Yea Yea, 'Another' cage/setup question

[Bishop]

Hi Forum,

So I’ve browsed multiple forums and done many “google searches” to figure out the many details to owning a Ball Python. Well I finally lived up to all my research and went to my local reptile specialist and found me a new baby Ball Python. Yet I find myself coming up with yet more heating and housing questions.

Yes, I know there is a ton of other threads out there with all the details of my questions, but many tend to contradict each other a lot of the time too.. So, being new to owning a snake (owned iguanas when I was younger) I want to make sure that I have everything setup properly for my new baby….

Well here goes…
I have a 20 gal tank (yea I know it’s a little large for a baby) with a screened top
75 watt infrared bulb w/ holder
Zoo-Med UTH for a 20 gal tank (6x8 I believe)
Zoo-Med Rheostat (w/ 2 outlets)
24 hr timer (30 min minimum intervals)
Digital thermometer/ hygrometer w/ probe under warm hide
Floating thermometer on cool side floor
Analogue hygrometer
Large wood branch going across entire tank
Cardboard box hide on cool side
Half-log hide on warm side (1/3 of the UTH is under this)
Water bowl
And I am using aspen shavings

Now the questions:
1. The temp is about 80-85 on the cool side, and I try to keep it about 90 on the warm side. Are these temps correct?

2. What would be the best way as far as setting up a minimal hassle environment (i.e. not having to adjust all the time)?

3. Can Ball Pythons see infrared light or not? Some say yes others no. When I turn on his IR light when it is dark he will jump.. Which leads me to think he can see it so should his IR light be turned off for sure at night?

4. Also he is in a spare bedroom, which is somewhat an office with 2 computers (adding to temps in the room), where light does come thru the window, so is it necessary to “PROVIDE” a day/night cycle for him? Or is the window enough?

5. He is staying in his cool hide only. At first I only had the half log and he stayed there. Once I added the cool hide (cardboard), he has remained there. I know he may just not be adjusted yet, so just wondering if I’m over worrying.

He has eaten one meal already so I know that is a good thing. He has eaten both live and F/T before, so I am hoping he maintains his appetite!

I am aware that this information may be available if I were searching, but reading alone would not be enough assurance since it is very contradictory. Much thanks in advance in any help and suggestions. Just want to make sure that everything is where it should so he has a long healthy life. 

Thanks!

Bishop

[Beto510]

You need to have two identical hides... The half log hide is not sufficient they need to feel secure and havin to entrances robs them of security

[monk90222]

I agree, try to get 2 hides that cover him on all sides. To get them for cheap use the plastic flower pot bases with a hole drilled on the top.
Also, you might want to cover some of that screen top inorder to keep some of the humidity in.
I keep my temps 82-84 on the cool side and 91-93 on the warm side.

Your snake would choose security over thermal regulation and that is no good. 2 closed in hides are a must.

[Bishop]

I have the half log up aginst the glass and the glass is covered where it mets together. Once i realized that he prefered the smaller opening of the cardboard box i added a piece of cardboard with a smal hole cut out the bottom area, making it somewhat similar to the other hide on the cool side.

thanks for the tip on covering the screen. i do cover the screen with a towel, and moisten it every morning, to maintain the humidity of 50-60.

much thanks on the tips!

[monk90222]

No problem...post some pics!!!

[seeya205]

Snakes cannot see the infared light! He probaly jumped because of the noise! A day/night light cycle is not mandatory specially since you natural daylight! I have a 6 week old ball and I got him a half log to start but when I removed it and got too identical tight hides, he ate better was not stressed! You can tell because he sleeps more and does not wonder around all night! Just use another carboard box on the warm side and he might start sleeping there!

[CoolioTiffany]

1- Yes your temps are correct and are suitable for a Ball python.

2- I recommend getting a thermostat. They are great at controlling the temps and keeping them at a stable temp. If you do get a thermostat, I recommend setting it at 92F.

3- No, they cannot see the infrared light in the enclosure. I know your snake may jump, but it may have gotten startled once you turned it on.

4- Providing a day and night cicle for him would be best. When the light outside shine in through my window, normally it shines through all of the snake tanks. I suggest keeping the light on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. When it's off for 12 hours, I recommend turning on the UTH.

5- Provide two identical hides as stated in posts before. Half log hides do not make them feel that secure, so buying one of those rock formation hides would do well but make sure it does not have two enterances. You can also create your own hides by using a plastic container, dog/cat dishes, or plant pots. Any of those do just fine, but when creating the enterance make sure it's big enough just so the snake can fit through so it isn't a large opening.

[monk90222]

Any of those do just fine, but when creating the enterance make sure it's big enough just so the snake can fit through so it isn't a large opening.

Nope! Make sure the snake has enough room in the opening so that it can double back and not get stuck. Snakes have died by getting stuck!

[CoolioTiffany]

Nope! Make sure the snake has enough room in the opening so that it can double back and not get stuck. Snakes have died by getting stuck!

Totally forgot about that lol. Ya it could happen from a snake getting stuck. Sorry about that, it totally slipped outta my mind :]

[Bishop]

the "DP" hide was just added to see if he might be interested since its similar and smaller.