Mite Off!!!

[MDB]

So I was at petco today and was shopping around when I decided to pick up a bottle of mite off. None of my ball pythons have mites except for one that I seperated from the rest, Im not even sure she has mites just being safe since she is a wild caught, I got her in on a trade a couple months back. She hasnt eaten for me since I have gotten her, she has been to the vet and is perfectly healthy the vet said. But I decided just to be safe I want to treat all of my ball pythons. How do I go about doing this? I read the directions on the back but they dont seem to thorough. Thanks in advance

[Kesslers Kreatures]

Ive never had mites but from everything ive read on this site i would say PAM would be a better bet. It seems to be the choice for most people on here.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Mite off is a waste of money if you want to treat your snakes for mites (and I would recommend to treat your entire collection not just one snake) you need PAM - Provent-A-Mite http://www.pro-products.com/miteandtemp.html (this will treat all stages of development of mites)

Now also keep in mind that Wild Caught BP does not = mites, since mites are not found in Africa (Ticks are however). So if your BP has mites this means that the mites come from the source where you purchased your BP.

[Kesslers Kreatures]

Mite off is a waste of money if you want to treat your snakes for mites (and I would recommend to treat your entire collection not just one snake) you need PAM - Provent-A-Mite http://www.pro-products.com/miteandtemp.html (this will treat all stages of development of mites)

Now also keep in mind that Wild Caught BP does not = mites, since mites are not found in Africa (Ticks are however). So if your BP has mites this means that the mites come from the source where you purchased your BP.

Thanks, I didnt know the website

[MDB]

Mite off is a waste of money if you want to treat your snakes for mites (and I would recommend to treat your entire collection not just one snake) you need PAM - Provent-A-Mite http://www.pro-products.com/miteandtemp.html (this will treat all stages of development of mites)

Now also keep in mind that Wild Caught BP does not = mites, since mites are not found in Africa (Ticks are however). So if your BP has mites this means that the mites come from the source where you purchased your BP.

Oh I didnt think of that but I guess that I do not have any mites. I was actualy thinking that was maybe why my female wc want eat. Is it okay to force feed her she is 1050grams?

[littleindiangirl]

WC animals are notorious for not eating... good luck with that.

[kdclark0112]

youre best bet for eating is going to be ASF's. Not a great thing but they will usually eat them quickly. In my experience it can be a pain to switch them back to regular pet store rats. Good luck hamsters and gerbils are also another way to go. Best of luck....

[sg1trogdor]

Mite off is a waste of time. Get yourself some pam.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Is it okay to force feed her she is 1050grams?

Force feeding should only be done as a last resort and only if the animal’s health is declining.

Make sure your husbandry is optimum and leave her alone. (NO HANDLING)

Your best bet will likely be ASF however since she is a Wild Caught it might take time. (very long time) but as long as the animal is healthy and not loosing too much weight she will be ok.

[rabernet]

WC's need to be kept entirely differently than a young CH or a ball python that's been in captivity all its life.

If she's not already, get her set up in a tub with DEEP cypress and bury a hide on each end in the cypress, leaving an entrance down INTO the hides.

Put her in a dark area (a closet is preferable) and leave her alone. Don't hold her, don't do anything, except to quickly check and freshen the water - as quietly and without disturbing her as possible.

After about three weeks, try an ASF or a very small adult rat and drop it in and leave her alone for about an hour, then check back. If she hasn't eaten, remove the prey and wait another two weeks.

Your best bet will be to wait until she's lurking at the entrance of her hide to offer her food.

WC's are often in shock from the dramatic change in their life. The Barkers describe it as LONHS - Lights On, No-one's Home Syndrome with many WC's. Basically, they need time to adjust, go though depression and decide if they want to live.

Force feeding a WC should be an absolute LAST result. It can be MONTHS before she'll eat.

If you don't feel comfortable with this responsibility, there are some members here who have experience in getting WC's that wouldn't eat for anyone else to eat - after months of re-habilitation that we can put you in touch with.