Temp/humidity troubleshooting

[Myenia]

I've got two babies- my first two snakes, and I wanted to ask a few questions that I've been having trouble with. I've got a hatchling ball python and a year old RTB that I adopted.

Heating- My ball python is in a 10 gallon tank. My dilemma is this: I've got an UTH and a 50 watt bulb. With both, it is WAY too hot (102 at the bottom), but with just the UTH it's a little too cool on the cool side (78-80). I've of course taken the light down...but I'm a bit concerned that the UTH isn't enough sometimes. Am I ok or is there something else I should be doing?

Humidity- I'm just north of the DFW area, and this summer we've had excessive heat and no rain... the humidity is TERRIBLE. I spray several times a day, and often lay wet towels over part of the top of the tanks. It may go up to the 50's%...for half an hour tops. I've just noticed a dent in my RTB's eye, so I need some other suggestions. I've seen products sold for aiding in shedding...would this help during this dry time?

Random Question- I've heard that sometimes if you give your BP gerbils, they won't go back to normal food, because they like them so much. I work at a pet store, so we get adoption gerbils brought in all the time (gerbils I can take home for free). Has anyone experienced this?

Thanks guys!

[kc261]

You should be able to solve the heating problem with the use of a t-stat or at least a rheostat (like a light dimmer), and it is not a good idea to be using unregulated heat.

Humidity. It sounds like you have screen-top tanks. You'll need to cover most of the screen to keep the humidity in. You'll find it helps keep heat in too. Any number of things can be used to do this; one of the most popular is to use a few layers of aluminum foil held in place with duct tape. You can also increase humidity with a water bowl with a larger surface area and/or putting the water close to the hot end of the tank.

You might consider switching to plastic tubs. Heat & humidity is usually easier to control in those than in glass.

I do not have any experience with it, it I have often heard it said that BPs can imprint on their food, and then refuse to take any other. This can apparently happen with any prey type. For example, I've read about some people who have BPs that they want to eat rats but the snakes only want mice. So offering any type of prey to your BP that you can't be sure of a steady and reasonably priced supply is taking a risk.

EDIT: In the first paragraph, I meant to say that if you need more detailed help on the heating issue, please ask!

[Myenia]

Oh, thanks! I've read those solutions with the aluminum foil...I just figured the wet towel worked similarily but also added to humidity. I do have the wet towels over most of the screen tops. So you would suggest using both UTH and the light, but have the light dimmed to almost nothing?

As for humidity...I do have bowls larger than the sizes of the snakes under (and over, in my BP's tank) the heat.

I'm hoping that after this extremely dry summer, well get bombarded with rain in the fall. I'm praying so, at least.

[kc261]

Oh, thanks! I've read those solutions with the aluminum foil...I just figured the wet towel worked similarily but also added to humidity. I do have the wet towels over most of the screen tops.

The wet towel should work similarly, as long as you have it such that it is really sealing up most of the cover and not allowing too much air exchange. Otherwise, while you may be adding humidity, you are still allowing too much to escape. Also it requires you to keep on top of it to make sure it is wet, and to change it frequently so it isn't breeding bacteria and other nasties. The aluminum foil & duct tape solution is a little simpler, and apparently works quite well.

Personally, I use a piece of styrofoam insulation that just happened to be laying around the house, so the price was right, but it looks horrible sitting on top of the tank. There are lots of options that will work.

So you would suggest using both UTH and the light, but have the light dimmed to almost nothing?

I suggest that both the light and the UTH are on something to control their heat output. Thermostats are best but rheostats (dimmers) can work pretty well, as long as the room where the snake is doesn't fluctuate in temperature a lot. Once you get them hooked up to something to control their output, you should be able to play around with it a bit and find what works for you to get the right temps.

On/off type thermostats don't work very well with lights, as you'll end up with a flashing light. Proportional t-stats are more expensive. So a good compromise in this situation to avoid it getting really costly is to get the UTH on a t-stat, and the light on a dimmer.

Another possibility is to ditch the light all together, as they can suck up your humidity. What I have on my glass tank is 2 UTHs, a higher powered one on the hot side of the tank, and a lower powered one on the cool side. Plus I have lots of insulation on 3 sides of the tank (I actually had all 4 sides covered during the winter), to prevent the heat from escaping, as well as the styrofoam covering most of the top.

It takes a lot of tweaking and sometimes a decent chunk of money by the time you buy all the equipment, but you should eventually be able to have a glass tank that is very stable with the correct temps & humidity.