I just picked up a pre-made 41qt DIY plastic shelving-style rack with weaving heat strip on the cheap, but it's in pretty bad condition and was not really done right from the start.

I plan on making some alterations to it to use it for a while before selling it and making a nice one from scratch. I figured it's a good place for me to start learning/tinkering. I've been reading as much as I can in the forum but have some remaining questions:



1. They tried to tape down the heat tape with some kind of double-sided tape but it has failed pretty badly. I'd like to tape it down from the top with a few strips of tape instead. Any preference to tape type: aluminum tape, duct tape, packing tape? I feel like I've seen each of these used. I'd like to use aluminum but was slightly concerned about its conductive properties (don't tape from one side to other, I realize that).

2. What's the general wisdom on recessing/spacing the heat tape vs having it sit directly on and the ideal gap in inches? Is this absolutely necessary? My tubs have a ridge on either side so they are mostly not touching, but I was thinking it could melt through in that spot if I don't. I have seen the window shim approach to creating some space although that seems non-uniform height.

3. What's the best way to measure your effective temp within the tub on the hotspot? (in order to dial in your thermostat temp) The only two ways I can think of are using a thermometer with a probe, to put on the inside, OR, sliding it open and then temp gunning the place in the tub which was over the heat tape. I'm concerned about the latter that by the time I get it open (have to pull whole thing out b/c of lid, with difficulty) it will have cooled off a bit. The problem with probe is it only covers 1 spot at a time, and I'm concerned about hotspots.

Two other steps -- feel free to comment.

4. The tape is in pretty bad shape in some parts more than others. So I plan on only using the better shelves for now, or maybe splicing out the bad parts.

5. The worst part about the system is that there are no "tops" so shelves stay on, and they barely slide in (very difficult). I plan on extending the posts and adding hardboard tops. (To further complicate it, the underside of the shelves are curved by design so I'll have to shim it closer to front/back with washers or something. Definitely not the ideal shelving system to start with)