Too Scared to eat?

[ChelseaV]

A while back I posted on here that I was having issues with one of my young females trying to strike me all the time. I received plenty of good advice and have been doing my best to implement what I was told to do with her.
Well, she hasn't gotten any better. I know it hasn't been too long and I should give her more time but I'm worried about her eating habits.
She's refusing to eat for me. Its been 2 weeks, I know that's not very long compared to some of you who've had them fast for months on end but every keeps telling me that the more aggressive and snappier ball pythons are the best eaters and with her it's not the case. I feel like at this point, she's too stressed to eat. I put her food in last week and just opening her tub freaked her and yesterday when I attempted to feed her again, she struck out at the rat as if it were me, in a defensive manner. Definitely not feeding behavior. She's constantly puffed up, constantly on edge and at this point I'm being to feel like I have no clue how to help her relax. I've never ever had a ball python like this before, all my others adjusted easily and eat like pigs.
I could really use the advice and guidance of the experienced members in here because I feel like I'm failing with her.

And to save time in responses, she lives in an enclosed rack and I even have her an addition hide. Temperatures are monitored daily with thermometers and temp guns. She's in a 15 qt bin right now and weighs around 480-490 grams. (hard to weigh her when she won't unstiffen her body to fit on the scale)

[M.P.C]

Your problem is your not leaving her alone... Stop trying to feed her weekly if you can clearly see she is still all stressed out. Leave her alone for 2 weeks and then try to feed her again

[Streller]

I haven't seen the advice that you have received, and I am sure that people have already tried to help you revise your husbandry . Only other thing would be to leave her be, as if she was a new arrival again, so she can acclimate to her surroundings and get comfortable. As M.P.C said, try 2 weeks of no contact unless it's required, such as changing water.

[ChelseaV]

Yeah, I don't think it's a husbandry issue, i made sure all the temps were on point before I moved them into this rack but I'm sure there's always room for improvement.

And to be completely honest, for the last couple of week I've handled her probably less than a handful of times. She only comes out of I need to change her bedding (she likes to tip her water over) but other than that, I've been pretty much leaving her alone already because any attempt of handling usually results in a lot of hissing and puffing up and striking.
I'll hold off on feeding her for a couple weeks and see if that helps her.
Thanks guys.

[M.P.C]

And just so you know if your being timid and backing away from picking her up everytime she snaps at you, its only reinforcing the behavior, she now knows if she acts that way she is basically left alone... If your going to pick her up be steady, firm and unflinching

[ChelseaV]

And just so you know if your being timid and backing away from picking her up everytime she snaps at you, its only reinforcing the behavior, she now knows if she acts that way she is basically left alone... If your going to pick her up be steady, firm and unflinching

This!
This is probably a big issue with her! I need to work on this the most. She's already tagged me before and it's not so bad but it's such a natural instinct for me to yank my hand back and I think I'm probably only hurting any progress more by doing so. Thank you!
I'm going to leave her alone like suggested and than when I do go to start handling her again, I'm going to use your advice wisely!

[Streller]

Best of luck, I hope it works out.

[rlditmars]

I didn't see your other thread so I'll ask the obvious question. Is she being fed live or FT? If it is FT then I would suggest switching to live for now and then switching back once you have reestablished a more routine eating schedule. If it is live she is refusing then I am at a loss other than suggesting to use mice if it is rats you are trying, or vice versa.

[LittleTreeGuy]

Here is something I do, as it was suggested to me, and I believe it works... but it's only my opinion... Get yourself a bottle of hand sanitizer and keep it on your rack. EVERY TIME before you open her enclosure, use the hand sanitizer on your hands. Let the snake get used to this scent. In time, the snake should connect that scent with "no threat" and "not food".


It may not help, but may be worth a shot.

Best of luck!!

[O'Mathghamhna]

I would get a heavier water dish as well so she doesn't keep knocking it over. I think at this point even opening the rack is adding to her stress. She needs to be left COMPLETELY alone for two weeks. If unable to use a larger water bowl, maybe move her to a tank where you can implement the proper hides, water dish, etc. Remember too, if she's in a rack and other racks are being opened, she is feeling the vibrations of those and might be constantly on edge because she is being disturbed even though you don't mean to.

As far as the handling goes, I totally agree--you must be confident in reaching in there. It's so tough! Especially once you get tagged! Although I just remember that bites startle me more than hurt me. Also, as hard as it is, try to retrain your instincts to suddenly draw back. If one of your snakes bites, and you snatch your hand back suddenly, you could pull her teeth out which can lead to starvation (not to mention a heck of an infection for you). If you need to wear gloves until you're able to confidently reach in there, I recommend something leather (Kevlar if you wanna spend money/use them for bigger snakes).

And finally, just breathe A lot of us get bent out of shape when our snakeys don't eat the way we like. I had a BP that fasted for a whopping 5 months--only to find out that she laid eggs (all slugs). Then she started eating like a champ again. All that worry for nothing! So just be patient, and good luck!