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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran Slowcountry Balls's Avatar
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    Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    So this past season was my first season of breeding. I built my own incubator and used vermiculite as my substrate. I had 9 clutches laid and the only 2 eggs that failed to hatch were because of a twisted umbilical chord and a bad egg (I cut it open after it started to turn colors and it was all egg white, without veins and a yolk, I should've candled it first). I had 2 clutches near the end that almost had too much water, had to squeeze out water at one point because the eggs were getting translucent. This year I am thinking about going with the substrateless method. Here is the set up that I am thinking about.

    6 quart Sterilite Tub



    Add in 3 lengths of 3/4 inch diameter PVC pipe



    Add in perlite to the top of the PVC pipe



    Add in the light diffuser



    Add in water to just below the top of the perlie



    I would then use just the lid (no plastic cling wrap or glass, that's what I did last year) and possibly use plastic clothes pins to keep the eggs from moving around. Any thoughts or comments would be welcomed.

  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran Capray's Avatar
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    I think that looks really great! I want to know what other's techniques are for the lids of the egg tubs. Cling wrap? Lid? What do you use?
    What do you think works best?
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  4. #3
    BPnet Veteran Slowcountry Balls's Avatar
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    Re: Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    As I said, last year I just used the Sterilite lid. I opened the tubs once a week to change out the air and it seemed to go well. Every once in a while I would need to add water to the vermiculite, but not too often.

  5. #4
    BPnet Lifer snakesRkewl's Avatar
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    Not enough perlite for my liking.
    If you cut those sticks to the right length, melt the ends and stick them to the grating, you can get more height so you can add more perlite.

    My tub set up is so easy it's kind of boring, but it works 100% of the time.

    1 1/2 inches of perlite
    2 pieces of egg crate(light diffuser)
    2 tiny holes per long side of the tub up towards the top(I use locking lid tubs, no press n seal)
    add bottled water until it touches the bottom of the bottom piece of light diffuser
    add eggs and into the inc it goes

    That's it, I never need to lift a lid until the eggs hatch.
    Of course I do open them, but I never need to if I don't want to.
    Jerry Robertson

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  7. #5
    BPnet Veteran Slowcountry Balls's Avatar
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    Re: Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    Quote Originally Posted by snakesRkewl View Post
    Not enough perlite for my liking.
    If you cut those sticks to the right length, melt the ends and stick them to the grating, you can get more height so you can add more perlite.

    My tub set up is so easy it's kind of boring, but it works 100% of the time.

    1 1/2 inches of perlite
    2 pieces of egg crate(light diffuser)
    2 tiny holes per long side of the tub up towards the top(I use locking lid tubs, no press n seal)
    add bottled water until it touches the bottom of the bottom piece of light diffuser
    add eggs and into the inc it goes

    That's it, I never need to lift a lid until the eggs hatch.
    Of course I do open them, but I never need to if I don't want to.
    Thanks for sharing your method. I thought about going taller by using the PVC pipe on end, but last year, I did not catch any of my clutches in time to seperate them, so I was thinking this height would allow for clutches that are stuck together. Why do you go for more perlite? Is there a specific reason, or just your preference?

  8. #6
    BPnet Lifer snakesRkewl's Avatar
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    I go for more perilite because it seems to take that much water to keep the humidity up just right.
    I like the mix to be a little soupy, without the vent holes it's too humid, which is of course why I add the ventilation holes.
    With 1 1/2 inches of perlite and the light diffuser pieces you will have enough room if the eggs are stacked, unless they are ridiculously stacked high.
    I use the two pieces because one piece kept sinking into the perlite, the legs obviously take that problem away, but it also keeps you from adjusting the height.
    Last edited by snakesRkewl; 03-26-2013 at 10:56 PM.
    Jerry Robertson

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  10. #7
    BPnet Veteran Slowcountry Balls's Avatar
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    Re: Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    Quote Originally Posted by snakesRkewl View Post
    I go for more perilite because it seems to take that much water to keep the humidity up just right.
    I like the mix to be a little soupy, without the vent holes it's too humid, which is of course why I add the ventilation holes.
    With 1 1/2 inches of perlite and the light diffuser pieces you will have enough room if the eggs are stacked, unless they are ridiculously stacked high.
    I use the two pieces because one piece kept sinking into the perlite, the legs obviously take that problem away, but it also keeps you from adjusting the height.
    Got you. Thanks for the information.

  11. #8
    BPnet Royalty DooLittle's Avatar
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    Re: Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    I have seen so many different egg tub set ups. I'm trying to figure out exactly how I want to do it when I have eggs this year, too. I'm scared I'll mess it up, since it will be my first time.

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  12. #9
    BPnet Veteran TheSnakeGuy's Avatar
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    Re: Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    This is great info. I wont be looking at eggs for a year or two, but I'll be ready when I am.

    Question: Since you are using a stand for your light diffuser why do you need the media(hatchrite/perlite/vermiculite) at all? Could you simply fill the bottom with 1 1/2" of water with a couple vent holes? Or would that encourage molding?
    Last edited by TheSnakeGuy; 03-26-2013 at 11:05 PM.
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  13. #10
    Reptiles EVERYWHERE! Foschi Exotic Serpents's Avatar
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    Substrateless Egg Tub Set Up

    I just cut pieces of plastic cross-stitch canvas to put underneath the light diffuser grate. This prevents any issue of sinking into the perlite and allows you to add enough water that it almost starts to pool at the top under the grate. You can see in pic #2 that I only have to use about 1 1/2 inches or so of the substrate since I can add so much water to it.





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