Rack temp

[decensored]

Hey Guys,

I recently bought a pre-made rack. Its heated down the back with 11" flexwatt. I have been playing with the temp trying to get the temp on the back of the bin to read @ around 90 degrees. I have the Thermostat set to 110F!! And the Back of the bin is still reading between 85-88 degrees. I know I should have it a little higher and the snakes still curl up near the back (although they have been thermo-regulating).

I am also concerned because the humidity climbs every time I up the heat. I don't have a saudering iron ATM so I can't add more ventilation to the tubs. I have a fan blowing in the front but I can't have it set to high or the temp in the front drops bellow 75.

I was curious as to what those of you with racks set your thermostats to when the heat is being provided from the back? Is it safe to have the heat set higher once I'm able to re-ventilate?

Thanks

[Simple Man]

I can't say about back heat but that doesn't seem right. I set my Herpstat to 91 degrees and my tape reads 91+/- a degree. The Herpstat is a lot more accurate than what I'm measuring with. Is your room temp really cool? Heat tape can only heat so much. Are your water bowls in the back? The closer your water is to the heat, the higher the humidity.

Regards,

B

[decensored]

The humidity in my apartment is usually around 65% on its own so I'm sure its a contributing factor. One Entire wall of my apartment is glass so it causes a bit of a green house effect (although I keep the windows open to try and equalize the humidity). I keep the water dish in the cool side, as far away from the back heat as I can possibly get it, and I've switched from substrate (Cyprus) to paper. I've set up a dehumidifier to try and counter balance some of the effects in the apartment and I've seemed to get the humidity to drop to 75%. But the back heat on the tub is still reading at between 85-88. I'm using a digital thermometer with a probe that's been suctioned to the bin.. I'm more concerned about the temperature of the heat tape considering its taped to the press-board on the back of the shelving unit/rack.

Thanks.

[EverEvolvingExotics]

If you are only using back heat you should invest in a soldering iron. It costs less than $10, melt some holes in the back on your tubs. This should let more heat in. Where do you have your probe set?

[decensored]

If you are only using back heat you should invest in a soldering iron. It costs less than $10, melt some holes in the back on your tubs. This should let more heat in. Where do you have your probe set?

I have the thermostat probe taped to the flexwatt. For the thermometer, I have teh probe suctioned on the outside of the bin in the back.

[llovelace]

When using back heat, yes you will have to increase temps to reach the desired temp in tubs. My thermostats are set at 95*, what are you using to check your temps?

[decensored]

I'm using a digital thermometer in the back, and a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the front of the tub.

[Ladybugzcrunch]

I have to set my herpstat to 97F to get a 90-94 F hot spot inside the tub but I have belly heat. You will most likely never be happy with the back heat for pythons. They do better with belly heat. Were me, I would either redesign the rack to 3" 10w belly heat or sell that rack to someone with corns and use the money to buy a belly heat rack. In the mean time, you can melt holes in tubs with lots of things - hot sharp metal object works fine. I personally use a drill or dremel with 1/8 bit to make my holes. Bins never cracked and holes look clean as opposed to all melty looking. I would not set my thermostat any higher than you are going. Actually, I would never set my thermostat to a temperature that would burn me or anything else. Just seems too risky as a fire or burn hazard. Your tubs should only condensate when the snake relieves itself or when it is eating a warm prey item. My tubs also condensate when the snakes push their water bowls to the hot spot but not for any other reason.

[SHROP]

i use 3" tape underneath each tub and my heat is higher than the temp in the tub, however i have my rack built into a closet so opening the door will adjust the temp compared to leaving it closed or almost shut all the way. I also keep the a/c CRANKED in my house around 70-75. so having the cool ambient temp i have to offset by upping the heattape temp.

[decensored]

I have to set my herpstat to 97F to get a 90-94 F hot spot inside the tub but I have belly heat. You will most likely never be happy with the back heat for pythons. They do better with belly heat. Were me, I would either redesign the rack to 3" 10w belly heat or sell that rack to someone with corns and use the money to buy a belly heat rack. In the mean time, you can melt holes in tubs with lots of things - hot sharp metal object works fine. I personally use a drill or dremel with 1/8 bit to make my holes. Bins never cracked and holes look clean as opposed to all melty looking. I would not set my thermostat any higher than you are going. Actually, I would never set my thermostat to a temperature that would burn me or anything else. Just seems too risky as a fire or burn hazard. Your tubs should only condensate when the snake relieves itself or when it is eating a warm prey item. My tubs also condensate when the snakes push their water bowls to the hot spot but not for any other reason.

Even at 110F I can still touch it without it being too hot. I can leave my hand on it and it doesn't burn me so I'm not worried about the animal being burned. There's no condensation on the bins. The only time the bin condensates is when my big male sheds and he relieves himself while he does it.

Thanks.