64g. The weight you mentioned isn't so awfully low I'd be worried, it's just a young snake. When will your thermostat be here? I would leave him be for a few days. Once you get your thermostat, get the temperatures and humidity where they need to be and are consistent for a day or two, then try to feed him again. It's likely that he's still adjusting to his new home, and the fact that the temperatures maybe aren't exactly what he likes, he may not be comfortable to eat. Get the husbandry in check, then offer food again.

How are you preparing your F/T mouse? I'm sure it's more related to relocation stress and husbandry, but just in case...

Also, if you can upload a picture of your current setup, perhaps more advice or suggestions can be given to help you out.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

3 grams is NOTHING, get your husbandry on track and it will eat for you.

Get a 6 quarts tub (your enclosure is WAY TOO BIG.

Use aspen as bedding

Provide a hot spot of 86/88

Use a 6 inches plastic flower pot saucer as hide.

Leave your snake alone for a week while getting used to his new setup (NO HANDLING, not until your snake eat for you)

After a week offer a LIVE hopper mouse at this size he is no consistent on F/T and the priority is to get the animal to eat.

When you offer the food do so in the enclosure by dropping the mouse and closing the tub, remove if uneaten within 15/20 min.


As long as you do not address the husbandry your BP will not feed for you, it's a typical issue for new owner.

They can go many months before starving. So don't panic.

Not at 71 grams, at that size the issue need to be addressed asap rather than give the OP a false sense of security.

[cyrus]

I'm only replying to one response at the moment (multiple are overwhelming but I'm trying to get the most answers out to all of the questions). Sorry this will be pretty all over the place.

I prefer to keep the ball python in the tank as opposed to a tub. It makes me feel more secure in the safety of the snake in my own personal home environment (due to having cats that need to roam around all rooms of my apartment, and also having pet rats that are large enough to kill him easily). I don't mind the maintenance of a tank either- it helps keep me more organized/scheduled. I'm pretty firm in that decision there.

I think one of the reasons I'm worried most at the moment is that one of my rats died the other morning, so I'm kinda on pet worry overdrive.

In terms of feeding- I thaw out a hopper in a cup full of warm water until the mouse doesn't have any cold spots and can be kinda mushed (not like, actually mushy though). I made it dance around a little but since I've just recently gotten him (and there must be a few kinks to work out with the husbandry), he just wasn't interested.

To address the size- I have multiple hides all across the tank, as many as I could fit comfortably without making it cramped/awkward. As well as a fake plant he likes to hide in too (and I plan on getting a few more). It's also just long enough that he could stretch out his entire body and have a little bit extra room, which he seems to enjoy doing as I watch him roam around.

But I was just in contact with the seller- he hatched March 12th of this year, so he's just over 2 months weighing in at 71 grams. Here's a picture of him all balled up:



To PitOnTheProwl: I'm sorry, you must have misread what I wrote (or I wrote it in a confusing way). What I meant was that I've had to stop using my heat bulb until the thermostat comes in, because it was overheating the tank. My hottest surface is now around 90 degrees.

Now, to address the comment I'm replying to:

1. At the moment I just have a stick-in thermometer that I move to different parts of the tank to check the temperature. Everything else should be coming in the mail tomorrow (thermostat, point-and-shoot thermometer, thermometer/hygrometer probe with max/min temperature tracking).

2. The substrate is aspen (it came with the tank among other items). Once this is used up, I'll prefer to use a more affordable substrate- any efficient/cheap suggestions?

3. I'm not sure of the humidity due to waiting on the hygrometer (it should have come earlier but there was an issue with shipping- I intended to have it right away but my package was re-routed).

I plan on taking care of any husbandry issues as soon as I get my package tomorrow, which hopefully should improve his willingness to eat.

My main question now I suppose is, considering his age, size, weight, and appearance- should I be worried?

[Stewart_Reptiles]

This is not about what makes YOU feel comfortable it is about what needs to be done temporarily until the animal reaches 200/250 grams, if you can't or are not willing to make changes PROVEN to work it's OK too it's your snake. Tanks especially 20 gallons even with multiple hide just don't cut it.

You ask for advice your issue are husbandry related.


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[LittleTreeGuy]

His weight is fine for his age. I think paper towels are the easiest and cheapest substrate you can use. Not super pretty, but they let you see as soon as there is any kind of waste or mess in there. Cheap, easy, and the snakes do fine with them.

Once you get your thermostat/probe in place, and you are able to check your temps and monitor them better, you'll find they're likely off more than you think. Like has been said, get that stuff in order, wait 5 or 6 days with no handling, with temps in check and humidity between 50-70% and I bet the next time you offer, he'll eat.

Sounds like your thawing out the prey pretty well. One thing I'll suggest that has helped me. After letting it thaw out, right before I take it to offer the snake, I put the baggie with the rat in it in a little bowl/container with the hottest tap water I can get. It will just help your bp pick up on the heat signature a little better. Some people use a hair dryer... whatever works best for you.

Keep us posted.