What are the essentials?

[obsidianembrace]

Hey everyone!

I got a male pastel BP at a Repticon yesterday. I'm really excited about him! I have been looking into them for a couple months out of interest but the actual buy was an impulse. So I have a general idea but I haven't done extremely detailed research. I want to do everything he needs; I tend to spoil my pets with the best!

I already had a ten gallon tank, XS UTH, S UTH, dish, hide, digital therm/hyg with a probe, and plants.

Questions:

So right now he's on paper towels. I know I need to get a thermostat for the UTH, that's on the top of my list. Is there a specific brand/model that's best? Also I was reading about a timer (?) power strip that has 4 always on outlets, 2 day, and 2 night. That sounds like it would be very useful! Does anyone know what exactly that was?

The breeder said he was last fed on 4/5 and he's been being fed live hoppers. Even in talking to different vendors, I got conflicting advice on how often to feed. I've heard 10-14 days and 7-10 days and someone on here even said every 4 days! I can weigh and measure him in the next couple of days to help you give me the best advice on feeding practices. I am wanting to switch to frozen food for convenience but if there are major health benefits to feeding live, I would definitely do that for him. Since he was last fed over two weeks ago should I try offering him food now or give him another few days to settle in? I only got him yesterday, but I don't want him to be unable to settle in because he's hungry!

I'm think I'm going to have a warm hide and cool hide of course but I want to provide a humid hide as well. I live in Utah where it is quite dry so I would like to offer humidity without everything just being wet. Would it be a good idea to combine the humid hide with the warm hide? Or would he prefer a warm dry place? If misting is a better option that is doable as well.

The set-up he's in right now is very basic: paper towels, one UTH (I know he needs more, I'm going be monitoring temps and deciding if I should get a CHE as well), large water dish, plants, a hide, and some cardboard tubes. So far the tubes are his favorite, he fits perfectly. Is this the bare essentials for now? I only have to wait other week and then I can easily pick up everything else he needs.

Most breeders I talked to seemed very into the genetics side of things and it seemed like they didn't always pay a ton of attention to the actual behavior of the animal. So my questions about that kind of went unanswered... but their snakes were beautiful at least! The one I got is not head-shy and seems calm to me. But if anyone could give me a short run-down on normal BP behavior, I would appreciate it!

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This post might have been a little scattered but I hope you could pick out the questions! I really appreciate any advice you guys can give

-Rebecca

[BeccaBurrr]

Hey Rebecca! Another fellow Becca here! It sounds like you've done some decent research to get your little guy started. I've only been a BP enthusiast for a few months now, so I can't give advice for all of your questions. I think the most important thing you need to get is a thermostat for your UTH, as I've seen and heard some pretty awful burn stories. As far as a feeding schedule goes, I try to keep a consistent 7 day schedule with a meal that's approximately the size of the largest portion of their body (or just a tad bigger). This seems to work nicely for my girl. I did feed her a day early this week though, just because she seemed like she was trying to scout out food last night when I had her out. Two hides is good..though I'm not sure about also adding a humid hide..somebody else will have to answer that. I usually only use a humid hide when she's in shed, but it might not hurt to have one since you live in a dry region. Something you can do to help him feel more secure and to settle in is cover 2 or 3 sides of his tank so he doesn't feel so exposed. I've heard people do this with just paper and it helps. I use suction cupped plants for this and it seems to work alright for her.

I assume if he isn't head-shy or skittish, he probably won't have too hard of a time getting used to his new home. Personally, I'd try feeding him a meal tomorrow or the next day, since it's been quite a while since his last meal. Somebody else might have different advice for this, it's just what I would do. I'd be too scared that he was starving.
Welcome to the boards and the addiction!

[sho220]

personally, i'd try feeding him a meal tomorrow or the next day, since it's been quite a while since his last meal. Somebody else might have different advice for this, it's just what i would do. I'd be too scared that he was starving.
Welcome to the boards and the addiction! :d

x2

[obsidianembrace]

Thanks for the response!

Yeah, I was thinking I should feed him tomorrow too. Do you feed live or frozen?

[obsidianembrace]

Also what kind of thermostat do you use? I haven't had to deal with one before.

Should adults be fed once a week as well? Or do you feed them less when they're full grown?

[ChaosAffect]

I'll pass on the same thermostat advice that was given to me: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But with this cavaet: Don't spend too much on glass tank setups. I've got two right now and am already looking towards a rack. I think you'll find that this hobby is quickly addicting and you'll want to grow past what tanks can offer you.

[BeccaBurrr]

I'll pass on the same thermostat advice that was given to me: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But with this cavaet: Don't spend too much on glass tank setups. I've got two right now and am already looking towards a rack. I think you'll find that this hobby is quickly addicting and you'll want to grow past what tanks can offer you.

x2!

I've only had my girl for 3-4 months and I'm already researching racks and looking into what morph I want to purchase first!

[obsidianembrace]

I'm really only planning on him being a pet. I'm going to be breeding crested geckos and hopefully leachianus in the next few years. Plus the balls can be so expensive... So for now I don't mind pimping out his tank (I know, I know... everyone says that )

I just need to add things over time so I'm trying to get a priority list. Thermostat is definitely ASAP, I don't want to burn the sweetie. That one you linked looks like it would do the job, ChaosAffect. I'll do a little more research too, and take more recommendations.

[BHReptiles]

First thing's first, please don't plug in your UTH! Those get hot enough to burn your snake. Just order the thermostat TODAY and pay for quicker shipping.

Now that the issue of safety with a lack of thermostat has been taken care of, you need to actually purchase the thermostat. The one from amazon works moderately well. It gets the job done, but it's not the best. I have a Herpstat 2 (you would need only an Herpstat 1 or an Intro) and I LOVE it. I cannot say anything bad about it. Temps stay exact, there's an alarm if it gets too high/too low, and it's an overall amazing product. Your snake will be fine with no heat until you can get your thermostat unless you keep your rooms less than 75*. Then I would suggest you buy a lamp dimmer and a heat lamp as a backup until your thermostat cam came on. The other option is to use a lamp dimmer to control the UTH until your thermostat comes in. This is very, very important.

As for the humid hide, you can offer one if you want. Use it as an additional hide (not your cold and hot hides). Make sure the hides are all identical so your snake will choose thermoregulating over the favorite hide. I usually don't worry about humidity too much until they are in shed. Then humidity needs to be 60%+. There are multiple threads on here about how to achieve that with a tank. Just be warned: it will be a pain to keep those temps.

If you really want to do what's best for your baby, you might consider a cage like a T8 from Animal Plastics. Those kinds of tanks (any brand of those tanks, really) keep humidity and heat pretty well and it won't be such a nightmare for you.

As for feeding, you can offer a live mouse any time. I'd try to feed live for a couple of feedings before you switch over to frozen.

[kc261]

Your first priority should be getting the temperatures right. I have no personal experience with the Hydrofarm t-stat, but I've seen lots of recommendations for it lately, so I guess it is a fairly good product. A t-stat is so much easier to use than a dimmer switch, which has to be readjusted any time the room temperatures changes (change of season, etc), so I really suggest you order a t-stat right away.

I would not worry about feeding the snake until you have the temperatures properly regulated. BPs often will refuse food if they don't feel secure, and improper temps are one thing that can cause this. Also, the warmth helps them digest and if the snake isn't warm enough it can lead to the food not getting digested properly which can lead to a regurge. You really don't want that. As long as the snake is healthy and not badly underweight, waiting a few more days to eat won't hurt it.