Baby corn not eating

[Andys-Python]

I know this problem has been discussed to death, but I'm still having a problem with one baby corn.
I've had this 4gm butter hatchling for 3 weeks now and he is totally not interested in eating. I've tried small live pinkys, pinky parts, open brain (on F/T), adult mouse brains on live pinkys and pinky parts - all with no interest. His set up is spot on for temps in a small plastic box with folded paper towel on the bottom with folded cloth for him to hide in. He prefers the warm end of the box under the paper towel to rest in and at night he roams around on top, looking for a way out. I've tried feeding in the morning and at night and have left the food available all night. I haven't messed with him AT ALL other than to put the food next to him. I haven't tried putting him in a deli cup or paper bag to eat because I didn't want to mess with him any more than I had too.
Next I will try to scent with tuna or sardines.

Any further suggestions?
Do these snakes eat anything OTHER than pinkies?

Thanks - Andy

[Spiritserpents]

Put him in the deli-cup; proximity can help. Also, try lizard-scenting.

[bigt0006]

My striped wqs like that I put him in a very small rubber maid container with a frozen thawed pink and 20 minutes later the pinky was gone. If you cant get him to start feeding tube feeding is a last resort

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[heythem500]

There are several things that you can try in order to get your little corn snake to eat. Most hatchling corn snakes, even the smallest babies, can usually manage to eat a newborn pinky mouse. One of my dear friends, Peg, raises hundreds of corn snakes, and she said that she once had twin baby corn snakes hatch from one egg, and these two were able to eat a pinky shortly after hatching.
But, if you don’t think your little snake can manage a pinky, you can try several things. First, we must make sure that he is being maintained at the correct temperature. Temperature ranges should be between 77 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 67 to 75 degrees at night. Humidity should be between 30 and 70 percent relative humidity. Your new snake should have a hidebox, and it is probably best to not handle him often until he is eating well. Make sure he also has a low water bowl so that he can drink and soak. Most breeders won’t sell baby snakes until they have eaten at least once, to make sure that they are healthy.

[Spiritserpents]

Corn snakes don't require a night drop, especially not one into the mid 60s. The warm end optimally should stay that way, at about 85 degrees. Also, most breeders won't sell a hatchling until it has eaten *3* times. I've had babies eat once or twice...and never eat again. It was super frustrating.

[Andys-Python]

First, let me thank everyone for their help and input!

I tried all these suggestions and more with no luck.
I didn't want to do this, but I cut up a mouse pinky into 4 bite-size pieces and assist fed the little guy all four pieces. Since then, he has eaten live mouse pinkies every week or two. He is gaining weight and growing and well on his way to being a happy snake. I'm still leaving him alone so he is not stressed and when he gets a little better and is eating more aggressively, I'll start handling him more.

It's always good to hear a success story, so I thought I'd share!

Thanks again everyone!!!!