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Thread: Not eating??

  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran Hellix2494's Avatar
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    Not eating??

    OK I am pretty sure that my male patel is on a hunger strike.

    Eversince I took him in to have his prolaps removed he hasn't eaten. I would say close to 4-5 weeks now. I have monitered his weight and he has only lost like 50g.

    I left a live rat is his cage over night and it was still there in the morning. (I left some rat food in the tank for the rat) I know they can go for 4+ months with out food. Just want to make sure that I shouldn't be getting woried yet.

    His activity still seems normal and he is still breeding fine.
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  2. #2
    Steel Magnolia rabernet's Avatar
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    Re: Not eating??

    There are many reasons why your snake may not be eating as outlined here:

    http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=59

    WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?
    In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than one meal (sometimes they won't want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

    Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

    Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

    Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

    Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

    Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

    Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

    Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

    Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

    Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

    Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

    Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.
    Figure out what's wrong with your set-up and work towards fixing it.

    Leaving a live rat in with your snake overnight will just stress him out more. If you haven't already, remove the rat and don't offer food again for another 7 days.

  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran Hellix2494's Avatar
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    Re: Not eating??

    yeah I removed the rat. He has been one of my more finiky eaters too.

    and I have been wating 7 days between offering. the only thing that I see that I don't have in my tub is a hide. I am pretty sure the temps are good but I will check them again. to make sure they are good. I use natural light to light my tubs and the rack is by a window so they get the normal cycle of day light/night time light.

    I think I have my Helix set to 107* with the temp on the hot side around 87* - 90* but I will have to double check it agian.

    He is in mating season and there are 4 females in the tubs above and below him.
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  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran drugaria's Avatar
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    Re: Not eating??

    A hide is very critical for a BP. It is a must, not an optional item and I think you might have answered your own question : "He is in mating season and there are 4 females in the tubs above and below him"

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