need help...we're a mess

[dapp]

Okay, first post...

Brought home a BP last week and in hindsight we were massively under prepared for this. Doing everything we can to get him established and set up for health and long-term success. Can seem to get temps or humidity even close to where they should be and while our BP looks wonderfully healthy, but behavior seems a bit off.

Initial set up is as follows:

Glass enclosure w/ screen top, tapped on 3/4 to help with temps/humidity. Two hides, one on each side, one slightly larger over the UTH and a smaller one the cool side. Ceramic heating element and UTH on a rheostat but I am using a combination of stick on and dial thermometers to measure temps (wr actually have 6 in there now to measure the gradiant). Good news is we have a solid thermal gradiant from low 80s to mid 70s with a basking area close to 90 bad news is it's too cold. Haven't been able to measure temp in the hides. Coconut fiber substrate that we have sprayed down to get humidity up. One heavy multi limb branch and a water dish.

He is very active a couple of times a day and likes to go vertical (future escape artist on our hands if we're not careful). Will curl up in the warm hide or around the base of the branch and get into a tight spot along the edge of the tank. Was basking up in the branch when I checked on him this am. More active overnight and after anytime hands are in the tank and seems highly active for a BP. He hasn't eaten in 4 weeks, we will present again on Monday.

What I think I know...

I need to get temps up 5-10 degrees assuming thermometers are right.
I need to get digital thermometers and an actual thermostat instead of just a rheostat.
Need to maintain humidity instead of the high/low, high/low we are dealingnwith now.

Other than that, at a bit of a loss as to how to get him to settle in.

Any help/suggeations welcomed.

Cheers!

[Jackie]

What are your temps and humidity at?


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[dapp]

Temps range from 84 warm end to 74 cool end assuming thermometers are accurate. I know I need to get this up about 10 degrees on each end. That said, he doesn't seem to be sticking to the hot spots and doesn't seem to avoind the cool end. Humidity is in the 40-50% range until we mist thwn stays in the 60-70% range for about a day before dropping back off.

[GeekAndDestroy]

Before doing anything, I'd suggest running out and getting the digital thermometer/hygrometer. I tried a combo dial, and soon found out that the humidity accuracy was off by 30%, and my efforts to get the humidity to appropriate levels was actually putting the cage at nearly 100% humidity. The thermometer was also off by 10 degrees.

[Jackie]

Temps range from 84 warm end to 74 cool end assuming thermometers are accurate. I know I need to get this up about 10 degrees on each end. That said, he doesn't seem to be sticking to the hot spots and doesn't seem to avoind the cool end. Humidity is in the 40-50% range until we mist thwn stays in the 60-70% range for about a day before dropping back off.

What size is your enclosure and what wattage of heat emitter are you using? I went through all the same problems with mine a while back.


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[rtman26]

As long as your gradient stays in the mid 80's you should be fine with a warm spot around 90.

I also use coconut bark and to keep the humidity up, I mist every morning before work, and every night right before his day light turns off at about 6pm. He always comes out as soon as his light turns off and absolutely hates to get wet...so I avoid misting while he's out snaking around. I also keep the entire screen at the top covered with a towel except for the area where his lights/che are to allow air flow (and avoid fire).

A few words of advice: Try a larger (not deeper!) water dish so more can evaporate into the air; Try regular misting with a water bottle. Again my snake hates getting wet so try not to spray your critter directly in case they feel the same; A humidifier in the room might go a long way; If you just can't manage to get consistent humidity, which is difficult with taller glass tanks, try an animal fogger.

[Saber402]

First off, glad to see you are asking questions. That shows you care which is a great start! Don't beat yourself up!

You just brought him home last week. It could very well take a while for him to get settled into new surroundings.

A couple things to consider - You are using an UTH and a ceramic heater? With dial type gauges? Dial gauges are notorious for reading way off of actual temps. Sounds to me that he is likely overheated and is trying to escape the heat with no place to go. Ball pythons typically don't bask in a branch. They stay on the ground. I would ditch the ceramic heater! All I use is UTH's for all of my balls and they do fine.. Six thermometers is unnecessary. All you need is a good thermometer with a wired probe. Put the probe over the UTH and under the warm hide and the main part of the unit on the opposite side.

You said he is cold. He could be going to the coldest part of the enclosure to get away from the heat. Remember, your body is 98.6 degrees so it's not unusual for him to feel cold to the touch. As long as you get your temps regulated accurately don't worry about if he is "cold". Plus, once he finds his way around the tank he will self-regulate his body temps.

I wouldn't bump up his temps at all. What you are telling us, if proven to be accurate with a digital thermometer is good. Another ten degrees would put his warm spot at 100 degrees. Way to high in my opinion.

It's not so important to maintain a particular humidity level, as it is OK to allow some variances. Try to keep it between 50- 60% while bumping it up to 70% or so when a shed is approaching. Misting once a week or so with Coconut husks should be good for holding humidity. You didn't mention having a hygrometer to measure the humidity.

What are you attempting to feed him (mouse/rat - frozen/thawed), and also how much does he weigh? Do you have a digital scale that measures in grams? That would be helpful in following the growth of your snake, as well as making sure it is getting properly sized meals.

You said you taped 3/4's of the screen top. With what? Glass tanks are difficult to maintain temps and humidity in.

Sorry for all the questions! Just trying to get a handle on your set up so we can help you. Don't take anything as criticism.

Lastly, check out some of the Ball Python Care sheets found on this forum and on the web if you haven't already done so. Good information.

Good luck and keep posting updates!

[dapp]

Wow! Thanks for all of the counsel and support!

Our house is notoriously cold...probably runs about 68 degrees in the room the BP is housed in which makes a UTH alone pretty tough. Tried the first few nights (when we were using a basking light in the day) with the UTH only and temps were running 78 -> 70 hot to cold. Again, if the thermometers are off, maybe this is okay.

I get that 6 thermometers are overkill and not necessary, but without a digi and probe, wanted to make sure there was a good heat curve throughout the enclosure.

He has spent zero tim in the "cool" hide or balled up on the cool side so I assumed he wasn't overheating. Just walked in and he is back up at the top of the branch again. The branch is not directly under the overhead heat source, but he still probably get some basking benefit there and with heat rising, ambient should be highest up but I'd think the UTH under the hide is the warmest spot in the enclosure.

Top was foiled and duct taped (tape on outside only). Open screen right now to see what happens with heat and whether he backs down off the branch.

We do have a digital scale that measures in grams (oldest sonnis T1D so we weigh everything). Haven't weighed him yet, but will. He is still a juvenile and is (or at least was) feeding on frozen thawed pinkies. He could probably be in fuzzies at this point, but I want to see him eat first.

We have a dial hygrometer which may be about as useful as the themometers but its what have right now. Will upgrade that too.

Enclosure is a 20 gallon (30" wide 12" deep 12" high).

Keep the coaching coming! Thanks!

[Jackie]

If you are struggling with humidity, as a last attempt at keeping mine consistent I moved her water bowl to over my uth and it helped a lot. As far as heat maybe you just need a higher wattage bulb? It sounds like you are on top of it which is great!


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[Crazymonkee]

Pinkies are way too small for even a hatchling ball, I would moved him up sooner than later. Hatchings start off on mouse hoppers or rat pups.
I would get a digital thermometer with a probe asap so you know the correct temps.
And yes if your house is 68, you will need your che to keep the ambients up. As long as your hotspot is 90 ambients of 86-75 is fine

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