How long is it ok for a hatchling not to eat?

[NathanV]

its been 19 days since hatching and one of the babies still hasnt eaten, is this normal, and are spiders/bees weaker eaters cuz of wobble?

thank you
-nate

[m00kfu]

Depends on how big it was when it hatched. I tend to offer rat fuzzies for the first month, and if they haven't started eating by that point I'll try ASF's to get them started.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

its been 19 days since hatching and one of the babies still hasnt eaten, is this normal, and are spiders/bees weaker eaters cuz of wobble?

thank you
-nate

Depends

Since it hatched 19 days ago it would have put the first shed about 5 days ago so it's not abnormal that is has not taken a meal yet.

Some eat right after their first shed some might take 1, 2 or 3 weeks.

If the hatchling absorb his yolk properly, has a good body weight and is healthy I usually don't start to worry before 3 to 4 weeks after their first shed (but than again I know what to look for)

Is it in a 6 quart tub?
Have you left it completely alone?
Have you offered live hopper?
How often have you offered?
Do you have this hatchling on aspen bedding?
What are your temps?

[snakesRkewl]

are spiders/bees weaker eaters cuz of wobble?

No, I am more careful with them feeding live because mine tend to be butt munchers if the rat isn't pointing head towards the snakes mouth.
Butt munchers also tend to roll up the rat wrong so I also watch for that more than my other snakes.

I wouldn't call them weak eaters though, my spiderbelly is a asf eater only and my regular male spider will eat anything and any way you offer it.

[Lolo76]

My hatchlings have been out for over 3 weeks, and one still hasn't eaten... I'm not worried, since he/she still has nice body weight & energy, so I figure it's just not ready quite yet. I think you'll know when it's time to worry, because the snake will appear underweight (ribs showing, loose/wrinkly skin, etc). What type of prey have you been offering?

[Lolo76]

Do you have this hatchling on aspen bedding?

Sorry to hijack - but does the bedding make a difference in getting them to eat? I can't use aspen due to allergies, and have mine on paper towels... I could use Carefresh, if you think that would help with the non-feeder.

[anatess]

My bee hatchlings are feeding machines. Gotta drop the rat quick else they grab it out of your hand!

I have a normal hatchling that didn't absorb all the yolk - was only 47 grams. He refused everything including our attempts at assist feeding at 4 weeks since hatch (he didn't shed until 3 weeks after hatch) until he got to 39 grams and I said enough of this. He was barely moving by this point. Seems like he doesn't have the energy to lift his head. So, we force fed. He survived that, so we assist fed again 5 days later and he took that one. We assist fed again today and he took that one too. I weighed him before we fed him today and he was back to 47 grams and he is nippy again. So, hopefully he makes it.

[NathanV]

thanks guys! she is with her brother bee, he has had 2 meals at this point. 6 quart, rarely open the cage up and offered her both rat pinks and mouse hoppers, bare bottom rack (no substrate)

[Stewart_Reptiles]

thanks guys! she is with her brother bee, he has had 2 meals at this point. 6 quart, rarely open the cage up and offered her both rat pinks and mouse hoppers, bare bottom rack (no substrate)

Ok it needs to be alone (if meant they were house together) and definitely switch to Aspen for bedding.

Once you make the change wait a week before offering live food in her enclosure.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Sorry to hijack - but does the bedding make a difference in getting them to eat? I can't use aspen due to allergies, and have mine on paper towels... I could use Carefresh, if you think that would help with the non-feeder.

Aspen is known to make wonders fir those who are harder to switch, mainly because of the added security it offers allowing the hatchling to bury in it.