Rehabbing this guy - where to start?

[TamiLynne]

Hey guys, forgive me if these topics are covered ad naseum elsewhere in the forums.. I'm in the market for a new PC and currently running in the lovely Safe Mode which makes searching tedious and occasionally shuts down the machine. At any rate, I'm attempting to rehab an 8yo male BP and I'd love some help.

This guy was purchased from a reputable breeder as a hatchling and lived his first 5-6 years growing and thriving. He moved (with owner) half a dozen times with no ill effects and (with photo and video evidence) was not long ago a robust tank of a snake and a great feeder on F/T large rats.

About 2 years ago he changed ownership, did quite well for about a year then went on a sudden hunger strike. Things that changed with ownership - he was moved to a bedroom with no photoperiod whatsoever, and also where the windows were kept open at night (in New England.. brrr). The owner continued to (per Google) offer meals every month or so, smaller sizes, different colors, but it sounds like this fellow hasn't eaten in about a year. And he looks it.

This morning I moved him into a 20gal (from his 55gal) aquarium simply for ease of transport and care. Hidebox. Paper substrate. A small lamp to get him acclimated to a photoperiod. Water dish large enough to soak in. Keeping him at 78-80F and covered with a sheet for privacy.

He doesn't have any stuck shed (reported to have shed last about 4 months ago) but has that wrinkled dehydrated appearance. He moves oddly - almost wobbly at times and stretches his neck back at odd angles. Other times he appears normal. He does occasionally open his mouth but generally keeps it shut. At rest his head simply drops like he's just very weak. Minutes after changing enclosures he passed a small amount of urates with a moderate amount of thick, foul smelling liquid that resembled egg yolk. It seemed difficult for him to do so. He hasn't yet gone into the hide box or drank water, but is moving about the enclosure. I think I see gavage feeding in this little guy's future but I've read never to feed a dehydrated or cold animal so we're working on those first. Wondering if I should add anything to his water in case he decides to drink?

Sorry for the lengthy draft but thanks if you've read this far. I think he needs more help than my moderate reptile experience can muster so I need all the assistance I can get. Also, the vets in this area have limited knowledge of reptiles and will likely revert to their textbooks - I'm looking for some real experience here. Thanks so much to anyone who can help!

-Tami*

[DooLittle]

First of all, 80 should be ambient temp, he needs a hot side with temps of 90. It is also very common for ball pythons to go on food strike, and going for a year is not unheard of. If he is cold, he may not eat because he can't digest without proper temps. Get his temps up, make sure he has secure snug hides, and leave him alone. Let him settle in. You may try live food to jump start his interest. Do you have pictures of him? Also, the 50, or 55 what ever it was, is too big for him and not necessary.

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[TamiLynne]

Thanks for the prompt reply!

I've read not to heat up a cold animal too rapidly which is why I chose 80, planning to bump him up. It is slightly warmer under the lamp, but difficult to get a good gradient in this little enclosure. Is it okay to increase temp quickly?

I worry about offering live food with his odd movements, thinking he might be too weak to constrict. Has anyone got experience with this? Also.. how soon should I offer a meal? I'm trying to leave him alone but so paranoid that I'll lose him that I keep peeking.. I have pics but I can't get them to upload around this Safe Mode crap. Compared to a photo of him a year ago, he has lost a ton of weight - also he just looks deflated. The little fat pads behind his head are caved in and he has a "peaked" shape to his body.

[OsirisRa32]

one of the most important things you can do is get a good gradient going...its surprising how a gradient will change a lot of things for a reptile. Make sure its a gradient controlled by a thermostat and at least for my bps I use a under tank heater (UTH) for belly heat....bps really should have belly heat.

it very much sounds like he needs food....ill leave the food advice to someone better versed in snake rescue. BPs are very hardy little guys...I would NOT add anything to water personally...remember 2 hides that are snug...1 on cool side and 1 on hotter side.

[kitedemon]

Correct temps and husbandry and then if it doesn't cause extreme stress soaking 20 min a day every day for a week or more (85-6º water) . This will help resolve the dehydration. Often they will not eat if really dehydrated. I would wait a week after that soaking for feeding. If you are feeding other sooner place something the smells of rat near him and if he shows interest feed, light however a weanling or so just to get it started on something small.

About 8 months ago I had 3 snakes come in all with about what you describe (all housed together it was a mess) anyway after 3 soaks and corrected enclosures (yes 3) they all fed aggressively I wasn't planning on it but all three were out almost instantly with the smell of rat. I offered weanlings that I had injected about 2 ml of drinking water (no chlorine) into them (one ml syringe jammed down the through of the thawed (F/T clearly) rat.

[TamiLynne]

Many thanks again for all the help.

Questions: How do you get a good gradient in a 20gal? If I have the UTH at max and the lamp above which brings my hot spot to around 90, the cool side barely drops to 86. Which is where the water bowl is, so in theory he could cool off in there but it doesn't seem proper. Should I move him back into the 55gal for a more comprehensive gradient or just keep him warm?

Also.. does anyone have a favorite source for rats in New England? My current (healthy) BP is a garbage gut and will eat anything I put near her, so I've been feeding her rats I picked up at a herp show in bulk. This guy's previous owner said he was doing well on F/T large rats from Petco, until his hunger strike when he wouldn't take any size or colors of theirs, even when scented with soiled rodent bedding from the store. I don't think he's ready for anything large so I clearly need to get him some of his own. Or should I plan on offering live first?

Again, a million thanks for the help. He is currently in the middle of the enclosure and seems to be resting, still no interest in the hide or water, but he has assumed a comfortable looking coil as opposed to his prior stretched out awkward looking appearance.

[kitedemon]

What is the ambient air temp?

I think I would reduce the power to the light (or increase the distance) The light will have the most effect on the over all temp UTH basically only heat what is directly above them. You are using a thermostat with the UTH? I hope so. They are not an optional item. The keep the temp of the UTH from going to high if the room temps change. Even with low wattage elements this is critical.

[TamiLynne]

I am using a thermostat ambient air temp is 79 this morning - hot spot 88 and cool side 85. That's after having the lamp off overnight but a blanket over the cage. He's actually moved into the hide on top of the UTH. Going to soak him today. Best temp for soaking? Is tap water ok or should I boil it just in case?