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  1. #1
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    Temperature in cold spot

    Hi guys. I'm from Argentina. I'm new to these forums and a couple of months new to ball pythons, although i'm not new to reptiles.
    Last september I bought an adult Mojave male and an adult nominal female and this year I want to breed them.
    I haven't stopped reading since new year and I have a couple of questions about breeding and husbandry.

    I've already made a temperature cycle plan for this year. I bought a thermostat along with flexwatt and builded the cages where my animals are.
    Right now it's summer here. The temp in the basking spot it's around 33-30C (from the very center to the surroundings) and the cold spot is 27-28C. In Fº thats 91-86 in the hotspot and 82 in the cold spot.
    The snakes are being kept in the general reptile/plant room.
    My idea is to lower the flexwatt temp to 26C (80F) in the hotspot during the night. But here's the issue: I have a Gas heater in my reptile room which I turn on during winter to keep my animals warm all the time. Because of this, I'm going to have to move my Ball pythons outside my reptile room. That will mean that I'll be able to control my hotspot temperature but I won't be able to control the cold spot temperature so much.
    So my question is: How do you guys do to control the temperature in your cold spot during winter time when temperatures can get cold? (Here we rarely see temps below 10c (50f) OUTSIDE the house, meaning inside the house we are around 60F, but that's too cold for a ball python) Will the flexwatt be enough to heat up the rest of the terrarium? If not, what else can I use to heat it up and how do I control it having in mind I want to breed?


    Thank you in advance and forgive me, i'm a newbie.

  2. #2
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: Temperature in cold spot

    My ambient temperture during the winter is achieved with oil filled heater plugged into a thermostat. I keep the room at 75.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Stewart_Reptiles; 01-30-2016 at 07:24 PM.
    Deborah Stewart


  3. #3
    Registered User lexanidubs09's Avatar
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    I read in another similar thread a few people recommended placing an UTH on the cool side on a thermostat and just keep the temps lower on the cool side than you would with the hot side. I'm not positive this will work though as I've never personally had the need to do this due to the climate I live in. Good luck getting your temps proper and best of luck on a successful first breeding season.

  4. #4
    Registered User Skeletor's Avatar
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    Use a RHP inside the cage on one side of the ceiling.. It helps to have a low ceiling cage like 12 inches, no need for a tall cage with a BP. The RHP heats up the hot area and as you go to the other side of the cage it's cooler. They don't really need to be heated from the floor on the outside of the cage. The only reason for that is so they don't get burned and the tape doesn't get wet and shorted out. A RHP is at a lower temp because it's inside the cage and they cant lay on it (its on the roof). In my opinion and experience it's easier to run a cage with RHP. A RHP will heat the warm side floor plenty for the BP to lay on...the cage will have a good swing in temps from cool to warm...the overall ambient temp will be around 80. It's just seems easier to heat a cage from the inside because the RHP acts like the sun and warms up objects in the cage. I have a large dark tile on the warm side. That thing is always like 88 degrees on average and I will see 90 around it also. To check ambient temps with a RHP...you have to hide the temp probe from the RHP...it acts like the suns rays. I will shield the temp probe from the RHP to get an ambient air temp reading in the cool area, the middle and the hot area.
    Last edited by Skeletor; 01-30-2016 at 09:21 PM.

  5. #5
    Registered User Skeletor's Avatar
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    I forgot to mention...I control the RHP (radiant heat panel) with a VE-300 thermostat. You can program day and night temps if you are breeding.

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