Soon to be BP owner - A few questions

[ThatGuyEli]

Hey everyone. I'm going to the Reptile Super Show in January and I'm hoping to get my first ball python there. But I have a few questions.

Will a 20gal long be big enough to house an adult?

Cypress mulch or aspen bedding? I prefer the look of cypress but I'm already using aspen for my corn snake.

I'm a little confused as to what size mouse/rat to start off with. Do hatchlings eat pinkies? Mice or rats?

Is there any difference in care/temperament based on whether I get a male or a female?

Also, would you guys mind posting pics of your setups? I find it really helps me set up my own. Thanks!



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[CloudtheBoa]

1) Probably not. I like to use the Length+Width rule for my snakes, so as long as the enclosure's long and short side are equal to or longer than the snake's length, you're good. You can go as big as you want, I'd just avoid going smaller if possible. It's been pointed out on here to make sure snakes eat properly and get enough exercise due to the risk of fatty liver disease, so providing enough room is really important.

2) It's completely up to you, both are good options. Both will need to be maintained in different ways. My preferred bedding is EcoEarth, if you wanted to consider it. It's way cheaper than the aspen I've been able to find ($10 for 8.8 liters when I can get 21-28 liters of EE for $7), and easier to locate than cypress mulch in my experience. I haven't looked for cypress mulch beyond pet stores, though because EcoEarth is so cheap and easy overall, as well as non-reptile cypress mulch coming from uncertified sources. lol

***Just as a warning, EcoEarth doesn't work as well in belly heat set ups, I've found it becomes a mold carpet because the bedding doesn't dry out fast enough. Doesn't matter how much air flow I offer, or how dry I keep the EcoEarth, if it's the slightest bit damp here comes the mold.

3) The general consensus seems to be to start them off on rats, ball pythons can be hard to switch. They should be able to start on rat fuzzies at least, but 10-15% every 5-7 days seems to be the usual advice, but that size every 7 days should be plenty. I believe the 10-15% rule is used until they're 500 grams (correct me if I'm wrong). I don't really use this rule, I go off girth/bulge size, but the posts I read on it seemed to say this.

4) Not that I can tell.

[ThatGuyEli]

So I can use a heat lamp in place of an UTH?

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[CloudtheBoa]

I'd advise an RHP or CHE over a heat lamp if possible, since heat lamps put off light, and even red/black/purple light can disrupt their day/night cycles.

You should give special attention to humidity with overhead heat, though, as it can dry out the air if you don't offer humidity properly since it actually evaporates water. Aspen most likely wouldn't work too well in this sort of set up, since it molds so easy. Aspen does well in belly heat set ups because belly heat doesn't dry the bedding or air, so the aspen isn't needing to provide your humidity.

RHPs are designed to heat surfaces specifically, not so much ambients, so you will still need to keep the room the snake is in fairly warm to maintain temps, and CHEs burn very hot so you must make/buy a bulb cage for it, or keep the bulb outside the enclosure. Also make sure the lamp has a ceramic base, not a metal base, as CHEs can ruin a regular heat lamp.

If you're going to use a tank with overhead heat, you will also be looking forward to some moderate to extensive modification to keep proper humidity levels, as the screen top will let the vast majority of your humidity out in a relatively short amount of time.

If you've got the money or know-how I'd suggest a PVC enclosure or custom wooden enclosure over a glass tank.

[JessicaK]

I just got my BP today and here's what I've learned so far. Correct me if I'm wrong. First, I was told to use Cyprus mulch over aspen because it maintains humidity better. I was also told to use a smaller cage for a smaller snake or clutter the tank with foliage and hides so help him feel secure. Be careful with UTH because they can burn your snake if they aren't used with a thermostat? I was also given a fuzzy rat for him to eat tomorrow because that's what they fed him. They said it can be 100%- 115% the size of the snakes widest point? True or untrue?


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[erich_7719]

That sounds about right. Although I personally prefer Shredded Aspen, more so for the looks and ease of clean up. I also try not go go over 100% the widest girth for sizing the rodent. I'll check if I have a pic of my set up in a little bit. If I don't I'll try to remember to get one in the morning.

[CloudtheBoa]

Yes cypress mulch holds humidity better.

Size of cage doesn't matter as long as it meets the minimum. You could put your baby straight into an adult enclosure if you wish. You'd just have to clutter it to make it feel secure, and if you use sliding glass doors a baby could squeeze in between the gap. Which is why I wait to upgrade snakes until they're 3'-3.5'.

All heating elements must be on a thermostat.

Yes, 1-1.5x the girth is a good rule. You want a good-sized lump in a baby ball python. Not so much with an adult.


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[ThatGuyEli]

I'd advise an RHP or CHE over a heat lamp if possible, since heat lamps put off light, and even red/black/purple light can disrupt their day/night cycles.

You should give special attention to humidity with overhead heat, though, as it can dry out the air if you don't offer humidity properly since it actually evaporates water. Aspen most likely wouldn't work too well in this sort of set up, since it molds so easy. Aspen does well in belly heat set ups because belly heat doesn't dry the bedding or air, so the aspen isn't needing to provide your humidity.

RHPs are designed to heat surfaces specifically, not so much ambients, so you will still need to keep the room the snake is in fairly warm to maintain temps, and CHEs burn very hot so you must make/buy a bulb cage for it, or keep the bulb outside the enclosure. Also make sure the lamp has a ceramic base, not a metal base, as CHEs can ruin a regular heat lamp.

If you're going to use a tank with overhead heat, you will also be looking forward to some moderate to extensive modification to keep proper humidity levels, as the screen top will let the vast majority of your humidity out in a relatively short amount of time.

If you've got the money or know-how I'd suggest a PVC enclosure or custom wooden enclosure over a glass tank.

What exactly are RHP's? And if I were to use a CHE, what wattage would be appropriate?

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[CloudtheBoa]

RHPs are Radiant Heat Panels. They provide heat in the same way that the sun does: by warming surface temps to an extreme degree and ambient less so. With a probe set close to the surfaces it's heating, it's easy to keep surface temperatures where they need to be.

Because of the way RHPs are meant to work, they should not be mounted to the side as I see advised. This is inefficient and defeats the purpose of the panel itself.

Wattage of the CHE depends on the temp of the room, insulation of the cage, and the size of the area you're trying to heat. I use a 100 watt to heat one side of my 6' enclosure, but it's 3' tall and heat escapes easily out of the glass front. So the room has to be kept warm as well.


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[JakeFromSnakeFarm]

some of the best advice i can give is to get your tank set up long before you actually get your snake. Glass tanks can be hard to maintain the heat and humidity (as i found out with my first BP Jake). Make sure that you get some kind of belly heat for them and ALWAYS put it on a good reliable thermostat. This is one of those cases where you usually get what you pay for. I like the herpstat, but theres also a decent one on amazon you could use if you're just doing the one small tank. Set your tank up like a week in advance and see what all it takes to maintain the proper heat and humidity that your snake needs. That way when you actually get your new buddy, you aren't learning on the fly, and potentially harming him/her.

As for feeding, I like to feed live or fresh killed (just a preference), but i also like to stick to rats over mice. Hatchlings can usually eat something around the size of a hopper mouse. The 10-15% rule I also think is a great idea for the first while in the snakes life. Gives you an idea of how heavy the food should be. Just keep in mind that the girth of the rat should be just slightly bigger than the larges area on your snake. Best of luck and I hope all goes well.