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  1. #1
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Aquarium Solution

    The Lucylid fix!

    The aquarium mod the solves most tank troubles!

    The problem is screen lids do not hold humidly well. The average tank despite being a cost effective home for a ball python is a poor shape. Tall and narrow, the solution to both problems is to lay the tank on its side. One side becomes the bottom and bottom becomes the back.

    This leaves a gaping hole in the front. I designed a 'plug' to fit into that space. The construction is quite simple really.


    Hosted on Fotki


    Materials and tools:
    Drill
    Drill bits (1/8, 1/4, 5/16 in my case new and sharp)
    Sanding block (6 inches) and 120 grit sand paper
    Pop rivet gun and a selection of rivets
    Plexiglass the size of the tank opening
    Fish tank of your choose
    3 Micro cam locks (like these size 'A' http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41419,41455 )
    3 Hinges (like these size 'a' http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41241,41250 )
    Straight edge and measurement implement (a ruler did double duty for me)
    Pen
    hot melt glue gun and some glue sticks
    Exacto knife

    1. Measure the inside of the tank opening one the plastic surround. Be accurate! get as close as you can. From the 'height' (on the upright tank that would be width) subtract 3 inches. I decided on 1/8 plexiglas over heavier it is a bit flexible but I was only using a standard 15 gal tank.

    The snake that will call this home is a small female that was a twin and was born with one eye and very small she is doing well now.

    I had the plexi cut for me by the store I purchased it from. They used a scrap and squared it up and cut it on a table saw. Table saws work as long as the blade is sharp. I have used a exacto knife and straight edge as well. Just score the surface with a few passes (go easy you can't cut through in one pass don't try someone usually goes wrong.) and then just bend away from the cut and it will snap along the line. Use the straight edge as a guide.

    2. Check the fit both bits should fit in but not bind too much. If they do sand the sedge with a mechanical sander (hold the plexus tight to a table with a small bit hanging over the edge) Or use a sanding board and some elbow grease (That is my preference)

    3. Lay the 2 sections together aligned edge to edge on a flat scrap or work bench (you will need to drill holes so it will go though the plexi) Mark the position of the hinges 2 isn't firm enough but three works great. I marked about an inch from the edge and then the centre. Make sure they are square and even with each other! Mark and drill the correct size holes.


    Hosted on Fotki


    4. Mark and drill the ventilation holes I used 1/4 inch use your own discretion for sizes and spacing. You will need a very sharp drill bit (new is best) met for wood and metal. I tried a brad point and it was not good. Go slow take it easy or it will split! If you are in a humid area you will need more if it is very dry less. You know your area, I don't do what you think is best, you can always add more or cover some. If you are planning on running thermostat probes or temp cords now is the time to mark and drill for those too. Alternatively you can notch the edge to take a wire. measure for the micro cam locks, the length of the arm from the edge. The easiest way is remove the arm from the lock and lay it flat on the plexi, mark the hole and then measure the size of the locks shaft and drill the correct size hole again about 2 inches from each edge and the centre.


    Hosted on Fotki


    5. I used a pop rivet gun to fasten the hinges, most mechanical fasteners will work but pop rivets are easy and work well. I used 1/8 holes and correct sized rivets. Remove plastic film, and fasten the hinges, edge, edge, then centre. Keep the 2 parts of plexi tight together otherwise it will be too big and bind. If you don't do this order it can get slightly out of alignment and make disassembly difficult.

    Hosted on Fotki

    6. Check the fit again and locks! adjust as needed. Check all the holes, make sure there is nothing sharp if it is use a sharp exacto blade point to scrape the edge down a bit. (place in the hole and gently turn). Check the pop rivets too if they are sharp a blob of hot melt glue will cover them over.

    7. This is a bit tricky, preheat a hot melt glue gun. Mark the bottom and 3 inches up the side with a pen. Take a hair drier and heat the lower lip of the tank with it. Add a bead of hot melt and very quickly place the plug in place on the glue line add an extra bead on the outside. Hold in place until the glue cools. Re-check to make sure it closes and the locks work then you are done.

    Hosted on Fotki


    Hosted on Fotki

    8. I'd add something on what was the bottom (so you can't see through the tank) and perhaps the sides as well. I am going to use photographs of grassy bits slightly out of focus for thisAdd your preferred heat source (heat lamps won't work well so uth or flexwatt Radiant panels will likely take up too much room unless you have a huge tank.

    Be careful you are using a side as a bottom. The smaller tanks have sides the same thickness as the bottom, Bigger tanks have thicker bottoms, The side is intended to hold the weight of water (1gal of water is about 10 pounds) but be careful of adding too much weight. I have added plastic bumpers to the new bottom to hold it off the table it will be used on so the heat source doesn't get too hot. Again use your own discretion.

    This is my idea and a quick description of how I made mine. If you choose to make your own I hope that you will read this look at what I have done and adapt it to your own needs. These are not precise plans so please don't fault me if something goes wrongly for you mine works and has been running 1 week at this point with no problems the humidity and temps are good (please use some sort of controller for your heat source!!!) With no misting other than an initial time after set up.

    I feel that Tubs work well, but for those of us whom have small collections and want to observe the snakes or at least the 'landscaped' enclosure and don't have a budget that supports a custom purpose build enclosure, that this variation on a traditional tank will solve some of the tank issues the are often encountered.

    Alex

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  3. #2
    BPnet Veteran gardenfiend138's Avatar
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    Re: Aquarium Solution

    Very cool idea! I've been thinking of flipping my tanks on their sides for a while now, but was always worried about nose rubbing on the screen and substrate falling out/ getting caught in the opening area. This seems to solve both of these issues, i will have to get back to you if I decide to go through with these plans!

  4. #3
    BPnet Veteran MarkieJ's Avatar
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    Re: Aquarium Solution

    That's a really cool idea! You should get a patent for it. I can see one of the big reptile companies designing something similar.

  5. #4
    BPnet Veteran rdoyle's Avatar
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    Do you have a photo of the whole thing I would love it see it all

  6. #5
    BPnet Senior Member el8ch's Avatar
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    Re: Aquarium Solution

    Looks great and good workmanship!

    What was the total supply cost for this project?
    Lucas (LC)| Snake Hunter Exotics | Like Us on Facebook | @TheSnakeHunter

    Lots of snakes, a bunch of horses and an array of other animals small and large!

  7. #6
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone! I am glad you like the solution it is a fairly simple one I am actually surprised no one has built one commercially yet the problem is how to fasten it to the tank you can't really say just hot glue it...

    It wasn't very costly, I actually didn't keep track well. I got the plexiglas free as it was just a scrap but they charged me 10$ to cut it. About 40$ for hardware I had one hinge left from a second project. If you didn't want the door to come off that would cut the cost down by 10 or more. The take apart hinges are very expensive compared to regular, 4$ each. I had drill bits and a most of the bits I needed (bits, sand paper, rivets) The locks are also all the same key I am sure that one lock and 2 turning latches would work but the time to build the other latches for me wasn't worth the 16$ for the 2 extra locks. I didn't try to save money and spent about 50 I am sure if you have more time than I do you could have done it cheaper. I had thought of a 'stitch hinge' that is basically free. I'll draw it out soon I have not tried it but am sure it will work.

    Hosted on Fotki

    No animal yet she is still in the rack, just making sure everything is alright and stable still week two and every thing seems fine. The best part is the humidity is still at 60%. Just to head off the that gauge isn't accurate I tested it and 5 others the exact same (Cigar humidor gauges) and they are all the exact same and right where they should be during a 'salt test' My partner she is adding decorations still so that isn't finished and we have yet to pick out images for the sides and back but that is in the works too. Oh and Yes there is only one hide Lucy the snake has 2 others but they are still in the rack so one (at least) will move with her.

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  9. #7
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Oh if you notice one hinge isn't straight, don't do that! It makes it very hard to take the door off and back on again...

  10. #8
    BPnet Veteran rdoyle's Avatar
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    it looks great

  11. #9
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Hosted on Fotki

    finished with lucy. She seems to be settled eating and poking about every now and again.

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  13. #10
    Registered User Slyther83's Avatar
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    Very cool idea and well executed
    0.1 werewolf killer retic
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    0.1 tiger white phase retic
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    3 Sentec cages @ 96x30x22.5

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