Heating pad unstuck

[Armiyana]

Also attached is the warped pad itself.

Oh yikes!
Forget what I said earlier. That needs to go.
If it was just the adhesive that failed, it's fine. Something else may have happened to cause that warp and this is now a fire hazard or severe burn risk

[Bogertophis]

Oh yikes!
Forget what I said earlier. That needs to go.
If it was just the adhesive that failed, it's fine. Something else may have happened to cause that warp and this is now a fire hazard or severe burn risk

Oh yes, thank you for catching that! This is why it helps to have multiple eyes on these things. I totally agree- a heat pad that has deformed (apparently from over-heating!) is no longer safe- replace it A.S.A.P.- don't just wait for it to fail.

I've used UTH safely "forever" without issue (mine is "Flex-Watt", not the same) but any time you see damage it's best not to use it as it can fail at any time. I had one Flex-watt section get bent when I moved & after that it no longer worked- that bend was enough to cause an open circuit. But most of my Flex-watt is "ancient" because I'm careful- moving can just be chaos though, & Flex-Watt is very thin, no room for error.

[Armiyana]

The person I purchased a rack from second hand had the flexiwatt burn a hole in the bottom tub. It's one with a recessed space for the tape too. So it was a bit odd for that to go.

Defects can happen in any product. I remember King of DIY had an issue with an underwater heater that boiled his stingrays years ago too.

I guess this is a good reminder to check a few of my flexi watt lengths later. I have one rack that does have the tubs on the tape. I try and check that one every 2-3 months for scuffs and damage. The others I usually just temp check from time to time. Maybe it's a good inspection time.

[Bogertophis]

The person I purchased a rack from second hand had the flexiwatt burn a hole in the bottom tub. It's one with a recessed space for the tape too. So it was a bit odd for that to go.

Defects can happen in any product. I remember King of DIY had an issue with an underwater heater that boiled his stingrays years ago too.

I guess this is a good reminder to check a few of my flexi watt lengths later. I have one rack that does have the tubs on the tape. I try and check that one every 2-3 months for scuffs and damage. The others I usually just temp check from time to time. Maybe it's a good inspection time.

Oh for sure, any product can fail- especially if it suffers a bit of accidental abuse. Was it the actual Flex-watt brand, or one of the look-alikes? With all these products in use for so many years, it's a wonder there aren't more known mishaps.

[Armiyana]

Yeah. It had the flex-watt branding when I gutted it. At least it's reliable enough that failures are very few and far between when run in the safer ways. Like running in a channel for no rub damage and correctly monitored with thermostats.

[Malum Argenteum]

Defects can happen in any product. I remember King of DIY had an issue with an underwater heater that boiled his stingrays years ago too.

Aquarium heaters are nightmares, since they're a 'price point' oriented product. The only truly reliable solution is an Apex controller running a pair of titanium heating elements, though that's $400 at the low end.

[nvmycj]

Oh yes, thank you for catching that! This is why it helps to have multiple eyes on these things. I totally agree- a heat pad that has deformed (apparently from over-heating!) is no longer safe- replace it A.S.A.P.- don't just wait for it to fail.

I've used UTH safely "forever" without issue (mine is "Flex-Watt", not the same) but any time you see damage it's best not to use it as it can fail at any time. I had one Flex-watt section get bent when I moved & after that it no longer worked- that bend was enough to cause an open circuit. But most of my Flex-watt is "ancient" because I'm careful- moving can just be chaos though, & Flex-Watt is very thin, no room for error.

I'm really not sure why I haven't received an email about the replies from you guys? All of a sudden I've stopped getting these alerts. I figured it was the holiday and nobody wanted to talk to me! LOL! So I logged in and here we are.

Such valuable info from so many of you!

Bogertophis,... is this what you were talking about? https://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-t...ape-connected/ I assume these are also placed on the OUTSIDE underneath the tank.

All these stories about UTH's failing makes me pucker a bit. I guess I'll be checking mine weekly, just to CYA!

[Bogertophis]

I'm really not sure why I haven't received an email about the replies from you guys? All of a sudden I've stopped getting these alerts. I figured it was the holiday and nobody wanted to talk to me! LOL! So I logged in and here we are.

Such valuable info from so many of you!

Bogertophis,... is this what you were talking about? https://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-t...ape-connected/ I assume these are also placed on the OUTSIDE underneath the tank.

All these stories about UTH's failing makes me pucker a bit. I guess I'll be checking mine weekly, just to CYA!

Yes- Flex-watt is also placed OUTSIDE, underneath the tank. And the probe is sandwiched between the glass & the UTH, then the t-stat adjusted when the INSIDE temp. is correct as measured directly over the bare glass, without substrate (as could happen when snakes get pushy & burrow down).

That product from reptile-basics is not "Flex-watt" brand but is made similar- I cannot speak for that which I've never tried. I think you can get the brand Flex-watt from "The Bean Farm" (online), if you wish. But do be advised (at least in my experience- & mine is all old "original" Flex-watt) that Flex-watt doesn't get quite as hot as some other UTH -like the one you had that tried a meltdown.

The kinds of snakes I keep (not BPs currently) do not require as much heat as BPs do either, so I prefer Flex-watt. I've had nothing but long-term (decades!) of safe operation using it. Safety when using any UTH depends on controlling it correctly- with a t-stat (or rheostat, where applicable). That generally prevents problems, as does correct installation- leaving the small air-gap as directed, & don't let a tank or enclosure sit directly on a wire- as over time, that can cause a failure too. And don't over-insulate OVER any UTH with deep substrate.

Yeah, I wondered why you stopped talking to us? Welcome back...

[Malum Argenteum]

That product from reptile-basics is not "Flex-watt" brand but is made similar- I cannot speak for that which I've never tried. I think you can get the brand Flex-watt from "The Bean Farm" (online), if you wish. But do be advised (at least in my experience- & mine is all old "original" Flex-watt) that Flex-watt doesn't get quite as hot as some other UTH -like the one you had that tried a meltdown.

I've used both, and I slightly prefer Flexwatt, both the connectors and the feel of the tape.

As for which gets hotter, it varies according to the width. For example, the 3" tape from FW is available in either 6w per foot or 10w per foot; 3" from THG is 4w per foot. But the 6" FW is 9w per foot and THG is 12w per foot.

The 12" THG in the link above is 23w per foot; the equivalent FW (11") is 20w per foot. A ZooMed 8 x 12 is 16w, which figures out to 24w per foot of 12" heat tape. So yes, FW would not get as hot (and if it doesn't get hot enough, it isn't being used correctly).

Using a Herpstat enables setting a maximum output limit on the tape, so for example you could run 10w per foot tape at a maximum of 5w per foot simply by limiting the output to 50% (or similarly for any heat pad). Using a thermostat with safety features (max setting, over and under temp alarms) is a really good idea, and worth the investment ten times over.

[nvmycj]

Yes- Flex-watt is also placed OUTSIDE, underneath the tank. And the probe is sandwiched between the glass & the UTH, then the t-stat adjusted when the INSIDE temp. is correct as measured directly over the bare glass, without substrate (as could happen when snakes get pushy & burrow down).

That product from reptile-basics is not "Flex-watt" brand but is made similar- I cannot speak for that which I've never tried. I think you can get the brand Flex-watt from "The Bean Farm" (online), if you wish. But do be advised (at least in my experience- & mine is all old "original" Flex-watt) that Flex-watt doesn't get quite as hot as some other UTH -like the one you had that tried a meltdown.

The kinds of snakes I keep (not BPs currently) do not require as much heat as BPs do either, so I prefer Flex-watt. I've had nothing but long-term (decades!) of safe operation using it. Safety when using any UTH depends on controlling it correctly- with a t-stat (or rheostat, where applicable). That generally prevents problems, as does correct installation- leaving the small air-gap as directed, & don't let a tank or enclosure sit directly on a wire- as over time, that can cause a failure too. And don't over-insulate OVER any UTH with deep substrate.

Yeah, I wondered why you stopped talking to us? Welcome back...

OK,… I have my temperature probe in between the glass and my heating pad on the outside of the tank. My heat mat thermostat is hooked up as well.

Do you think the temperature probe wiring is safe with the heating mat?