Why is my snake not shedding after eyes clear up?

[BallPythonChick]

Okay, I recently got a new "Columbian" Red tail boa. He is over a year old(Born in nov 2011) and I've had him for over 3 weeks. He has never acted aggressive towards me and he's a real sweet heart.
Well His eye's turned blue about a week ago, and they just cleared up 2 or 3 days ago. He isn't as active as he used to , and I'm wondering if that's normal since he should shed any time now.
He didn't eat anything this week, while last week he ate 2 adult mice. (The pet store was only feeding him one mouse a week) He's about 2 1/2 -3 feet long. A little on the skinny side, but I'm trying to put some weight on him. The fourth or third day I had him he pooped.
He used to be a lot more active than he is now. This week when I hold him, he's seemed a lot more grumpy/upset than usual so I put him back because I didn't want to stress him out.

I am using aspen bedding, he has a log in his sterilite bin that he uses as a hide.
Right now his humidity is really high, between 80-90 most of the time (Because he's in shed) and his heat is a little on the hot side (90-100 on hot side, 75-80 on cold side) because when I got him he had mucus in his noes, he has been getting better and the mucus cleared up, but since he's in shed I started seeing a tiny bit of mucus in his noes when he flicks his tounge.

[interloc]

After a snake goes into blue, there is a period that the eyes clean up and it looks like the snake has shed, except that you can't find the shed. This is normal. He should shed in a few days. Also its common for snakes to not eat while in shed. Some will, some won't. It depends on the snake.

Also his hot side is wayyyyy too hot. 90 tops. None of this 100 business. Get it turned down now please. 87-90 got side and 80ish for cold side. He's was probly active because he was too hot and couldn't find a cool place.

Also you mentioned mucus. Do some research on snakes upper respiratory infections. I don't have any experience with them myself, but there are a few members that have battled them and one. It can be very serious so good luck. I hope this helps.

[BallPythonChick]

I think I may be a bit paranoid, I just love this snake and I want him to always be happy.
I'm just mainly concerned about his lack of energy right now, but I think it's because he's about to shed.

[interloc]

Keep an eye and ear out on that mucus. If you see a lot and hear wheezing or clicking while he is breathing, its a RI and needs medical attention fast.

[Evenstar]

Your post has raised a few red flags and I think there are a few questions I can answer for you. I will do my best to help you out. Please keep in mind that no one is here to be critical - this is only intended to help!!

Okay, I recently got a new "Columbian" Red tail boa. He is over a year old(Born in nov 2011) and I've had him for over 3 weeks. He has never acted aggressive towards me and he's a real sweet heart.
Well His eye's turned blue about a week ago, and they just cleared up 2 or 3 days ago. He isn't as active as he used to , and I'm wondering if that's normal since he should shed any time now. Completely normal. They will be much less active because they are getting uncomfortable. And boas seem to take longer than other species in this process once their eyes clear up - it can take some up to a week to shed from this point.

He didn't eat anything this week, while last week he ate 2 adult mice. (The pet store was only feeding him one mouse a week) He's about 2 1/2 -3 feet long. A little on the skinny side, but I'm trying to put some weight on him. The fourth or third day I had him he pooped. First off, it is common for them to skip a meal when they are in shed, so that part is normal. But boas are NOT ball pythons and should not be fed like them. I really doubt your boa is too thin. Can you post a picture so we can see what you mean by this? But boas should be lean. 1 adult mouse is pretty appropriate for a yearling. Please do not over feed your young boa - this is far more detrimental to their overall health than being on the thin side - and overfeeding can also contribute to regurging which can be difficult to stop and is quite harmful.

He used to be a lot more active than he is now. This week when I hold him, he's seemed a lot more grumpy/upset than usual so I put him back because I didn't want to stress him out. Due to impending shed. He is uncomfortable which will make him grumpy. Leave him alone until he's finished his shed.

I am using aspen bedding, he has a log in his sterilite bin that he uses as a hide.
Right now his humidity is really high, between 80-90 most of the time (Because he's in shed) and his heat is a little on the hot side (90-100 on hot side, 75-80 on cold side) because when I got him he had mucus in his noes, he has been getting better and the mucus cleared up, but since he's in shed I started seeing a tiny bit of mucus in his noes when he flicks his tounge. Your temps are too high as has already been noted. I understand that you wanted to bump his temps up because you were worried about the mucus, but that's a bit too far. His hotspot should not be more than 90 and NEVER more than 92. It is not the hotspot that you want to bump up. His normal ambient temp is fine at 75-80, but you want to bump that up to about 82-83 right now to help with a possible RI. I must note this - your temps should not FLUXUATE between 75-80. You need to maintain a steadier temp. Temps should never fluxuate more than a degree or two at the most. More than that is a roller coaster for your snake and can sometimes even be the CAUSE of an RI. Your humidity is also too high - even in shed. Let that go down to 70-ish. Boas are not problem shedders and he should do fine. And too high humidity can also complicate an RI.

I would make these corrections to your heat and humidity then wait until your snake has shed and monitor carefully to see if the mucus continues. If so, a vet trip is in order immediately.

How are you controlling your temps and humidity?? Do you have a thermostat? If so, what kind is it?

As I said before, this is only intended to help you - you obviously care for your snake very much and I, and everyone else here, just want to make sure you have the best experience with your new buddy that you can possibly have. I hope this helps you!

[BallPythonChick]

Your post has raised a few red flags and I think there are a few questions I can answer for you. I will do my best to help you out. Please keep in mind that no one is here to be critical - this is only intended to help!!



I would make these corrections to your heat and humidity then wait until your snake has shed and monitor carefully to see if the mucus continues. If so, a vet trip is in order immediately.

How are you controlling your temps and humidity?? Do you have a thermostat? If so, what kind is it?

As I said before, this is only intended to help you - you obviously care for your snake very much and I, and everyone else here, just want to make sure you have the best experience with your new buddy that you can possibly have. I hope this helps you!

Well He just shed today! Which is good, just a little bit of his tail skin is still attached, so if that doesn't shed of soon, I will soak him a bit within the next week or so.. I will be giving him a mouse tomarrow evening.

I think he's skinny because I can see his back bone, and when I run my finger down it, I can feel each individual bump almost all the way down to his tail. Then again, he is my first boa, so I don't know if this is normal, just the feeling of his back bone worries me.

I am not using a thermostat, Just a heating pad, though I have noticed as of today that he doesn't want to go on the hot side, so tomarrow I will be covering the heating pad with a towel to hopefully cool down the spot.



The last snake I got was a ball python, when I got her she was VERY sick, he neck was sunken in and she was very thin. I took her to the vet and she had coccidia, I forgot the weight she was but it was bad the vet said. He said to ffed her every two days, well three days after the vet appointment she died, and it broke my heart, even though I only had her for a short time I got very close to her. So this put me off ball pythons (Atleast for now) and I researched a whole lot on other kinds of snakes, and I found red tail boas.

I can't get any pictures of him at the moment, but I will surely try soon. He is a Ghost x Salmon and he is very beautiful, just a little sick right now.

If the mucus doesn't go away within a few days, i will take him to the vet.

[The Serpent Merchant]

A thermostat is not optional when using heating pads. Not only are you endangering your snake, but they are also a major fire risk. Unregulated heating pads can and will achieve temperatures of 130+ degrees. Proper heat is essential for taking care of reptiles.

This thread goes over cage heating, and recommends good thermostats in all price ranges. Whatever you do avoid the junk sold in pet stores.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

[Evenstar]

A thermostat is not optional when using heating pads. Not only are you endangering your snake, but they are also a major fire risk. Unregulated heating pads can and will achieve temperatures of 130+ degrees. Proper heat is essential for taking care of reptiles.

This thread goes over cage heating, and recommends good thermostats in all price ranges. Whatever you do avoid the junk sold in pet stores.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

It is absolutely imperative that you get a thermostat. As Aaron said, this is NOT optional. A t-stat should be the first thing you purchase after the cage itself. They do not have to be expensive. The Hydrofarm is a decent one on Amazon and you can pick it up for around $30. http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...arm+thermostat

Even if your boa is thin, feeding him more is not always the best way to put weight on. Boas have much slower metabolisms than BPs and do not handle too-frequent feedings or large prey sizes well. Feed APPROPRIATELY to add weight and your boa will soon do better. Again, pictures will help us help you.

I am glad you will take him to the vet if the mucus doesn't clear up, but please get that t-stat!!!!

[BallPythonChick]

It is absolutely imperative that you get a thermostat. As Aaron said, this is NOT optional. A t-stat should be the first thing you purchase after the cage itself. They do not have to be expensive. The Hydrofarm is a decent one on Amazon and you can pick it up for around $30. http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...arm+thermostat

Even if your boa is thin, feeding him more is not always the best way to put weight on. Boas have much slower metabolisms than BPs and do not handle too-frequent feedings or large prey sizes well. Feed APPROPRIATELY to add weight and your boa will soon do better. Again, pictures will help us help you.

I am glad you will take him to the vet if the mucus doesn't clear up, but please get that t-stat!!!!

Okay thanks, I'm only feeding him one adult mouse a week now. (When I fed him 2 mice, it only happened once )

I will get a Thermostat monday!

[Evenstar]

Good for you! You are on the right track. Keep us posted about that mucus issue. Hopefully, that'll clear up now that he's shed. But let us know....