BP won’t eat pls help!

[Slinke]

New BP owner

ive had Slinke for about a month now
he was about 2 months when I got him

he was being feed live but was told I could try f/t
our first feeding went perfect in his enclosure

he hasn’t eaten again in 3 weeks I’ve tried 4x and no luck
I’ve tried tonight in a separate container and he attacked it 3x but more like he was afraid rather then strike to eat

i defrost in cold water, warm water and under hot water for a min or 2
ive done the blow dryer once and it def made him poke out of his hide and turn right back around after he saw what it was
he has nooo interest
I’ve left in in the enclosure over night and still I wake up to it either in the same spot or moved a bit 🙄
I feed with tongs and I hang it by the tail or by the neck and “walk” it around and in front of him

some info
Slinke is a Purple Passion BP
enclosure is 30 gal for now
hot side 88-90
cool side 79-84
65-80 humidity
2 hides
water Bowl
vines to climb and some leaf clutter


im worried- I was told to try live after 5 weeks if he doesn’t eat but I’m trying to avoid that for obvious reasons

I have noticed his belly to be on the pinker side but his eyes are not gray yet to be signs of shedding
and Ihave noticed a bit of a wobble

he hasn’t been handled for a few days
but We were handling him daily except for days after he ate and day of feedings
and he’s always a gentlemen when being handled


any suggestions?

[Armiyana]

Stop handling him entirely. It's much more important than this little guy eats. Handling comes later.

I would personally size down to a small tub. 30 gallons is much too large for a baby of that size. Either that or you need to add a lot more clutter to things or if the hides are big and don't squish around him a bit, put some moss in there.

The pink belly is usually the early sign for sheds. But what is the hot spot temp? The hot side itself is a bit warm for my liking. I generally keep mine at 85 ambient with a hot spot of 88. If the hot spot itself is too hot, that could be a burn. (Most likely the shedding though)

The wobble should not happening with a purple passion. There isn't a spider complex gene involved. If it's just a little bit when offering the food or handling, it could be just excitement or nervousness. They do sometimes shake a bit when they're young.
How bad does this wobble present itself? If it seems severe, something like malnutrition, extreme temps or parasites may be more of a concern.

I can't think of much else at the moment so hopefully someone else jumps in and is able to give some advice as well.

[Bogertophis]

Big red flag: ..." We were handling him daily except for days after he ate and day of feedings..."

Stop handling this snake & don't handle him until after he's eating regularly without refusals (unless in shed, then refusing food is normal) preferably for not less than 3 meals, since he's already so stressed. Keep in mind that snakes rely on their instincts to survive, even when they're captive-bred, & the only thing that picks up a snake in the wild is a predator that's about to eat him! So while you may think he's been a "gentleman" when being handled, the reality is that he is just passively putting up with it. He needs to be a snake first...he needs to eat or he won't survive. So put his needs first. And even after he eats again, back off on so much handling- gradually increase it, & also, don't handle for a few days before he's due to eat.

Also, feed him only where he lives- not in a separate container. First off, the handling stresses a snake. They also don't feel as brave in another container- they need to feel safe & secure to focus on making a kill- (even if you feed f/t, in his mind, he's in danger from injury from his prey). When using a side container to feed, you're more likely to get bit, either before (when the snake is hungry) or afterwards, because snakes stay in "feed mode" for hours or even days after a meal- ie. ready to bite again.
There is NO reason to feed in a different location, & every reason NOT to. Snakes that feel stressed & unfocused don't eat. And snakes that don't eat suffer poor health.

[Slinke]

When we got him breeders were telling us to handle him daily except for 48 hrs after eating so in my mind I believed it was part of health and feeling safe around us , bc I don’t take him out play - I hold him 5-10 min and put him back …. But I will definitely stop all together !

excuse me his hot side is 84-88 and his hot spot is 88-90
and I’ve touched the ground of the inside of his enclosure and it’s never hot so I can definitely say not a burn thank goodness

The pets store told me to experiment with feeding in a container so I gave it a shot tonight but will def keep up with the enclosure


As far as the wobble I see his head shake when it is during feed and I find him when he’s around the tank to do a “backflip” constantly and then he’ll fall off the vine

[Slinke]

When we got him for the breeders we were told to handle every for 5-10 min except 48 hours after feeding so we took that as necessary to the snake - we never take him out for giggles - I just thought that’s what we had to do
so I will definitely stop as all I’m worried about is his health and want to do what’s right 100%

And I got advice from a local pet store to experiment with a separate container to give it a shot but I’ll def stick to the enclosure … which was also the advice of the breeders as well to feed in a separate container but I thought it made more sense to feed in the tank enclosure to limit stress and avoid being hit during transfer
i was just desperate to see if it’d work

thank you For your advice!

when do u think I should try again?

[Bogertophis]

When we got him for the breeders we were told to handle every for 5-10 min except 48 hours after feeding so we took that as necessary to the snake - we never take him out for giggles - I just thought that’s what we had to do
so I will definitely stop as all I’m worried about is his health and want to do what’s right 100%

And I got advice from a local pet store to experiment with a separate container to give it a shot but I’ll def stick to the enclosure … which was also the advice of the breeders as well to feed in a separate container but I thought it made more sense to feed in the tank enclosure to limit stress and avoid being hit during transfer
i was just desperate to see if it’d work

thank you For your advice!

when do u think I should try again?

Don't try to feed "too often"- not more than every 5-7 days, otherwise that just stresses a snake also. So if you just tried, then give it about 6 days before you try again, with no handling.

I've never heard of any knowledgeable "breeder" that advocates so much handling, & I've been at this (snake-keeping) for a very long time. It sounds like they were advocating "5-10 min." to keep it short, but not daily. All I can think of is that they sensed you wanted a pet that could be handled frequently & they really wanted to make a sale?

Pet stores are typically a great source of misinformation- they're there to sell stuff, but experts, they seldom are. Some pet stores get their snakes to eat by putting them in a paper bag or other container, & leaving them overnight. But pet stores have no privacy for shy snakes, which is why that works sometimes. It's just not the best way.

The other reason a container might be suggested is to avoid having your snake get a mouth-full of substrate, but that's an easy fix- feed on or over a "plate" of some kind. (* over a box lid, etc- but never over cloth or a paper towel- snakes can catch their teeth on those & swallow them- if that happens, they'll need surgery because they cannot digest such things- that can kill them.

And just remember, animals in pet stores are not their personal pets- sadly, they're often just "merchandise". And while some staff members may mean well or have more experience than others, it's very hard for a new snake-keeper to tell which ones are safe to believe. I've heard plenty of nonsense in pet stores. What's really important is how & when you offer food to your snake- more about that later.

[Homebody]

...any suggestions?

The only thing I'll add is to encourage you to relax. I feeding issue is not urgent. Snakes are specifically designed to go a long time without eating. So, you have time to figure this out.

[Zincubus]

I also only skimmed through your lengthy opening post .. anyways try this method one day .

I leave the frozen mouse/ rat to defrost for hours , very near to the snake’s viv .

Then wait until evening and feed a very warm mouse/rat in dim/low light .

In my experience, It’s the details that make the difference in this method . Royals are nocturnal so feed evenings.. they use their heat pits and that’s where the dim light and WARM mouse come into play . The rodent smell is vital as well so I NEVER soak them in water .. some people have success by wiping hamster /rodent bedding all over the mouse/rat so that shows their smell can make a difference.

So down to the details ..

In dim light , wait until the snake is well settled UNDER a hide then give the mouse/rat’s head a really good blast with the hairdryer and INSTANTLY dangle it in front of the hide entrance .. they normally grab it instantly but as long as they keep showing interest you just keep reheating and dangling until they take it . You have to offer it INSTANTLY whilst it’s still warm to let their heat pits work.

Good luck. !


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[GoingPostal]

excuse me his hot side is 84-88 and hisyour hot spot is 88-90
and I’ve touched the ground of the inside of his enclosure and it’s never hot so I can definitely say not a burn thank goodness

How are you taking temps? Humans run 98 degrees so anything under that isn't going to feel hot but might well be far too warm for a snake. Use a temp gun to check and I would back it down a couple degrees personally. Ambient temps should be low 80s, with a hot spot of 86 or so. I'd also recommend dropping down to a smaller tub enclosure, yours is likely really big and open for a baby.

[Zincubus]

A photo of the layout would be useful


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