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Thread: Need Help

  1. #1
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    Need Help

    Hey guys! I’m currently trying to upgrade my snake enclosure to meet higher standards. I’m currently housing my ball python in a 40 gallon breeder, and it is definitely one big headache. Especially when you’re like me, and want your animal living in the best possible conditions! The main problems I encounter are maintaining humidity since of the light bulb, and the climate I live in. Also ever since I purchased a temp gun I’ve noticed that the temperatures sometimes aren’t accurate! I would appreciate any positive recommendations on how to upgrade the cage to maintain proper temps would be awesome! Also I’m tight on money, so I can’t go beyond crazy (wish I could).

    My setup consist of
    40 gallon
    45 watt red bulb 24/7
    UTH 24/7
    Rheostat set on low

  2. #2
    BPnet Lifer angllady2's Avatar
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    If you want the truth hon, ditch the tank altogether.

    Tanks are impossible to heat properly, they suck for holding humidity, and will eventually cause baldness due to you tearing your hair out in frustration. Trust me, I know.

    As much as you won't want to hear this, just like I didn't, a plastic tub really is best. They are easy to heat, easy to clean, great for humidity. Of course, they aren't really that nice to look at.

    I spent months trying to keep a couple of tanks as "ideal" habitats, before conceding they were more of a headache than they were worth. Plus, ball pythons make lousy display snakes. If you do everything right, you'll end up staring at an empty tank 99% of the time. Now I know better. I house my ball pythons in sterilite or iris tubs in my homemade rack system. They eat great, shed perfect, grow like weeds, and are breeding for me right now. They are happy, so I am happy.

    Best bet, even if you only have a single snake, is to invest in a nice tub with a locking lid. Get rid of the lamp since you won't need it anymore. Put the tub on the UTH, hooked up to your Rheostat set to keep the hot spot at about 92. You'll need to put a few holes in the ends of the tub to regulate humidity. Start with a few, and add more if needed.

    I know they aren't pretty to look at like a fancy tank is, but for me a happy, healthy snake is way more important than a fancy-schmancy tank the snake could not care less about anyway. If you really like the idea of a display tank, I suggest looking into another species of snake that is semi-arboreal and will make a good display animal. Besides, you can never have too many snakes.

    gale
    Last edited by angllady2; 01-19-2012 at 12:49 AM.
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  4. #3
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    You are absolutely correct. I can’t stand the tank! I was looking into tubs, but don’t know much about them. Could you give me more advice on where to purchase, how to make them escape proof, and what size? I just want the best environment for my snake! I don’t care that it doesn’t look pretty just as long the snake is being properly care for

  5. #4
    BPnet Lifer angllady2's Avatar
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    Well, depending on the size of your snake will determine your tub size. You can find really nice tubs at Wal-Mart, Target, Office Depot, Michael's Crafts, JoAnn Crafts, pretty much everywhere!

    I like mine to have locking lids, so look for that. These have handles on each end that flip up and down and make it very difficult for a snake to escape. Don't get the ones with the simple push on lids, even a baby can escape those.

    You can use the opaque white/clear tubs, or colored, it's up to you. In general, for a snake up to about 500 grams, I use a tub that is 20" long, 10" wide and 7" tall. You can go up from there. My personal pet peeve is I hate the super shallow tubs that are for underbed storage, I know a lot of people use them and that is fine, but for me personally, I think a snake should be able to raise it's head to swallow prey like nature intended. So I go out of my way to find deeper tubs.

    My breeding female are actually in huge tubs for just that reason. They have the same floorspace as the underbed ones, but are 13" tall instead of 6". But again, that is just my personal thing. if you give me an idea of what size your ball is, I can maybe link you some tubs I've looked at or are using, just to give you an idea.

    Gale
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    Okay I know what tubs you’re speaking of, but I looked at the lock tubs once, and oddly enough there was a gap of open space in the middle while locked. My last thing I want is a lose snake!

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    BPnet Lifer angllady2's Avatar
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    That's odd. Might have to do with the size of the tub or brand. I have a set of Iris tubs with grey latches, and trust me they can't open them when latched. Those are my 20X10X7 tubs.

    I do know those mini bungee cords with hooks on each end are great for a little extra insurance with a loose fitting lid.

    Gale
    1.0 Low-white Pied - Yakul | 1.0 Granite het Pied - Nago
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    1.0 Pastel - Koroku | 1.0 Fire - Osa
    0.1 het Pied - Toki | 0.1 het Pied - Mauro
    0.1 Mojave - Kina | 0.1 Blushback Cinnamon - Kuri
    0.1 Fire - Mori | 0.1 Reduced Pinstripe - Sumi
    0.1 Pastel - Yuki | 0.1 Dinker Normal - Akashi
    0.1 Ghana Giant Normal - Tatari | 0.1 Dinker Normal - Kaiya

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  10. #7
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    The thing to remember with tubs in general is they do not hold heat at all. the hot spot is just that a spot the ambient temps in the easiest way are set by the room temp. If you are unable to set the room temp to the mid to high 70s (77-80) tubs can become a night mare to maintain ambient cool end temps. The problem is the limited options to raise the ambient temps of a tub lights kinda work but not well.

    Tanks hold and transfer heat ok. Once glass is warm it tends to saty warm tubs when the heat is turned off (on off t-stat for example) the tub cools very quickly and then heat quickly and often causes a temp spike. Personally I'd look to a better regulatiing system than a rheostat which really only work well in absolutely stable room temps. A proprptional thermostat like a herpstat or VE or helix would leed to much more accurate hot spot temps and if your light system keeps the ambient temp and cool end temp reasonably well you are solved. On off systems can also work with tanks due to the large mass and slow to heat and slow to cool properties of glass, IMO it is not appropriate to use an on off t-stat with direct heat (uth fastened directly on the tub and not on a shelf or something) in a un regulated room temps spikes are far too common and many have experienced spikes of greater than ten degrees.

    Humidity can be solved with a humid hide very easily and cheaply.

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    I looked at Sterilite tubs once, and noticed that while they were locked there was a gap of open space in the middle. I then decided not to go the tub route because I don’t want to lose a snake. Although I’ve seen a lot of people use basic tubs to house their ball pythons. I do want to try tubs, but am afraid of escape!


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    Okay so I went ahead and bought a 20qt sterilite tub from Wal Mart. I tried to use binder clips to seal the middle part to prevent escape, but they didn’t fit to well. Now I’m going to try bungee cords, or traveler belts (?). Also the size of the tub can only fit one hide. Is this okay, since I don’t have a rack system? Also can anyone recommend a good price thermostat. Oh yeah.... would a UTH melt the bottom of the tub, and how well does it stick to plastic????

  14. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Druzy View Post
    Okay so I went ahead and bought a 20qt sterilite tub from Wal Mart. I tried to use binder clips to seal the middle part to prevent escape, but they didn’t fit to well. Now I’m going to try bungee cords, or traveler belts (?). Also the size of the tub can only fit one hide. Is this okay, since I don’t have a rack system? Also can anyone recommend a good price thermostat. Oh yeah.... would a UTH melt the bottom of the tub, and how well does it stick to plastic????
    One hide is fine in a tub. I keep one hide on my hot sides.
    You can buy a $30 hydrofarm thermostat from amazon. And UTHs won't melt the plastic. I've used a few before getting heat tape.

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by satomi325; 01-21-2012 at 02:15 PM.

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