New with a few questions

[serfoxtrot]

Hey guys, I'm new and need a little advice. I plan on getting a ball python next spring when I finally get my own apartment. I've been looking at getting one for a few years and have been finding out as much as I can, but I just want to cover my bases and finally ask for the major highlights.

First, I live in the Morgantown,WV -- Pittsburgh, PA area and was wondering if there were any recommended places to get a bp as I know of zero places that aren't a pet-store.

Also, if there is anything other than scale rot that I should watch out for.

Anything helpful that you think I should know is much appreciated.

Thanks!

[BCS]

I am not sure about breeders in your general area. Usually reptile shops will have reptile expos advertised which is a really good place to meet local breeders.

As for things to look for. It is pretty easy to spot if something is wrong with the snake. Skinny and malnourished. Popping, wheezing, limpness are signs of an RI. Size can also play a big part. The breeder should know or at least have a general idea of when the snake was hatched. You have a good idea that the snake may have feeding issues if a snake is 500g but 2 years old. It is always good to inquire the breeder of this to see if the feeding issue is resolved. Stuck sheds may also be something to look for. I usually will still purchase a snake with a stuck shed, but I also know how to fix the issue. Someone new to the hobby may want to stay away from a snake who has a stuck shed, especially the eye caps. Also the gender. It is good that you ask the breeder to either pop or probe the snake before taking it home just to be sure you are paying for what you purchased. Most knowledgeable breeders should be able to do this. Females are typically more expensive then males. Of course this is not always the case if you are getting a snake shipped. In this case you may want to inquire about pictures.

Most well known and high end breeders have healthy snakes and buying from them should have no problems. It is a good reason why you should avoid petshops chains like petco, Pet Smart and so on. Another good place to find breeders in your area is world of ball pythons. They have a list. Not all breeders are on it but many good ones are.

[bcr229]

If you're on Facebook, the groups "West Virginia Reptile and Exotic Animal Buy/Sell/Trade" and "WV Reptiles" are a good place to start looking.

Also if you're moving into an apartment make sure it specifies in the lease that you can have a snake as a pet, some landlords get freaked out.

[ajmreptiles]

you can look up the Steel City Reptile Expo http://steelcityreptileexpo.com/ at these shows you'll be able to pick out your dream snake from a number of local breeders

things to look out for other than scale rot, are respiratory infections and mites. You can usually pick up a can of prevent-a-mite at these reptile shows for around $15-20. RI is basically the common cold for your snake and can be bacterial, fungal, or viral so it would also be a good idea to find a good herp vet before you get your snake

http://arav.allenpress.com/arav/findavet is a good site to find a reptile vet in or around your area listed by state

and lastly many others here will be able to help with just about anything. Just be sure to post pictures of your new snake when you get him. (some might say its mandatory)

[serfoxtrot]

Thank you so much for all the help! I will definitely look into the expo!

[serfoxtrot]

And it seems I won't be around for the steel city expo… =\

[I-KandyReptiles]

Thought I'd just post my caresheet for you.

When picking your snake, be sure to look it over well. A lot of people get excited and forget and then come home and realize it has mites or bite marks or a respiratory infection. Most of these are fairly easy to spot.

TANK:

Any type of heat source, whether it's a lamp or heat pad MUST be regulated. Heat pads will reach unsafe temperatures in a matter of minutes. You MUST have a thermostat.

The best you can buy are herpstats.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com

The cheaper option:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...ords=Hydrofarm

When you get your thermoSTAT, you plug your heat pad into it. You take your probe and secure it OVER the heat pad on the OUTSIDE of your tank.

Do NOT have the thermoSTAT probe inside the tank, as your snake can move it, pee on it, and will ultimately screw up your probe reading.

If you use a lamp, which most will suggest against, buy a light dimmer. They're about $10 from home depot and allow you to adjust how much heat is coming from the lamp.

Lamps will kill your humidity. Many will suggest covering half your lid with tinfoil/plexiglass/wet cloth. Misting will also help. Also, do not get white bulbs.

After your thermostat, a temp gun will be a wise investment. Or you can purchase a digital thermometer with probe. Many will suggest an Accurite, while others disagree. If you get an Accurite, you place the entire unit in the cage. The probed bit will be secured on top of the glass over your heat pad so you are able to monitor and be sure your thermostat is working properly. The unit goes on your "cool" side to monitor ambient temperatures.

You are aiming for:

Hot spot: 88-91 degrees
Cool side: 78-80 degrees
Humidity: 50%

When your snake goes into shed, you will need to boost your humidity up to 60-70%.

Inside your tank you will need:

-two identical hides. Find ones that are small enough to wrap your ball python around all sides and only have one entrance. Those log hides at the pet stores are terrible. One goes on the warm side, the other on the cool side.

-Water dish. If you get a large water dish, you can place it somewhat over your heat pad to help even more with humidity.

-Proper substrate. If you are using a tank, id suggest Eco earth or coco fibre as they help hold in humidity.

TUBS:

If you are able to keep your room at a stable 80 degrees, you will be able to keep your ball python in a tub set up.

Tub set ups may not be the prettiest, but are much easier to maintain humidity than a tank.

Find a large Rubbermaid container with a locking lid. Depending on your room humidity, drill holes along the sides using a soldering drill. The amount of holes will vary. Be careful as you can add more, but can't cover them up if you drill too many.

Just like a tank, you will place the heat pad on one side of the tub, with the thermoSTAT probe over the heat tape. With a thermostat, you will not have to worry about the tub melting as it should never get over 92 degrees.

Set your tub up like a tank. Add your substrate, water dish, hides and thermometers. You can also add fake leaves and branches.

FEEDING:

You'd be surprised to learn that hatchling ball pythons can eat hopper sized mice right out of the egg.

I'd suggest going to Walmart and picking up a cheap kitchen scale to monitor your baby's weight.

Babies can generally eat 10-15% of their weight every 5-7 days.

I feed my mouse eaters and babies on a 5 day schedule. My rat eaters are fed every 7 days.

As your snake gets older, try to match their food with the thickest part of their body.

Once you get your set up done, leave your snake alone for a week. The only time you are in the cage is to change water and clean poo. No touching him/her. Once the week is over, offer your mouse. I'm sure they'll take it.



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[serfoxtrot]

Thank you for the care sheet!

I read that you're supposed to feed in a different spot. Does that start with the second feeding after that first week, or can you just jump in to that?
Sorry if that sentence is confusing. I had a hard time getting the wording to make since even to me…

[frostysBP]

You don't need to feed in a different enclosure.that is a myth about cage aggression do to feeding in their enclosure..

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[I-KandyReptiles]

You don't need to feed in a different enclosure.that is a myth about cage aggression do to feeding in their enclosure..

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In fact, you're more likely to get bit trying to move a snake that's in feeding mode.


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