Just some questions

[twiztid]

I imagine it's been talked/asked about numerous times, but when it comes to the behavior of both the green tree python and the emerald tree boa, what seems to be the main difference or the seperating elements? I've read up on both of these snakes for some time now, and I hope I'm not subject to the "do your research" speeches. I figure that based on the knowledge and experience of other interested people, I could set the grounds for a potentially-soon purchase lol anyways, thanks

[CraigC]

Wish I could give you an answer from experience, but I have never kept any GTP. I have nothing to base a comparrison on. I do know that there are probably more keepers of GTPs than emeralds. There are a lot of myths still going around about emeralds that simply aren't true. Personally, I became infatuated with emeralds when I saw my first one in the flesh, back in '77. No one at that time knew how to properly care for them, so the "attitude", "aggressiveness", "regurgitation prone", "bird eater" and "delicate" myths probably sprang from the initial learning curve associated with keeping them. It wasn't until the mid to late '80s that proper husbandry developed through trial and error, but unfortunately the myths still persist to this day. I wasn't able to realize my dream of keeping them until '98 when we got our first baby.

Craig

[twiztid]

I totally know what you mean about becoming infatuated with them, I had an opportunity to handle one and witness one first hand and it was awesome haha totally unlike any 30+ pound boa around your shoulders I'll tell ya that. Everyone talks about the difficulties involved in the care of an etb or gtp, but I think if you're dedicated and truly willing to put forth an effort, it'd be a lot like anything else. I was leaning more in favor of an Emerald Tree Boa anyways, but is there anything you can tell me that might make me think twice or that'll keep my hopes high? Thanks so much for your input though

[CraigC]

Depends on whether handling is at the top of your list. IMO, handling should be kept to a minimum. From some of my other threads, you can get the gist of how often and the conditions under which we handle our emeralds.

Probably the most put forth concern that I have seen from people, or you could say the most prohibitive reason against getting an emerald, is the size of the front teeth. I won't sugar coat it, yes they can and will bite. However there are proper ways to handle them that will greatly reduce the possibility of a bite. I have been bitten several times, mostly from neonates, but also by sub-adults and one adult. Other than the neonates, the other bites were from stupidity on my part. Complacency was the culprit in each case, because I made a mistake in a situation where I should have thought before I acted.

BTW, neonates bite first and ask questions later, until they settle down and realize that the huge, ugly beast brings them food! They usually lose the biting after a few weeks.

Perhaps, instead of me addressing the pros and cons, you voice your main concerns or what your expectations are for keeping an ETB.

Craig

[twiztid]

Well the handling issue really wasn't a concern, I've learned to accept that I won't be able to walk around the house, make my bed, make something to eat, yatta yatta with one of them lol and the teeth thing doesn't get me goin either, because like I said a 30+ pound boa sinking it's teeth into your hand that smells like rat isn't exactly a walk through the park either. I've heard a lot about the troubles of constipation and regurg, and in one of your posts you said you let them do their business out of their cage - how big would a cage have to be for a full grown etb to not feel cramped up and what not?

I think my biggest issue is the feeding part. I was an idiot when I first started out a few years back with the boas and all, and I never thought much about frozen mice/rats, so I just feed all of my "friends" their share of live rats, rabbits, and all that. I guess that etb and arboreal snakes, being that they hunt from a perch, might be prone to difficulties with live food. Is frozen a must?

Lastly, and not so much of importance, I don't want to buy one from a local pet shop that "can get anything you want if you're willing to pay." I think it's a ripoff and based on the quality of the other animals in the shop, it doesn't seem like the smartest move either. Without the possibility of breeding, and not really caring about the "rarity" or "flawlessness" of their patterns, what are some good price ranges, and some key things to look at for a great pet as compared to a wanted animal for the avid breeder?

I really do appreciate you taking the time to get back at me and share with me some advice you have. Wowzers to the etb in your collection by the way and you've got a knack for takin photo taking too.

[CraigC]

First and foremost, what is available right now are probably imports. Most breeders are still in the "mating" phase of the season. Most won't have anything available until later in the year. If, what I'm hoping was a POS yesterday, the soonest I will see anything would be mid to late July, but this girl has had me going for the last 3 seasons i.e. mating, ovulation, POS and nothing. To say the least, I'm not holding my breath. Last year was a pretty off season for most breeders. Anyway you get the idea of when to start looking for CBB emeralds.

As far as pricing goes, generally it is based on, amount of white, quality of bloodlines and sex. Most CBB babies range from $300.00 to $1500.00 for northerns and $800.00 to the "sky is the limit" on basins. Rumor has it that one once sold for $32K. F2s will command a higher price as well. Rica was the most expensive northern I've ever purchased, $1200.00.

LOL, my wife and I are pretty anal when we sell our babies. The purchaser, if we don't already know them, is going to get the proverbial "50 questions". The other side of that coin is that we will give after the sale advice and support. Most often we reserve "first right of refusal" if the customer ever decides to sell the animal.

Here are some folks that I would recommend:
Alex Mc Vicker (the carnivorous orchid)
Rico Walder (signal herpetoculture) Also, one of the best GTP breeders
Ed Marino (doesn't have a website)
Danny Mendez (urban jungles)

Most of these folks concentrate on Amazon Basin emeralds:
Tony Nicoli (awesome arboreals)
Noe Perez
and there are others, but these folks have a track record of excellence. Oh, yeah, we breed emeralds too. LOL Craig and Karen Clark (gemsoftherainforest.com)

I have never considered feeding an issue with emeralds, most of us, as breeders, try to get them onto f/t hoppers or rat fuzzies before offering them for sale. Live is not the prefered way to feed, but I do have one WC male basin that simply won't take anything else, yet. CBB emeralds are very easy,IMO, to convert to f/t. The golden rule is no more that 3 meals without a bowel movement and they are fed on a 14-21 day schedule for subs and adults.

I'll have to get back to you on caging as I have to head out of town shortly.

Craig

[twiztid]

hey thanks for the websites. I just got done looking at some, and I've got to say you, and others included, do an extraordinary job at this lol I wouldn't be buying an animal for a while as I haven't began to put together a "home" for it or anything.

[CraigC]

If you have looked at our website, you have an idea of our cage sequence. My suggestion for a single adult display is to use the plants suggested and create a microcosym for your animal as an adult. We keep things "Spartan" in order to make sure everyone is healthy. We clean our cages every 2-3 days or as necessary. Having an extravegant display for each animal would not be practicle. The room is environmentally controlled, so each cage doesn't need tremendous, individual attention. This has been our method since we started keeping emeralds.

Craig