New Parent; Help!

[Rue]

Hi there, I'm a first time parent to my new Colombian Red Tail Boa seeking general advice in almost every category (I apologize in advance!)

Overview

• Purchased Friday March 13th, 2015
• Colombian Red Tail Boa (The store owner told me he is a Red Tail Python, this being my first snake I didn't know until i posted in ball python forum and they redirected me to Boa Forum which unfortunately means all my research starts over)
• Named RUE (Former name was Shiloh, which wasn't fitting in my opinion)
• He is currently 4 1/2 years old (no documentation or records to prove it, store owner was in possession of him since July of 2014)

• He is approximately 4 1/2 feet long.

• His skin is shiny, silky, very soft.

• He appears healthy, no RI or other illness symptoms.

• Rue is also very alert to things around his tank, He sees my pit bull walking around the room and recognizes when I return home from work.

Feeding

• Rue eats LIVE rats; The store owner educated me on the benefits from feeding live rats.

I have a concern when it comes to feeding live rats. During the second feed, while Rue was uncoiling I noticed the rat had BIT him underneath his jaw. Though I didn't see any wounds and he wasn't bleeding from the bite, I'm worried about the possibilities and complications that come with feeding live rats. As soon as I saw him uncoil I called the reptile store owner and she reassured me that sometimes they do get bit, she walked me thru looking at the wound as well as having me explain the situation. She does sell frozen/thawed rats if i so choose to change from live rats. I want Rue to be able to have the nutritional value from live as well as keeping his hunting skills strong. I'm just worried he will get wounded from a bad bite. Any advice on what to do if he does get bite very badly? Or even a small bite that makes him bleed?

• I always sanitize when it comes to handling Rue, but when it comes to feeding I sanitize 3x more without even thinking about it (my poor hands....they get so dry)
• Rue has a very healthy appetite; everything related with feeding goes very smoothly. Rue is quick to recognize there is prey and coils very fast. He has never hissed, or struck at me before/after feeding.
• I was advised that rue is conditioned to eating in his enclosure. After all the research though I wasn't comfortable with the idea, I decided to purchase a LARGE (2ft x 3ft) see-thru plastic container from Walmart for feeding. Its a typical container with latching sides but when I feed Rue I usually only put the lid on 2/3rd's of the way with a towel so he feels secure with enough privacy. Honestly, I'm not comfortable with putting the lid on all the way or even latching with fear he won't have enough air.
• I leave Rue in his container for about 20-30min AFTER he has FULLY swallowed his meal, after the 20-30min I place him on the warm side of his tank where he lays under his lamp, on top of his heating pad for HOURS (4+) after his long nap he usually slithers to his hide until the next day.
• I clean Rue's container with water/bleach solution before/after all feedings.

1. The day I took rue home (Friday, March 13th) I was provided with a small rat (about 3 1/2 inches) with instructions to feed him stating it had been 7 days since he last ate. About 4 days later, i found fecal matter in his hide which was surprising because most forums say its common for them to soil in water. Equally surprising, his fecal matter was almost equal size to my adult Pit-bulls fecal matter. Also, up to this time frame no urine as of yet.
2. March 19th 2015, Rue's appetite was in full swing he was very adventurous in his attempt to search the whole room for food. The owner of the reptile store supplied me with a larger rat this time (4 1/2 - 5 inches)

• Last night March 23rd, 2015 I found Urine (which almost is surprisingly weird looking, Egg like) I cleaned it up after checking his whole tank for any other surprises. Around 4 hours after finding the first urine deposit, i found another. Is this normal? This is the first urine since i purchased him.

Enclosure
When I purchased Rue, He had a lot of things included (mostly everything I need for him) with the very expensive bundle. I have purchased a few things myself from different locations.

• New 55 gallon Tank w/ lid. Don't worry, I scrubbed it before putting my precious Rue in it. Water/bleach solution. His tank lives on my desk which fits it like a glove, it slide right in, so there is wood above it as well. I also keep a black towel over his tank that meets next to the lamp.

• Fluker Night lamp w/ bulb, on the right side of tank.
• Fluker Large heating pad, i have it taped up underneath his tank directly under the lamp.
• Cocoa dirt. I was amazed when it expanded! Also, one of his favorites!
• Aspen substrate (he's not a huge fan, i don't think ill use it again)
• Moss (He loves it!)
• Water dish (stone) The water dish is currently to small for his to soak his WHOLE body in, I plan to get him a ZOO MED XTRA LARGE within his week. I change his water daily.
• 2 Thermostates (cool;warm) Warm side: stays 89f - 92f Cool side: 82f - 86f
• Hide - Half log. I baked it in the oven before putting it in his tank (also, I think its a tad to small, when he lays under it the log becomes uneven it goes up into the air I'm guessing its a large, I do plan to buy an EXTRA LARGE half log within the next week as well.
• Water bottle (Misting) I fill it with hot water everyday. I mist Rue, his substrate, and empty the remainder into his water dish after emptying out the old water.
• ROCK - My boyfriend brought home a huge rock from the beach (bowling ball size) I baked in the oven for about 45min and let cool over night before putting in the enclosure. It sits under the lamp, above the heating pad. He loves climbing on it!
• Humidity - It stays around 50-70 % with the misting everyday. Im curious about buying an automatic mister because he loves being misted. I just haven't researched it enough yet.

Shedding

• On Sunday, March 22nd 2015 I noticed my little Rue has a pink belly! When i purchased him, the store owner advised me that he should be shedding soon. His scales are only a little bit dull and his eyes aren't blue yet. I've read very mixed opinions on BATHING. I would love to give my Rue a warm bath in the tub for about 10-15min to help with his shed. I do not want to bath him if its going to do more harm than good i.e. stress, anxiety, etc.
• He is due for another yummy rat on this coming Friday March 27, 2015. He hasn't produced any fecal matter from the second feeding yet. I've read that most snakes don't have much of an appetite while in shed, Thoughts? Should I hold off getting a meal until after his shed? Should I try to feed him the rat? How long can I keep the rat before it is no longer good?

Temperament

• He is docile, gentle, and loving. He loves to explore, being held, and even taking a nap in my hair from time to time. He has been very patient with me, as I am still learning. He has never hissed, struck, or even been aggressive with me. The only time his brat side comes out is when it comes time to go back into his tank, he tries hold onto everything just to send more time with me and outside the tank. I hold him before work for 10-30min and after work 1-2 hours every day.
• Is burrowing normal? One day I returned home from work thinking he had escaped form his tank. He was burrowed underneath his substrate 100% I called the reptile store (that poor lady, I call her a lot though she said she doesn't mind) and she said he is probably just getting comfortable with his new enclosure. He was burrowed on the warm of his tank, it was only a couple of days after I brought him home. He has only burrowed that one time, hasn't since. His hide was in his tank at the time.

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my novel! I'm glad I joined the BP forums as they directed me to the right forum (boa) Interesting to learn I actually do not have a python, Im housing a Boa. But I love him so now its just a matter of taking care of his health, safety, and quality of life needs. Hopefully I can seek the advice I need here instead of calling the poor lady that I bought him from all the time. Though, I do buy my rats there so I will still be able to give her updates which she said she would enjoy when i bought him!

[gameonpython]

Wow! You did write a novel! I'm pretty new to snake keeping, but I know a bit about boas. First off, I highly doubt you have a red tail boa, but instead the common boa. They get confused quite often, but red tails get much larger. It sounds like you got a lot of misinformation from the store owner. Boas are pretty different than ball pythons, but their care requirements are similar. Keep in mind that your snake has the ability to reach 8 feet or more. Boas are naturally much more active and outgoing than a ball python, but not as much so as say a corn snake. They are the perfect in between snake, if you don't want something slow but don't want something too fast.

Benefits from eating live rats?! If your snake will take frozen thawed, get him started on them right away! It is always recommended to feed frozen thawed over live, unless of course your snake will only take live. To my knowledge boas are not fussy eaters, so you shouldn't have any problems switching to frozen thawed. What you experienced is exactly why you shouldn't feed live , if you can help it. If he's a pet, he doesn't need hunting skills so don't worry about that!

You can feed in or out of his enclosure, whichever makes you feel more comfortable. My guy won't take food in a separate enclosure, it all depends on the snake.

Do you have a thermostat or rheostat on the heat pad? I would buy one if you don't, as heat pads are known for getting too hot.

If he is 41/2 feet long, he can probably eat at least a medium sized rat if not a large one. It should be approximately the same width as the snakes thickest part or slightly bigger. Some snakes defecate in the water dish, some don't. Mine doesn't and never has. Their poops get quite large don't they?! It can be surprising but completely normal.

The egg like urine you found is a urate. Snakes have two types of pee- urates and urine. This is also completely natural.

Does that lid lock? Snakes are escape artists, so make sure it's snake proof!

Be sure not to confuse a thermostat (controls temperature) with a thermometer (measures temperature) .

Boas do not typically have trouble shedding, so a bath isn't necessary unless after he sheds there is still stuck skin. It's possible it would stress him. Some snakes love water, some don't. I know mine absolutely hates it!

If he's not in blue yet, I would go ahead and feed him. Frozen rats are good for months.

Mine tries to "run away" when I put him back in the cage too! Reaching for anything, not wanting to go back in. You don't need to hold him that often, but if he is not showing any signs of stress then I say go for it. Keep in mind that you may get some flack for this though... Lots of disagreement on this topic.

Burrowing is normal. Again, some snakes like to burrow, some don't.

It sounds as though you really care for this animal and are doing your best to care for him but very misinformed. Good luck!




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[Rue]

Thank you for responding!

• I've called a new friends to come over since there has been different opinions on what he is, they all have pythons and boas. I've been told that he IS a Colombian red tail because of the bright red in his tail. Again, I am not sure because i don't have much experience but I will post a picture in my images of his tail.
• He loves being misted, which is what made me curious about the bathing.
• I will try feeding a f/t rat next feeding time. Right now, he feeds every 7 days.
• I'm going to have to do more research on urate! (also, the poo is a whole mother level out of this world; Thankful that it is normal though.)
• His lid doesn't lock, his lamp and the towel sit on it. He has never tried to escape (that I have seen) Though I have looked into locks, and will purchase one. Thanks for the tip!
• His heating pad does not have a thermostat; it is out of the tank, underneath, and than about 1 1/2 inch of cocoa substrate on it. I never thought about getting a thermostat for the heating pad since it is from a reptile brand I thought it would be safe.
• The temperature is measured by thermometers. Is there a better option?
• When feeding friday rolls around i will look at see how his shedding is coming along to gage whenever or not its an idea to feed or not.
• He loves being held, if i put him where he can get warmth for example; Laying in bed at night watching tv (his tank is in my room) on my belly or chest we will stay there forever and usually find a perfect place for a nap in my hair. When he is being active (moving around a lot or constantly) I put him back into his tank. I'm not sure the debate on handling, but I hold him because i truly feel he enjoys it or else i wouldn't. He's usually staring at me from inside his tank until i hold him. Its also good to know he's not the only one that wants to stay free Lol. No i would never let him sleep with me, or leave him out of his tank unattended so lets just get that out of the way right now.
• Thank you noticing that I'm trying my best to make sure he has the best quality of life. Also, I really appreciate you responding to my novel! Again, I am sorry! I just wanted to cover all the bases so everyone could have a better idea of the situation! I'm open to any advice/opinions about my sweet Rue!

[artgecko]

You should be fine feeding f/t.... If heated properly (and from a good source) your snake won't suffer from lack of nutrition. I order my feeders online and they are much cheaper... I use bigcheese or perfect prey and haven't had any issues with "bad" feeders from them. With f/t, if he is used to live, you will have to use long tongs (or bbq tongs) to wiggle the rat around to simulate what a live rat would do... I don't think you'd have any problems. I sit mine out (in a ziploc bag) about 4 hours before I want to feed, then about 1 hour before, I put the bag into hot water to start warming up the rat... You want the temp to resemble what a live rat would be at, so it should feel a little warm to you and you want to make sure there are no hard / cold places still frozen inside. You can't nuke it either, as cooked pieces won't work for your snake. Hot water (and inside a ziploc bag) have worked the best for me, although I know many use a blow dryer as well.

I would feed in your cage... Boas have super strong feeding response (at least mine do) and I know that I wouldn't want to handle them just after eating... It is not necessary to feed outside the enclosure to have a calm snake for handling. Check out this video by a very experienced boa keeper / breeder. You will see that he/she uses f/t food and feeds in the enclosures without any issues. Plus, it's good for kicks and giggles.

I feed my two f/t in their tubs using tongs. To make SURE that they know when feeding time is vs. handling time, I always use a hook to rub them when I will be handling or cleaning their cage. When I touch them with the hook (you could use a paper towel tube just as well), they instantly snap out of food mode and know what's going on. I know that I would not feel safe reaching into a tub and moving a boa in food mode, so I'd advise you to at least try hook training and feeding in his enclosure.. It is a lot less stressful / trouble as well.

For a boa his size / age, you probably only need to feed every 2-3 weeks (or even 4 weeks). I would feed a prey item about equal to him at his widest part, but not leaving a large lump in his stomach. Boas should look like a loaf of bread in shape (be square-sided) so if you see him getting round, he's getting too much food.

As for your setup, it sounds like it'll work... I would make sure that you have something for him to climb on, like a large branch.. My boas like to climb.

One thing that concerned me... you said you had two thermostats... Are these thermometers (that read the temps) or thermostats that control the temps? If they are thermometers, that is great, but you will need a thermostat for controlling your UTH (heat pad). The hydrofarm is a good cheap one that is easy to use (you can get it on amazon). If nothing else, get a rheostat (lamp dimmer) and play with it until your heat map is registering at about 88f consistently.

I would cover most of the top... maybe use foil, to help hold in humidity. Using a lamp will suck it up like crazy. You can also move the water bowl under the lamp (so that it evaporates) and that will help too (along with your spraying).

If you decide later on to upgrade you boa to a larger enclosure, look into a pvc cage like those by animal plastics. My boas are currently smaller, so still in rubbermaid tubs, but I plan on getting 4' x 2' x 18" pvc cages for them when they are large enough.

Good luck with him! boas are a joy to keep and much more fun to handle than other snakes. I have 2 now and another on the way this week.

[Reinz]

Welcome to the forum Rue.

You are well on the right track with all of your knowledge obtained. And thank you for giving us good info.

In case someone did not mention, I do not remember, since you have No thermostat, it would be best to shut off the UTH, especially since Rue likes to burrow. We see a lot of burns on this forum. Just use the heat lamp until you can an inexpensive Thermostat at a hardware store or the pet store. Or if you can afford it, you won't regret getting the best like the Herpstat ($115?)

If Rue is taking F/T rats great, keep it going, I would not change. However, if you find for some reason that you must feed live, always stand guard with long tweezers/forceps/pencil/etc and be prepared to jam it in the rat's mouth if it looks like a dangerous situation during the coil. Never walk away until they uncoil and you know for sure that death has occurred. Even then, I constantly check on them.

Enjoy your new pet

[Rue]

You should be fine feeding f/t.... If heated properly (and from a good source) your snake won't suffer from lack of nutrition. I order my feeders online and they are much cheaper... I use bigcheese or perfect prey and haven't had any issues with "bad" feeders from them. With f/t, if he is used to live, you will have to use long tongs (or bbq tongs) to wiggle the rat around to simulate what a live rat would do... I don't think you'd have any problems. I sit mine out (in a ziploc bag) about 4 hours before I want to feed, then about 1 hour before, I put the bag into hot water to start warming up the rat... You want the temp to resemble what a live rat would be at, so it should feel a little warm to you and you want to make sure there are no hard / cold places still frozen inside. You can't nuke it either, as cooked pieces won't work for your snake. Hot water (and inside a ziploc bag) have worked the best for me, although I know many use a blow dryer as well.

I would feed in your cage... Boas have super strong feeding response (at least mine do) and I know that I wouldn't want to handle them just after eating... It is not necessary to feed outside the enclosure to have a calm snake for handling. Check out this video by a very experienced boa keeper / breeder. You will see that he/she uses f/t food and feeds in the enclosures without any issues. Plus, it's good for kicks and giggles.

I feed my two f/t in their tubs using tongs. To make SURE that they know when feeding time is vs. handling time, I always use a hook to rub them when I will be handling or cleaning their cage. When I touch them with the hook (you could use a paper towel tube just as well), they instantly snap out of food mode and know what's going on. I know that I would not feel safe reaching into a tub and moving a boa in food mode, so I'd advise you to at least try hook training and feeding in his enclosure.. It is a lot less stressful / trouble as well.

For a boa his size / age, you probably only need to feed every 2-3 weeks (or even 4 weeks). I would feed a prey item about equal to him at his widest part, but not leaving a large lump in his stomach. Boas should look like a loaf of bread in shape (be square-sided) so if you see him getting round, he's getting too much food.

As for your setup, it sounds like it'll work... I would make sure that you have something for him to climb on, like a large branch.. My boas like to climb.

One thing that concerned me... you said you had two thermostats... Are these thermometers (that read the temps) or thermostats that control the temps? If they are thermometers, that is great, but you will need a thermostat for controlling your UTH (heat pad). The hydrofarm is a good cheap one that is easy to use (you can get it on amazon). If nothing else, get a rheostat (lamp dimmer) and play with it until your heat map is registering at about 88f consistently.

I would cover most of the top... maybe use foil, to help hold in humidity. Using a lamp will suck it up like crazy. You can also move the water bowl under the lamp (so that it evaporates) and that will help too (along with your spraying).

If you decide later on to upgrade you boa to a larger enclosure, look into a pvc cage like those by animal plastics. My boas are currently smaller, so still in rubbermaid tubs, but I plan on getting 4' x 2' x 18" pvc cages for them when they are large enough.

Good luck with him! boas are a joy to keep and much more fun to handle than other snakes. I have 2 now and another on the way this week.

Thank you artgecko!

• As stated in my original post, I thought I had a python for the last almost two weeks LOL If he's a python or boa I just love my Rue he is amazingly patient and gentle.
• The reptile store I bought Rue from has f/t but I will check out the brands you listed for sure!
• He is square, also I keep forgetting to mention that when I hold him I can feel his bones (Yucky) I have pictures of my sweet Rue on my profile if anyone think he is under please inform me. He has a very healthy appetite but more research into boas I've learned that they are kind of like my Pitbull ALWAYS hungry. Eat, eat, eat some more
• I've read so many mixed opinions on feeding in or out of enclosure. The day I brought him home, I fed him in his enclosure because at this point I hadn't bought the container yet. He seemed fine with it. But he also seemed fine with eating in his container as well. I was apprehensive on feeding him in his enclosure because I wanted to create pattern difference from eating time/holding time (remember this is my first, so bare with me. Its a learning in the process)
• As far as something to climb on, Rue has a large rock that was brought home from the beach its about bowling ball size and properly prepped so no nasties would infect Rue. The rock sits in the warm corner. He loves to climb on it, and go under his hide and than over it and everything else. Now, I called the reptile store owner to ask her because we also brought branches home from the beach (they are still outside) When I called her she said driftwood isn't safe because it's hard to tell what type of wood it is since our snake babies are very sensitive. So, the branches are still outside, I have researched the vines you can purchase but I really want him to be able to have wood/logs because right now he uses me as a tree so I know he would love something other than his rock and hide to climb on. ALL HINTS/ADVICE/OPINIONS ARE WELCOMED!
• Right now I keep a large beach towel over his lid so it stays cozy warm but i will defiantly try the aluminum foil trick!
• I currently have two thermometers. I do not any thermostats. I will order the thermostat you have advised thank you! I had no idea i needed to have a thermostat on the heating pad.
• You had mentioned the water bowl under the heat lamp, I actually just tried that and he wouldn't touch it.... So i put it back next to the cool side and he loves his water again. Odd, I'm not sure what his attitude with that is about.
• I have never heard of a PVC cage thats nothing I nee to research. Right now my sweet Rue is in his 55 gal tank though I've been playing around with the idea of a TALL enclosure I'm talking ceiling to floor. Thoughts? The only serious idea i've planned on in the future is an 180 gal tank. When he's curled up he looks so dang small BUT when he stretches out the full 4 1/2ish feet, my tank seems kind of small.

​Another odd question, Rue loves to lay up against his tank. Body on the floor of enclosure and neck/body up against glass with his head pointing straight up to the lid... Is this normal? To be fair it looks odd LOL

I truly appreciate everyones advice, I'm already very attached to my sweet Rue and want to ensure that he's as happy as can be.

[Rue]

Welcome to the forum Rue.

You are well on the right track with all of your knowledge obtained. And thank you for giving us good info.

In case someone did not mention, I do not remember, since you have No thermostat, it would be best to shut off the UTH, especially since Rue likes to burrow. We see a lot of burns on this forum. Just use the heat lamp until you can an inexpensive Thermostat at a hardware store or the pet store. Or if you can afford it, you won't regret getting the best like the Herpstat ($115?)

If Rue is taking F/T rats great, keep it going, I would not change. However, if you find for some reason that you must feed live, always stand guard with long tweezers/forceps/pencil/etc and be prepared to jam it in the rat's mouth if it looks like a dangerous situation during the coil. Never walk away until they uncoil and you know for sure that death has occurred. Even then, I constantly check on them.

Enjoy your new pet

Thank you for understanding the need for me to write the novel & the sweet welcome Rienz!

• I do not have a thermostat as of yet, I do plan on ordering one so that is something I will research and order ASAP. Rue has only burrowed that one time, he enjoys most of his time in his half log though which I think its to small since he lifts it up when he lays under it. When it comes to purchasing, the more expensive (115$) is worth it in my eyes. Quality comes first.
• When it comes to feeding, I watch him like a HAWK! I never leave, from start to finish, I wait until he has fully swallowed the meal. When i saw him release the rat and that he was latched to the under side of Rue's jaw, I started to panic. I almost feel guilty feeding him f/t because it takes away that natural instinct and process for him. But the way I see it is, if its more a liability to feed him live than f/t it is. I've haven't tried yet, so I will give it go and see how he likes it. Right now, he strikes the live, with one shot instantly as soon as he smells it. We will see if his behavior is the same with f/t

If anyone has anymore advice on what kind of snake my sweet rue is, please share! I was told python, and many forum members today have said definitely boa. Even though I don't mind what kind he is since I love him all the same. I want to ensure that he is properly cared for. I have 3 pictures of him on my profile, please don't hesitate to let me know if you need pictures with more light/focus/angel etc!

Keep the advice rolling! I love it!

[Orion]

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your new pet. My first snake was a Colombian. He was very docile. Just as the others stated.....go with F/T and eventually a bigger enclosure. Feel free to ask any more questions.

[Sauzo]

-To start with I would ditch feeding live as a large rat can do damage. I feed all my snakes fresh pre killed. I do agree I prefer fresh killed vs frozen as we all know vitamins and nutrients do break down when frozen. How much is debatable but I prefer just killing my own rats.
-Feed in the cage, feeding outside the cage was a myth because people thought the snake would get imprinted to opening the door equals food. It has been debunked. I feed all my snakes in their cages even my 6ft BCI girl.
-They poop or piss all over although mine generally do it in corners of the cage. And yes the urates look like white eggs kind of.
-As for feeding, you should be feeding him every 2-3 weeks. Boas are different than pythons as they need to stay more lof of bread shape to be healthy, not round like a python.

-Cage sounds ok tempwise and humidity. Might want to check into a PVC cage. I use Pro-Line 48x23x14 for Rosey my big BCI. My sunglow is a baby still but I will be switching her to a PVC cage too later. They are much easier to clean, keep temps and are ALOT lighter in weight. I use aspen for all my snakes and they are fine on it. I do complete cage cleanings every month so aspen makes it easy.

-As for shedding, my advice is don't handle them during shed. All my snakes get pissy during shed time and Rosey will actually use her hide which is about the only time she will actually one. The thing is during a shed when they go into blue, that is actually a liquid between their old and new skin so I avoid handling during that time. Also don't bath them as some people have said that doing that can mess up the liquid they use for their skin. You will be fine with anything above 50% humidity. I keep 50% all the time and its fine. Too high of humidity can cause mold/mildew/fungus and bacteria to grow which is not good for a snakes respiratory system and can give them RI. RI isn't only caused by bacteria.

- As for burrowing, yes they do that sometimes. Rosey sometimes burrows in her aspen, pushes her hide around the cage, pull down her light and RHP wires, pushes on the cage door. Usually she only does this when hungry though.

And grats on the boa. They are much more interactive and inquisitive than a ball python. I love my little Dottie but both Rosey and Vicky are a blast. Rosey more so as I've had her for a couple years as a baby so she is used to me and loves to come out and sit on the couch or bed or climb on chairs. I usually leave her cage door open whenever I am home and she will sit with just her face hanging out the door or she will curl up next to the door and sleep and i'll pet her when I walk by. She seems to actually like it haha. If I pet her head, she will usually stretch out the length of the door opening and I rub her whole body while she just sits there lol.

[artgecko]

If you want to go expensive with the thermostat, you can look into herpstats. I have a herpstat 4 running my 2 racks and boa tub and it works great. The hydrofarm I mentioned is a good intro thermostat and although it isn't as accurate (it is not proportional like the herpstat) it is still a good thermostat. UTHs can get up to 115 or so degrees, so not safe to use without one... snakes will lay on it and get burns and not know it until they have injuries form it. Until you get the hydrofarm (or whichever you order) you can use a lamp dimmer and play with it to get the temps you want... You will want to secure your thermometer probe right on top of the UTH (I'd use hot glue to secure it.. never tape) that way, you will get an accurate reading of what the UTH is at.

When you said that your boa wasn't using his water when it was on the warm side, do you mean soaking or drinking? They will soak prior to a shed or if they are dehydrated... You can try putting the large bowl under the heat lamp side and putting a smaller bowl on the cool end and see what happens.

Do you have a hygrometer? There is a unit that measures humidity and temperature called an "acurite indoor outdoor thermometer / hygrometer" I use this in all my tubs.. It has a temp. probe with a long line (I attach this above the UTH), it measures ambient temp through the unit itself (I put the unit on the "cool" end) and it measures humidity as well. With a boa, you want about 50 -60% humidity, so you might want to pick up something like that or another hygrometer that is digital (I wouldn't use the dial kind).

Boas can sometimes lay in odd positions.. I wouldn't be too worried about it unless he starts zoining out and not moving when you touch him and he is in that position.

As for your enclosure, ground space is important for boas too.. I would get a cage (pvc or even a big rubbermaid tub) that has a bigger "footprint" before going with a taller one. Getting a good ambient temp is harder with a taller cage too. I am lucky in that I heat my reptile room, so ambient temps aren't a problem for me now. Many people that don't heat their room, will use an RHP (radient heat panel) above the warm end to keep ambient temps up. These, like UTH, need to be on a thermostat.

The 2 companies I mentioned sell rodents online and in bulk. You will probably want to try f/t from your local store first to see if he will take it. If he will, then order some online (depending on the prices at your local store). Be careful with the local f/t though. If it is in a store like petco, there's sometimes have been thawed / frozen multiple times and aren't good to feed.

One last thing.. Not sure if you mentioned it already, but I would make sure he has a hide on both the warm and cool ends of his tank so that he has options.. That way he doesn't have to choose between safety and the right temperature.

Good luck!