Eating trouble

[loungelizard]

Hey folks, new member here so I hope I've posted this in the right place!

I recently purchased my first ever Ball Python (several months old) about 2 weeks ago from an established and trusted breeder in my local area (I am in the UK). Unfortunately I am having trouble getting her to eat.

I also own two Corn Snakes but they have never given me any trouble with eating so this is a new experience for me.

My new BP (Coyah I have named her) was due a feed the day after I got her so the breeder gave me a frozen fuzzy rat home with me. The next day I defrosted the rat and set it on the heat mat for a short while to warm it up. When I offered the rat to Coyah she immediately took it and constricted it. Then she got her mouth round the head of the rat and appeared to be starting to eat it. After a few minutes though she stopped and just left the rat sitting there. I left it in overnight but it was still there in the morning.

So last night (a week later) I tried again but this time she would only sniff the rat and wouldn't even go for it. This morning the rat is still there.

It's two weeks now since I got her so I'm thinking she should be more or less settled in. Any ideas as to why she won't eat?

I had a 3ft vivarium ready for her when I brought her home but the breeder advised me that if I put her in the 3ft viv she wouldn't feed so I put her in one of those Exo Terra faunariums. She has lignocel substrate with heat mat under half of the faunarium and a cork bark hide. I can't really fit much into the faunarium but feel she is maybe feeling too exposed? Could I move her into the 3ft viv if I had loads of stuff in there to give her more cover and security?Advice much appreciated!

[George1994]

Ball Pythons are known as fussy eaters. My male didn't eat for months when I first got him. Double, triple check your husbandry, and just let him settle in. You will get to know him over time, and how he operates, that will make it easier to feed him. There is tons of info on here on getting them to feed, you come to the right place!

[C2tcardin]

I'm wondering if perhaps you're not warming up the f/t rat enough. Do you have a IR temp gun to measure the surface temp of the rat? I give mine a few hours to thaw then heat them with a hair dryer, often the temps will read over 100 degrees fahrenheit (38 celsius).

[George1994]

Good point, I run the F/T rats head under hot water for a few seconds too, unmistakeable for the snake!

[bcr229]

She has lignocel substrate with heat mat under half of the faunarium and a cork bark hide.

Do you have a thermostat regulating the heat mat? Do you have an infrared thermometer so you can get the surface temperature of the glass over the heat mat? If it's too hot she won't use the heat.

Also I'm not sure what a cork bark hide is, but if it's one of those half-circle types where both ends are open, those aren't great for ball pythons. They prefer tight-fitting hides with one small opening to tuck into and feel secure.

Finally, have you asked the breeder to stop by and check your setup, assuming he's close enough? I have no problem doing that for my babies going to new homes.

[George1994]

Finally, have you asked the breeder to stop by and check your setup, assuming he's close enough? I have no problem doing that for my babies going to new homes.

If you need help and are anywhere in West London then I am more than happy to help!

[loungelizard]

I have been on many forums of various kinds but I must say I'm amazed by the quick and helpful responses on here!

Yeah I have a thermostat attached to my heat mat. In fairness it isn't an expensive stat but it has proved reliable. I also have a temp gun and a thermometer to monitor temps. I keep the stat set at about 30-32c.

Indeed you are also correct in your assumption of what a cork bark hide is. On that basis I am going to order something new to replace it. I'm thinking now maybe one of those snake cave type hides with just the little hole on top to crawl into.

I must try warming up the rat more on my next attempt. I had been thawing it out for about an hour or two and then setting it on the heat mat for 5-10mins to put some heat into it. Having looked on Youtube just earlier today I seen a video where a guy puts his rat into a little bag, puts it in a cup and then fills the cup with boiling water. I think I'll try this and measure the temp of the rat before offering it to my snake.

My breeder is about a 30min car journey away but I have contact with him whenever I need through email. When the snake didn't eat the first time I had emailed him and he suggested it was just because I had only had her a day and she wouldn't be settled so would not eat for that reason.

How long can my snake go for (safely) without feeding before it becomes a serious issue?

I've also read about braining rats to entice snakes to feed. Not a thought I relish much but could possibly cope with it if it were a reliable way to get the snake to feed. Thoughts?

[George1994]

How long can my snake go for (safely) without feeding before it becomes a serious issue?

Depends on the snake. If it is a big 2,000g+ female, ages. My 1,000g male didn't eat for about 5 months!

So long as there is a slow decline in weight, and nothing drastic, then there is no need to worry at all! Sounds like you are doing your best to sort all the other stuff out too man

[loungelizard]

I've just weighed my snake and she's around 170g. Not sure how accurate my scales are as they are only a cheap set but I'm assuming they are close to the mark.

[dr del]

I swear by the method of heating the head of the F/T using a hair drier.

Not only does it heat the area you want the strike to hit directly it spreads the scent of the rat around so the snake knows food is in the area - it makes a huge difference in the behaviour of mine.