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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    Rack problems...

    So I finally got my two racks. One is a 15 tub, 16 quart tub 3x5 with 3 rows of 3 inch flexwatt for back heat on a herpstat thermostat. The other is a 6 tub, 41 quart tub with one row of flexwatt for back heat (I was told that this setup would be sufficient) on a herpstat nd.

    The 15 tub rack is set at 120 deg. at the tape and still too cold at 78 on the bottom row up to 86 at the top row. However, the herpstat doesnt show that its goin up to 120. It keeps fluctuating from 104-106. The tape at the top row is 120 and the tape at the probe shows 106, so I know that the unit is working. WTF!!! How come the tubs dont get hot enough? Im so pissed right now.

    But thats not all!

    Tonight I setup the 6 tub and attempted to set the temp for the herpstat but I couldnt. The unit kept on beeping and showing me an error code #2. So I dont even know if the 6 tub rack with 3 inch flexwatt will work properly.

    These are my first racks and was looking forward to not having to pile tanks all over the house but now Im thinking that at least with tanks each unit setup fairly easily.

    Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

  2. #2
    Registered User SiQ''s Avatar
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    what are the current temps reading in the tubs?

    Normal : 0.2 - Mini , Big Mama
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  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran Wh00h0069's Avatar
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    Re: Rack problems...

    First off, the back heat on the 41 quart tubs is not going to be enough unless you are in an extremely warm room. You will most likely need to convert it over to belly heat. I use 1 foot of 12" flexwatt on my 41 quart tubs.

    Error code 2 means the sensor has shorted. You can find the info here: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/produc...tnd_manual.pdf
    Eddie Strong, Jr.

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    AKA Reptiles (03-23-2011)

  5. #4
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    What is the room temp? Racks are very efficient space wise but very in efficient heat wise and basically must be in a room that is at least 80º to hold 80/90 temps. The second thing I am not completely sure about but I believe that the max temp of flexwatt heat tape is recommended to be no hotter than 100ºF I could be wrong I don't recall where I read that but I think it was with the small book that came when I ordered my flexwatt.

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    AKA Reptiles (03-23-2011)

  7. #5
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    In an uncontrolled / unstable room back heat means terrible heat loss = not has efficient has belly heat and in the long run likely more costly.
    Deborah Stewart


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    AKA Reptiles (03-23-2011)

  9. #6
    BPnet Senior Member spitzu's Avatar
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    Re: Rack problems...

    I didn't get perfect temps until I started heating the room to 80 and left the ceiling fan on low 24/7. And as was already said, back heat sucks.

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    AKA Reptiles (03-23-2011)

  11. #7
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: Rack problems...

    The room doesnt have anyway of stabalizing the room temp. Old house with one gas floor heater. It fluctuates from 70 to 80 degrees and sometimes lower in the winter. I am guessing that I would need to go with 11" for the 41 qt rack and change to belly heat and take the 3" under for belly heat as well. Does anyone now of operating range for the different widths of flexwat?

  12. #8
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: Rack problems...

    Quote Originally Posted by SiQ' View Post
    what are the current temps reading in the tubs?
    Top tubs read at 83 Degrees and the bottom reads at 76 degrees. Thats the warmest spot.

  13. #9
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    Re: Rack problems...

    Ok...so i just ordered 20 feet of 11" for belly heat and a bunch of other stuff totaling almost $300 from the bean farm. I guess its true what they say, if you want something done right...try and try again until it works!

  14. #10
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    I also am in a drafty old place I found (you'll hate this part) but to solve the temp issues I needed to add 17" to the front as well as 4 inch at the back. The 17 doesn't get much over 86ºF so it will not ever over heat the snakes even if the t-stat fails. I needed to run the top and second down on one probe The middle ones on another and the lower on a third. The fourth controls all the front cool sides. Herpstat pro is what I am using 4' for the hot side and the 17 on the cool side.

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