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Another Feeding Topic, Last resort?
Hey guys, I recently received a CB baby ball python around late February. He shed the day I got him and hasnt since nor has he eaten any of the frozen pinkies I have tried to offer him since. Now before I even got the ball I researched them and how to properly set up a enclosure, temps, etc(mostly lurking here). I also heard they are picky eaters, but mine just refuses to take food. The snake itself doesnt appear sickly at all, as he is lively and seems to love being handled. At first I thought it normal as I read during the colder months some males go without eating, but now he is starting to appear to be getting thinner. I really could use some help.
My stats:
20 Gallon long
2 hides, one on warm side one on cool
Warm side has a heat matt, set to 90F. Air temp is in the 80s
Large water bowl in Middle
Cool side is in the 70s with about 55% humidty
Substrate is Aspen snake bedding.
Been offering him frozen pinkies and small furries with long tongs, shows no interest at all. Tried feeding him in his enclosure as well as outside it in a small enclosure.
I cant think of anything else but to try live, sorry for the long post. Could use some input as this is my first bp.
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How are you measuring your temps? In the 70s and in the 80s isn't very accurate. Hotside needs to be 89-91ish. Cold side shouldn't be lower than 80-81 degrees. You shouldn't be handling the snake either at this point. Snakes don't love handling, especially young ones. That stresses baby ball pythons out quite a bit. You should leave the snake alone for a week or two after fixing your temps and then try live small mice in his enclosure. Just my $.02....
Regards,
B
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Simple Man For This Useful Post:
Alexandra V (05-12-2011),dragonboy4578 (05-12-2011)
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Re: Another Feeding Topic, Last resort?
 Originally Posted by Simple Man
How are you measuring your temps? In the 70s and in the 80s isn't very accurate. Hotside needs to be 89-91ish. Cold side shouldn't be lower than 80-81 degrees. You shouldn't be handling the snake either at this point. Snakes don't love handling, especially young ones. That stresses baby ball pythons out quite a bit. You should leave the snake alone for a week or two after fixing your temps and then try live small mice in his enclosure. Just my $.02....
Regards,
B
I agree with this.....
“I drink a great deal. I sleep a little, and I smoke cigar after cigar. That is why I am in two-hundred-percent form.” – Winston Churchill
1.0 '10 piebald, 0.1 '10 het piebald, 01 '07 het. Piebald
0.1 '10 lesser, 0.1 '10 albino, 1.0 '11 Black Pastel het. Albino, 0.1 '11 het. Albino, 0.1 '08 het. Albino, 0.1 '10 het. Albino
0.1 '09 woma, 1.0 '10 Pewter, 0.1 '11 Lesser Bee
0.1 '10 Super Cinnamon Woma, 0.1 '10 Mojave Spider, 0.1 '11 mojave, 0.1 Super Chocolate
0.1 '10 Pastel Yellowbelly, 1.0 '11 Pastel Yellowbelly
1.1 '10 yellowbelly, 0.2 '10 normal
0.1 '08 Cinnamon, '08 Normal, 0.1 '10 Orange Ghost, 0.1 Black eyed lucy possible yellowbelly
1.0 '11 Cinnamon Enchi, 1.0 '11 pastave
0.1 '10 coral albino Boa, '10 1.0 Sunglow boa, 11 0.1 Motley boa
0.1 '11 Central American hypo boa, 1.0 Central American Motley
0.1 '11+T Albino Blood, 0.1 '11 poss het. +T Albino Blood
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20 gallons for a baby is often too big, I would downsize him to a 6 quarts tub with aspen as substrate, a 6 inches plastic flower pot saucer for hide, 78-80 on the cool side and 88-90 on the warm side.
I would let him acclimate for a week and then offer a LIVE hopper mice.
Your BP not eating IS likely husbandry related and a few changes will help solve this issue.
Also NO handling until your BP eats with consistency.
Make sure to measure your temps with a DIGITAL thermometer and make sure the temps do no fluctuate too much.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Stewart_Reptiles For This Useful Post:
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Registered User
Baby BP's RARELY take f/t......most have to be started on live....I use rat pups. ALso, I agree with the husbandry points the others raised, as well as the NO handling. The 20L is probably way too big.
"There is no place I know to compare with pure imagination....
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Babies aren't going to eat pinkies. They are literally my assist feed option only for fresh non start hatchlings. Even so I generally assist with a mouse hopper. I agree with all the advice above so I won't repeat. But pinkies are really never a Food option unless you have an extremely small hatchling(generally twins fall into this) or a non starter hatchling. Also babied have no idea what ft is. I'm sure if you tried a live small mouse or a weaned/hopper mouse hed grab it right up. LeAve him completely alone and offer another meal in 5 days. Also Get a digital scale and a notebook. Take weights and write all of his feedings, refusals,sheds,defections, odd behavior etc. This will be the difference between the baby getting to deaths door and you being able to do something about it in a safe amount of time. If you ever have to go to the vet bring it with you and your vet has a complete history.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Homegrownscales For This Useful Post:
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Re: Another Feeding Topic, Last resort?
Hi,
 Originally Posted by Sammy412
Baby BP's RARELY take f/t......most have to be started on live....I use rat pups. ALso, I agree with the husbandry points the others raised, as well as the NO handling. The 20L is probably way too big.
Just wanted to give some input on this.
Feeding live is certainly an easier way to start them but I have never fed live in my life - and that includes starting baby BP's.
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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