Heat Lamp OR Heat Mat!

[MarkLeishman]

Hi,

I have a wooden vivexotic vivarium, with glass sliding doors,
i have a 6 month old ball python, he/she is eating well *only ever missed 2 feeds*
i keep the bulb on 24/7 as it can get cold where i live at night,
i dont have a thermostat at the moment as i cant afford one, but the heat lamp stays at a constant 93 degrees or below,
im wondering, as i am going to buy a thermostat, whilst doing so, should i buy a heat mat and get rid of the heat lamp?

please post your pros and cons and your opinion/what you use, any information is valued,

thanks,

Mark

[Mr Flay]

Well first of all the bulb shouldnt be kept on 24/7 because constant light isnt good and the night time temperature can drop.

But as to pros and cons of both.

Bulb:
Pros- heat is radiated downwards to the snake which replicates the sun
- dont need a thermostat
- cheap only around $10
-makes the ambient and basking temperature the right degree
Cons- the bulbs sometimes go out really fast
-drain humidity and dry up the tank
- can burn your snake if it is touched
- alot of electricity

Heat Mat:
Pros- Provides the snake with belly heat
- Better for when the snake is digesting
- Some heat mats are inexpensive
-Last a while
-If used with a thermostat it can stay at a constant temperature
Cons- needs to be run with a thermostat which cheapest can start at is $30
- WILL burn your snake if used without one because they cannot tell its that hot
-Will not warm up the ambient temperature to the degrees required unless using a tub

Both have their pros and cons, i personally use the heat mats for my snakes in the tubs, and the bulbs for the snakes in cages. But i will be switching over to heat panels since they are alot better even though expensive .

[Ozifur]

I was told that lamps are a terrible idea for balls so I just use a UTH.

[rocknhorse76]

In a wooden viv, I'd recommend either a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) or a RHP (radiant heat panel). The RHP will dry the air less, but is more expensive. In order to run a heat mat, you'll need to either get a Kane (expensive) which can be used inside the viv, or you'll need to cut a hole in the floor of the viv and install a glass or Plexiglas panel and use a UTH (under tank heater) . Regardless of the heat source, you NEED to use a thermostat to properly regulate the temperatures! You can get a Hydrofarm stat for about $30 delivered from Amazon or eBay.

[The Real Krafty]

I use UTH with a thermostat. Luna really loves laying on it. Also I use a UVA/UVB bulb with somewhat low wattage during the day just to simulate daylight for her. My ambient temps are perfect and basking spot is always at a good temp as well. Hope this helps!

[kitedemon]

They are completely different things it is hard to say one is better over the other they heat differently.

Bulbs heat air (convection).

UTH/RHP heat things Radiant).

One is not better than the other they are just different. If you heat AIR you raise the amount of water the air can hold the water doesn't magically disappear it is the same you just are farther from the saturation point.

It is a myth snakes need belly heat.

The new style heat mats (low entity) are unlikely to burn a snake as they are designed to not exceed 100ºF I would NOT recommend heat system that does get hotter. Kane being a great example.

UTH will not be effective through the wood bottom, the ONLY pad you can place inside safely I know of is Kane pads. they are very large and very expensive add a proportional thermostat (ON off with an interior pad are unsafe) it is all going to run on the expensive side.

Your snake is happy, feeding is a great husbandry indicator. 'If it ain't broke don't fix it'

You can spend a lot more cash and then have to re balance the ambient temps some how. and be where you are now.


The best you can expect a UTH or RHP to heat air is 2-5ºF with out doing a lot of tuning.

[rossi46]

The best you can expect a UTH or RHP to heat air is 2-5ºF with out doing a lot of tuning.

Are you sure about that? Ambient room temp where my snake enclosure is: 72*. Air temp, as measured by a Herpstat I, on hot side of cage using a Pro-Products RHP: 85*.